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Everything posted by momay4000

  1. Read this over and over b/c it's a superb point......superb.......
  2. momay4000

    for sale : usa Grady White

    My gosh....the boat is immaculate! Has to be the cleanest 1983 boat I’ve ever seen!!! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United
  3. That’s cool! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United
  4. https://www.glerl.noaa.gov/data/dashboard/GLWLD.html This is what you want
  5. You're welcome! I am by no means an expert on this, but you could write 30 pages on just what seeds to plant!! That being said my mantra is to keep things a simple as possible. Also, I didn't mention it above but I HIGHLY recommend buying the Food plot book from QDMA. It is a great guide and talks a lot about looking at your property and determining objectives way before you decide on planning for food plots. Make sure you look at your land topography, drainage, intrusion from neighbors if applicable, travel areas, human foot traffic etc, etc. Also, make sure when you decide on a location, that you look at your own personal travel roads/trails. This is important b/c if you have one of your main trails next to a plot (extremely common b/c that's how you get your equipment to the plot), you are going to be bumping deer out of the plot on the way to your hunting spot. Although they will still use the plot, they will do it at night well after dark. Also, I've seen it many times when guys will plant a food plot in an area that was previously the best bedding area on their property! They cut the grasses and shrubs b/c it's a good plot location and devoid of large trees (i.e they do not have to cut trees and pull stumps in a wooded area of their property for plot preparation) only to disrupt one of their only or best bedding/cover areas on their land. Sure the deer will hit the plot, but when it's grazed over, those deer are gone in the offseason b/c they have lost their bedding area. Now, on to the seeds...... What to plant depends on your objectives (kill plot vs. true destination plot as a spring/summer/fall food source, protein for antler growth, vs. a winter food source to keep deer on your property year round, etc, etc). Although there are 50,000 different ways to do this, my recommendation would be to start with a perennial such as chicory/clover or an annual such as brassicas. Many seed companies sell these blends, Imperial Clover, Biologics, Pennington, etc. etc. but you can also get seed blends from Agway. I think the Imperial Clover or Fusion is a great clover seed for early planting that will take you into the cold season as well. It's a great food source and pretty easy to grow, but needs some TLC like mowing once it really gets established. One of the LOU members posted pics this year of his clover plot and it was truly spectacular to see his pre and post mowing pics!! Probably the most lush I've ever seen. Clover may also take a season or to to "get going" but it's relatively hardy and can tolerate different growing conditions. The first year you plant it'll grow for sure,but it's likely to take a year or two to get super lush and thick. depending on how much rain you get during the growing season. It is often incorporated into mixtures of other seeds such as cereal rye, chicory, wheat. You can also plant brassica mixtures later in the spring/early summer for a good food source later in fall and especially winter. It's an annual and will need to be replanted yearly, but the deer will absolutely tear up the turnips and radishes under ground after the first snow fall. They will graze freely on the greens throughout the summer as well, so it can be frustrating b/c if you have high grazing pressure as they will eat all the greens before the turnips/radishes can get established. Eventually the tubers get sweet and the deer absolutely love them later in the season! I have also experimented with planting cereal rye first thing in the spring as more of a green fertilizer and re-discing it after a month of growth before it gets too high and then planting brassicas seeds after that. This is cereal rye and NOT rye grass. The deer eat the rye too so it provides a good food source and a green fertilizer to the plot. Other folks will plant corn, soybeans, peas, rape, etc etc but I just don't have my own personal experience with these seeds. Hopefully some other folks can chime in on their experience. Keep it simple and have fun. Good luck, Chris
  6. Here's what I would recommend: 1. Start by getting a soil sample after you have cleared an area and know where you are going to plot: Whitetail Institute has the best soil testing kit IMO 2. Mow the area where you want to plant if there is really tall grasses and weeds: use a lawnmower with the blade raised or field mower. If you have a loader on your tractor, you can also float the bucket to remove vegetation. sticks, etc. 3. Spray the future food plot area with Roundup or any weed killer containing Glyphosphate. You can use a sprayer attachment for an ATV, tractor or a backpack type (PITA b/c it takes quite a bit of time c/w a larger electric sprayer) 4. Wait 10 to 14 days for the first round of native weeds to die and then spread your lime and fertilizer as recommended by your soil sample. The soil test will tell you how much lime and fertilizer to add per acre. If you can get crushed lime from a farmer or lime truck delivered by the ton it's much cheaper than bags of lime pellets. 5. Disk the lime and fertilizer into the soil. Look online at Everything Attachments and get yourself a good, angle iron HEAVY DUTY disc harrow. They have awesome ones for a three point hitch 6. Smooth the area accordingly so that you can plant in a few weeks. You can either drag a fence section to do this and break up the large chunks or buy a cultipacker. These are pretty awesome 7. After you disc and smooth the top of the plot, wait about 10-14 days and you will see the weed seeds that you dug up after discing start to germinate. Now you will need to apply Roundup AGAIN. DO NOT DISC again 8. Wait 7-10 days for the second round of weeds to die off and then apply your seed. Apply the seed with a spreader, either a Scott's one like you use for grass seed or a hand help one. After you spread the seeds, the real key is to also get the seed into contact with the soil. You can either go the cheap way and use a lawn roller or buy a cultipacker like I mentioned above. In addition to pressing the seeds into the soil, it also creates tiny grooves for water collection and drainage. Try and time this step if it's going to rain in a few days, otherwise the birds will come in and feast on your seed if it's going to be awhile until it rains. 9. Watch it grow baby!! Good luck!! Chris
  7. cool stuff....I'd say that deer could be 6.5 year old based on three years of stellar mass and what I would estimate at 3.5 to 4.5 in 2015!!! Awesome deer......I think we miss judge age all the time in the field and IMO deer are much older than we think b/c we base age on rack size too often Case in point is your deer here that remains an eight point for three straight years Thanks for sharing Chris
  8. Expansion is dependent on bullet velocity. There's no comparison of a muzzle bullet and let's say a .270. Not sure how far your shot was, but at 200 yards, the muzzleloader's velocity is probably in the 1200-1400 fps range
  9. Love it!! WTG Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  10. Thanks Gil.....9h.....paradise Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  11. Another great season in the books. Saw a tremendous number of bucks this year and was able to harvest one in the top five on my property along with a nice doe on the gun opener. Archery season was incredible after seeing one of the biggest deer in the flesh that I’ve ever seen in the woods. I shot lots of videos of doe and smaller guys beneath me which is always exciting. It was a year of wind wind and more wind, a nice classic November rut, and afternoon hunts that outpaced the mornings. It was great following along with everyone this year and learning things every day. Next up will be hanging more stands, planning a small hinge cut, food plot clearing and a new roof on my cabin porch. Merry Christmas to all of the LOU family Chris Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  12. Great deer. You're blessed to be able to hunt that many days in a row. Savor every minute as it's one less year to hunt until it's all over Thanks for sharing
  13. You're missing the entire point. Put some blaze orange on....no excuses
  14. Great post - I'm in the same boat. It's funny how the drive goes down the tubes once you harvest a buck. That being said, it's a ton of fun to still get on stand and hunt with your camera and take some cool pics and video Good luck late season, Chris
  15. Great buck. Thanks for taking the time moderating this thread, too. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app
  16. Good points on the hunter density issue. The key is to hunt to your own objectives the best you can. I hunt very similarly to you - I have high standards to harvest a mature buck early on, but my standards do decline as the season winds down as my family values venison in the freezer. Will I harvest a spike, a young doe or a button buck - absolutely not, but a 1.5 year old six point on the last weekend of the season may be in my crosshairs. I am 100% against more DEC regs with antler restrictions simply because we are over regulated as it is. Do whatever you can to make your property the haven for deer by increasing cover, food, and as I mentioned low impact hunting and it can really make an incredible difference Good luck this year
  17. I disagree - I think you can do a lot to manage your land even if you have a small chunk. Is it easier to manage a 200 acre piece vs a 40 acre piece? Absolutely. However, with proper techniques at creating cover, food sources, and strategies of low impact hunting, you can still create a gold mine on even a small piece of land
  18. OK - yes I agree with that (full moon and they're out at 2 AM feeding or avoiding daytime predation) but I feel that it has zero effect on the rut.
  19. Not by me....I think moon phases and their effect on deer movement is a garbage man-made myth. Just my opinion Chris
  20. Great job Tomy - great buck and beautiful boat! I cannot believe how great the hunting has been so far this year Be safe, Chris
  21. Interestingly I broke off a small hemlock branch four feet above the ground about 20 yards from my stand in one of my shooting lanes. EVERY single deer walking by smelled my scent on the ground and where I touched the branch. Crazy how they can scent everything Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United
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