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Total Chaos

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Everything posted by Total Chaos

  1. Got this pic on my trailcam near Albany NY. And yes I know the time is wrong but the date is correct. Anyway, you can see the similarity with a Wolf and with a Coyote. I posted it on FB as well and the debate is raging on. So which is it? Total Chaos I added another pic!
  2. So much can go wrong and not enough testing to prove either way! Swackers are a flawed head as well. If they don't get thru the other side you'll have a bad blood trail as the blades are full inside the animal before deploying. They may not deflect but they have problems just like the rest. JMO Total Chaos
  3. Nautitroller, I think your theory is flawed. With a Rage the blade that would have opened first (if perpendicular) would have been the blade away from the body. The blades cross thru the head. That said the head would continue into the body until the other blade would contact the hide. By then it would be in far enough to not cause the cam effect. An over the top mechanical for sure would cause the cam effect as it has happened to me long ago with a crappy Rocket broad head. I still believe the Rage contacted bone somewhere. The arrow flopping isn't a concern to me because if it doesn't make it out the other side the blades fold back so there's nothing to hold the arrow in. For the few that I shot that didn't make it thru the arrow was always flopping and ended up flying out thru the air as the deer ran. As I write this I'm still questioning all the possibilities for the lack of penetration. As I push a Rage tipped arrow thru a piece of scrap carpet with just the tip of my finger on the nock I don't see any cam effect happening. Who knows what happened, all we can do is speculate. Well as I try this more the arrow actually wants to turn into a quartering target rather than away. As the blade releases it causes less resistance on the body side of the head and it wants to turn into the body more resembling a broadside hit. Just my observation playing around here in the house. Still thinking and typing. I wonder if 1 blade deployed in flight??? That would definitely cause lack of penetration! I wasn't there but did the arrow possibly contact grass or weeds before impact? Just some thoughts Total Chaos
  4. You said you hit high?? How high? Look at the anatomy of a deer and the spine will be 3" to 4" down from the top of the back. Then take the rage Hypo with a 2" cut, take half of that, 1" and you could hit 5" from the top of the back and still catch the spine and stop the penetration. I shot a doe last year almost straight down. I caught part of the spine and the shoulder blade with my Rage Extreme and the penetration was not great. I was shooting 70lbs and my 500 gr arrow. Amazingly the deer ran, it didn't break the spine or even damage it. I got the deer but was amazed that the arrow didn't get thru. Deer react and things in the body move and what looks like a decent shot really isn't. I don't know what happened with your buck and since you didn't recover it you won't know either but you hit something that caused it to stop the arrow. Meat and hide won't do it. Every experience is a learning one, good or bad. Total Chaos
  5. Go to www.lemproducts.com and they have one (# for $100. Very similar to the one I have and I've ground on average 3 deer a year for the last 20+ years. If you aren't doing more than 1 a year this would be more than adequate in my opinion. I've done kielbasa with it and it worked fine. Total Chaos
  6. I checked today and I'm on the light side for FOC. 15% by the calculation formula. I suppose if I bumped up to 125 gr heads it would help my situation more. Could also change the inserts. Total Chaos
  7. I honestly don't know what it is. I'll have to check. Total Chaos
  8. For all the Rage haters, here's a pic of the bear I shot yesterday with my 500 grain Carbon Express, Piledriver arrow and a Rage extreme chisel tip, 2 1/4" cut. That knife is 4" long. That was the entry hole and it was a complete pass thru and the bear only went 40 yards. Rage for me until they stop making them. Total Chaos
  9. pm sent
  10. On/Off is what I use as well. Works great. I use it every year on my boat. Comes out brown and ends nice and white. I don't even bother covering the trailer or asphalt driveway. Just was everything down good. Total Chaos
  11. These are vertical cowbells. Meaning you connect the downrigger cable to one end and the ball to the other then run the lure off of the release like normal. No front blade needed.
  12. 1 Hammerhead Vertical Cowbell size 4,brand new never used. $10 shipped paypal preferred. Total Chaos
  13. 9, 13" whip flashers with the box. 1 of them is a Blue Angle from Kingston tackle the rest are Oki or John King flashers. $60 includes shipping. Paypal preferred. Total Chaos
  14. 11 flashers for sale 7 are Pro Chips 1 is an Oki Little Shooter and 3 are Spin Doctors. All are 8". 5 have uv tape on them. $50 and that includes shipping. Paypal preferred. Total Chaos
  15. I hang mine off the hook on the rigger boom. Cannons have them and so do scottys. Total Chaos
  16. I'll take lots 3 and 5. Pm sent. Total Chaos
  17. I don't think there'd be a problem running it as a free slider but I like to have it in the fish zone. Usually this time of the year the band of cold water is pretty tight so running a free slider seems like a waste of time. As for stacking, I do it the same all the time. I run 2 riggers and they will be angled back and to the side. Therefore my rod on the bottom will be to the outside and the stacked rod will be to the inside. The bottom rod will always be run shorter. Sometimes the bottom rod will get caught in the top rod when a fish hits but not very often. It's actually a standard setup for me to stack rods even in the spring. Total Chaos
  18. Stacking is the only way I run my plugs. Usually 15 or 20ft above the flasher fly and 35-50ft back. They'll dive some on their own so if a King comes up to the flasher/fly and doesn't like it and drops back there's a plug swimming by in short time. Usually takes a few fish this time of the year. Total Chaos
  19. A can of Krylon flourescent green paint works fine. Or if you have some WTP tape you can use a hole punch and cut out dots and stick them on there. I use the tape method myself and it works fine. I have used the Krylon but the tape is easier. Total Chaos
  20. The rage about broadheads continues, no pun intended. Every year this question comes up and every year it's the same answers. So as like years past here's my answer. Personally I shoot Rages and love them. I've lost 1 deer with them but not because of them!! I've shot at least a dozen deer with them. I've shot deer from NY to Illinois so I have some knowledge about them. First I'd say don't put Rages in the same catagory as over the top mechanicals like Rockets or Wasp and the likes. They aren't the same animal. Over the tops are garbage. They rob kinetic energy and deflect on quartering shots because of the way the blades ratchet out upon deployment. They leave a small entry hole and if you don't get thru the blood trails are poor. A Rage doesn't work like that. The blades open as they enter not once they're in like over the tops, leaving a nice hole and if you don't get thru you still have a decent blood trail. I question ever time I see someone say a rage deflected on a quartering shot because I've never seen it myself. The whole concept doesn't make sense with the way the blades deploy. To me something else went wrong if you had a deflection, namely poor shot placement. I once shot a buck quartering so sharply that I had to enter thru the front of the ham and angle all the way thru the body and broke off the opposite front leg and just poked out of the hide. No deflection there! That brings up the next issue. Bow weight, arrow weight and arrow speed. I suspect a lot of issues with the Rages are due to inadiquate bow setup. I shoot a 500 grain piledriver arrow, it's going thru whatever it hits. I shoot 70lbs at 28.5" draw. My kinetic energy is stout to say the least. I sacrafice some speed but I'd rather have the kinetic energy. The guys shooting IBO arrow weights are the ones who will have the issues. Speed doesn't makeup for arrow weight and its a proven fact. I have shot right thru a shoulder blade more than once. Last year I shot a doe almost straight down and managed to clip the spine and a shoulder blade making it out the bottom of the deer. That Extreme Rage cut a massive hole. Yes the blades were bent and twisted but the thing did the job. The next thing I see is that the blades pop open during flight. Again this has never happened to me. That said I have had them open in the quiver. Which leads me to the statement self inflicted. I pulled the arrow out at such a way that the blade caught the side and open, my fault. I've also been guilty of playing with the blades and not seating back in the o-ring correctly, again my fault. We have a natural curiosity of seeing how things work and then not putting it back the right way, it's human nature. The new lock collars work way better at holding the blades closed than the o-rings did. I will say that the blades do rattle a bit with the lock collars that I wish they didn't. I did try o-rings with the lock collar overit last year and that seemed to work. I only shot the 1 doe so the verdict is still out about how consistant it will be. As far as blades not opening again I've never seen it and find it hard to believe they don't just because of the design of them. I also know sometime ago they redsigned the blade where it hooks the o-ring and or shock collar. The original ones weren't as hooked as they are now which may have led to some premature blade opening but again I bet more was operator error after playing with the blades. As far as fixed heads reigning surpreme, maybe but my father lost 2 bucks to Muzzy heads so what gives? I'll tell you it was shot placement every time. 1 he shot quartering away and he hit the shoulder which deflected it into the neck and throat. I shot the deer 3 weeks later during gun season and I'll tell you he was dieing a long painful death. He lost another with a fixed blade Wasp that hit shoulder and didn't penetrate. Bottom line is #1, shot placement. Don't blame a head for your mistake. If you hit it right just about any head (even over the top) will do the job. #2, the correct bow setup for the head you're using. Lighter setups should be using a good cut on contact head. #3, try them all and make you own decisions on what works best for your setup and take other peoples advise with a grain of salt because you don't know the situation they encountered when the head failed. Did the deer turn at the sound of the shot causing what appeared to be a deflection. I've had deer react to the shot and the arrow took funky paths thru the deer that didn't make sense or seemed impossible for the position it was in when I shot. Was the bow/arrow to light for the head in use. I can tell you this, when I switched to the 2 1/4" cut Rage extreme it did not penetrate as good as the standard Rage because of the amount of matter it was cutting. It actually surprised me what it took to push that amount of blade thru an animal. When I use up my Extremes I will go back to the standard Rage because the penetration is just that much better. One last thing about the Rage is the security you get in knowing that on a borderline hit you're cutting a lot of material compared to a fixed blade head. I feel I would have lost a few more deer had I been shooting fixed blade compared to Rages with poor shots that I made. Again operator error. I didn't put it in the right spot but at least I cut enough and had a big enough hole to make it a recovery instead of a loss. Hope this was at least a good read for you. Again you make the decision on what's best for your setup and ability. I did and I choose Rage. Total Chaos
  21. I had a 1992, 2002 Trophy with the 150 Force that I bought brand new and it was junk. I had it back to the dealer numerous times and they could fix it. It won't troll so you'd need a kicker. It will just foul plugs like crazy. The fuel delivery sucks. 3 carbs for 5 cylinders just doesn't work. It needs constant tuning. It's gutless as well. I don't know where they get 150 hp from but it can't be at the prop. I wouldn't do it if I were you. Total Chaos
  22. Freebird, where are you getting $25 from? It's been $30 for at least the last 3 years and $30 to $40 is only a 30% increase!! ProTrolls have gone up $3 this year. Spoons and Rapalas have had substanial price increases as well. I haven't seen you bashing the tackle companys or tackle shops for that. With the reduced price in gas this year from last you should have easily saved the $40 needed for the derby. If the entry fee doesn't fit your budget then don't fish it but there's no reason to bash the derby for it. Total Chaos
  23. Wow if you're that cheap just give up fishing!! $40 isn't nothing nowadays. Couple weeks ago I broke off a diver and that cost me $40 in lost tackle. I didn't think twice about replacing it and I bet you don't either. Bottom line, with a chance to win $25k it's a drop in the bucket for me. I've been fishing the derby since 1991 and It's more than paid for itself with a 2 place salmon in the fall of 2005, a 20th place salmon in the spring of 2006 and the LOC grand prize in the fall of 2013. You gotta be in it to win it!! Total Chaos
  24. I've sold 5 boats privately and 4 sold in July and 1 in August. So I'd say summer. Total Chaos
  25. I had an 86' 140 vro had similar issues. It was always the carbs being plugged. As stated earlier you can't always see it. Choke cleaner in every orifice was needed numerous times. Also may want to check your fuel ball. I had one go bad and it would suck closed and restrict fuel flow. Fuel lines could be bad. Those motors didn't have the new stuff that's resistant to ethanol. You could also have debris in your diaphragm fuel pump. Just some more things to check that you didnt want to. Total Chaos
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