TyeeTanic

Will they also spool other reels for a low fee? Lol, just pushing my luck.

Nice! Now I have to pick a reel!

1) Marine is VHF. 2) You need a ROC(M) card to legal use one on the water. Note technically if you listen only, you are not "using" it. But some enforcement officials consider having it "on" as using it. So, I'd call this a grey area. 3) You cannot use a VHF anywhere on the water, on land or via a base station (fixed station) from land without a license. Note to use a fixed station on the marine frequencies the ROC(M) doesn't work, you need a special license. 4) CB is not used in marine. CB definitions and terms like "10-4" and "come in dogfish, come in" are dead give aways that a person does not have a ROC(M) license. 5) You can take a ROC(M) course in 1 Sunday afternoon and you are done, or over 3 weeks during some night on a weekday. Go online to find a local course. It is great to have, and not really all that difficult to get. It is great to be able to talk to your fishing buds on the VHF and figure out where the fishing is happening. Hope this helps.

32 GB make sure it is Class 10.

If they are 14" and under they are great to eat. Mercury is a problem in all the Great Lakes. But your body has a tolerance for mercury as long as you don't eat tons of salmon. By the way the salmon in the grocery store is probably a lot worse for you. Look up farmed salmon health on a google search.

Yvan just spoke to Ryan. We do t knowif we are going to get in on the other tightline tourney and also are just getting our feet wet with competitions. So we want to stick with the AM comp, and aren't looking for the overall right now. I will be at straight lines tomorrow so I can chat to you more about it then. Thanks for letting me know.

Yvan let me check. Ryan (knotreel on pullers) booked it with you a couple of months ago. To be honest I just wanted "in" without knowing what the best option is. Where can I read up on the differences between the two?

Krawler, it is the opposite to your suggestion, follow Dan's advice. You need to let out the outside shallow lines first, and yes shallower lines are further from the boat. Deeper are closer. The reason you do this is because when you let out a line there is much less drag so the bait sinks deeper and to the center until you stop spooling and the planer or dipsey grips the water. Only then will the lure rise and pull off to the side. If you let the deep lines out first you run the risk of the shallow lines tangling into them as the deeper lines will be closer to the center of the boat. Deploying the shallow lines first gets them out away from the center and high in the water column, so there's no risk of tangles when you deploy the deeper lines.

Yes, one of our team members did.

You will probably be able to go down to around 3 mph, which might be fast on some days and depending on direction of the current. I would easily consider the following items to slow me down in this order: - kicker, you should be able to mount it (this will save lots of gas, take hundreds of hours off your main engine) - happy troll plate. Mounts to the drive, but should be done by a professional or you may have corrosion of the drive (stainless plate vs. light metal drive). - drift sock. Drift sock will attach to a cleat on the side of your boat towards the bow, not in the back. You may need one on each side to make it easier to steer the boat. I've used all red methods.

Ivan, How do we know what teams are in for the amateur comp. We signed up "King Kongs", payment made, but are awaiting confirmation. Will you post this on the website?

Bud, that looks like a Strip Club for fishing lures. Awesome! You should make more and sell them, that is a great idea.

Don't use a swivel, a double uni knot is a much better idea. I use this to tie 20ft leads to my flea flicker.

I've been running 4 dipsies for the last 2 years. Only had a bad tangle twice. Once was too hard of a turn and the other is a mistake I made deploying the divers. If you stick to the system it works.

You're getting the logic now. The point is look at the dive charts and then decide (a) what settings you want each of your weights at, and how much line you need to let out to get to the target depth. I extracted data from the charts and came up with my own table of settings/line lengths for various target depths on my inside and outside divers. What you want to aim for is your outside diver being around 10 - 20 feet higher than the inside diver, and about 1.5 weight setting difference (say 1.0 on the inside diver and 2.5 on the outside diver). The next step is to drop a good color combination between both the inside and outside dipseys, as they work as a group (which is why you keep it only 10 - 20 feet higher).

The reason they do this is to maximize the depth of the diver. The larger the setting, the farther it goes out to the side of the boat, but then it doesn't diver as deeper. The whole point of the diver is to get depth, so it's not just about maximum horizontal seperation. You work with a separation you are comfortable with and no more than that, so you can get the divers as deep as possible - I normally use 4 dipseys and go 2.5 starboard, 1.0 starboard, 1.0 portside, 2.5 portside. That gives a 1.5 to 2.0 seperation between each diver. I feel a 3 is unnecessary on the outside divers and all I do is loose depth.

I have the elite 5 gold (standard, not dsi). I have gone to 370 ft of water and read bottom. Have you tuned your device for deep water? You can adjust the gain. But note you can't use the same settings for shallow and deep. There are presetings you can also use.I really like my unit. Easy to use and has a lot of features. I think it is the best value for money out there. And yes it tells you GPS speed. The only thing it lacks is trip distance.

That's the best site. And it is pretty accurate.

You can run SDs and flies off the riggers, but they are more productive off a wire dispey. So being that you should run spoons in your spread, by default it is better to put those on the riggers and leave the fly combos for your dipsey rods.

Green frog pattern and hammer time. Purple on dark black dot and bloody death. Hawg wild SD with hang wild fly. This year I added Carmel dolphin to the mix.

One is continuos down temp and the other is a spot test (drop and pull up). You can't compare. If you can get the x4d rather do that.

I have scotty rod holders. Biggest fish on those rod holders is a 35lb salmon, no problem.

Consistent with what everyone is saying. Put the deeper diver closer to the boat and deploy it first. Them the lighter diver then finally the board. Remember as you let things out they will generally go deeper as there is less drag on the line and equipment, think of it sinking in still water. So letting it out slow helps avoid tangles.

I use 7 strand. It has never given me problems. It is still really easy to work with. I can't justify changing to 19, and why pay the extra money for it anyhow??