Bozeman Bob

If that is what you like then buy them. You only go around once so why have 2nd thoughts on buying a rigger that's not number one on your list ? They have a lifetime warranty, great features, extremely well built and thought out. Top of the line Cannon with swivel bases and ratcheting rod holders are pretty close to there price. Not sure if they are lifetime warranty either. Next set I buy will be the Traxstech. New boat to me and tons of money put into the electronic and setting up end has me scheduled to replace the current riggers the following season. My version of pay to play !

Should be in front of your prop as turbulence will affect it. My through hull is in front of the engine on the starboard side, pretty much right under the Captains feet on a straight inboard. As mentioned the Airmar B60 is the way to go and you have a choice of two different mounting angles so [depending on the deadrise where you want to put it] it shoots straight down.

I would go to there web site and post that question on there forum. It might take a day or two before its posted as questions are pre screened. I believe the law is companys only have to stock parts for a item 10 years after it was initially manufactured. That's what a guy at a Stihl shop told me. That way the companies get to sell you new stuff and are not saddled with old inventory. I called Furuno about a repair on a FVC 585 and the guy said I would be better off buying a used unit than having it fixed. Each company and there customer service has it quirks ,I roll with it if its a good product.

FishUSA.com has the 17lb sharks weights for 90.00 and that includes shipping. Your cannons are rated for 20lbs but I wouldn't go over 17. We use the 17s for deep water and anything above 75' the 15s are put over. Its suggested not to mix the brands your using as they will track different than the Sharks.

I wasn't trying to be a jerk about it, just that your 1st post had a response. That has a tendency to derail the OPs issue along with two different subjects going on at the same time.

Guffins your pretty much hijacking this thread and should probably start your own. The OPs thread is about his throttle "sticking", not a shifting issue.So the lower shift cable has nothing to do with the operation of the throttle cable.

I would unhook the cable from the motor to try and isolate where its sticking. If its in the controller I would google the model[or best description] and then you tube it the same way and see what comes up.

What is the max rpm rating of your motor ? How many rpms are you turning with a near empty load ? Did you buy the boat like this or has it gone south over a period of time? Some people put a higher pitch prop on there boats thinking that it will increase fuel mileage and it does just the opposite because all your doing is lugging the engine. Compression numbers and timing are two other factors. A 3 bladed SS prop will give you a 1-2 mph gain in speed and a smoother troll in most cases vs a flexed out old aluminum prop. No one can give you a definitive answer with out some basic info. You can have props repitched by most reputable shops. So if your running a 19" and are 1 or 200 over the redline they can make it a 20" so your a bit under it. Where as a 21" would be too much and your back to lugging her.

Sounds great. The way it trolls down it sounds like you could sell your kicker to recoup some of your money and shave some weight off the stern at the same time. If your concerned about the safety factor of getting back in case of engine issues, [hitting a log or something like that, not mechanical ] maybe get a smaller kicker with a self contained fuel tank that weighs less than your present unit.

I would google Marine Surveyors in Mass. then look at where there located and how many years they have been at it along with there accreditation. 25 to 18.00 per foot is the going rate. Then pick two or three and talk to each of them to get a feel for they guy you feel most comfortable with. A surveyor rarely gets into the engine as far as compression etc goes. They will look at hoses and battery setup along with anything out of the ordinary. When they go for a sea trial they monitor the gauges along with throttle response , how she idles down, any strange vibrations in the drive line. They are really looking for any issues with the hull ,switches working, bulkheads being intact, routing of wires and plumbing along with electronics functioning. They should give you a written report, including value be used if you insure it, good luck!

X2 its like any other merger/buyout. Just look at the Airlines or lack of them and what happened to there pricing and services. After buying a overpriced ticket you get to pay extra 25.00 per luggage bag and there "meal" on a 5 hour flight is a bag of pretzels and can of pop. Just look at your cable bill to see merger 101 in action.

Material for board is ? How do keels hook up , picture like that would be helpful. Any guarantee ? Tested with what size lures and line used ? Cost/shipping ? Looks nice ,are they heavier or built any stronger than the Otter ? A little more info is a good thing in this case.

Cant figure out how to go back and edit.------ Just the cable isn't going to cut it-----

You will need a weight on the ducer, up cable isn't going to cut it. What happens when you troll 1/4 mile and the temp/underwater currents changes,, if you just plan on using it to get a initial reading ? Should be in the water the whole time your trolling.

Hand lowering and RAISING a cannonball and probe/not so aerodynamic ducer/ 100 or so feet will grow old pretty fast. One mess in the bow area and blistered hands = not fun fishing. IMHO its got Hiddenburg written all over it.

Besides what I already mentioned the unit you want to " convert " is not calibrated for trolling speeds, so its accuracy is probably not going to be anywhere near a dedicated unit. Those units reed in tenths of a MPH.

Your transducer signals will bounce off the bottom directly below it and should not interfere with the new ducer as they are way too far apart..... Now ,how are you going to spool up the ducer cable when you retrieve it and how are you going to attach it to the rigger cable so it doesn't bow way out from all the resistance as it has a big diameter.If you try to tape it to the rigger cable and retrieve it on the spool your going to pinch that ducer cable so bad its going to destroy the ducer cable in no time. What happens when the ball starts to pinwheel and wraps up the ducer cable ? How are you going to waterproof all the connections of the ducer cable that are underwater ? IMHO its a waste of money to buy a few cables and cob some stuff together and a PIA to use vs a unit that is hooked up to rigger that has two purposes,temp,speed unit and a fishing line. Save your money and do it right the first time. Christmas is only like 11 weeks away, ask Santa nicely !