sherman brown

I never said it wasn't a fantastic deal! but who has 1000.00 at 1 time to spend on gear that needs all that gear? with the gear I already have I wouldn't ever use 1/3 of it. but someone just starting out and young could use most of it over the next few years. but just how many young guys just getting started have that much money for tackle? if anyone can spare 1000.00 this would be a great investment that will save them thousands in the future. I had no intention of starting a firestorm by making a suggestion.

back years ago I was using an old 16' deep v boat on Erie for some years. money was tight back then so I had to make do. I am from Tn and moved to In, in 1965, and still have family in Tn. On my travels, I kept seeing this old boat sitting under a tree out in the middle of a field. on one trip I stopped and asked just what they had to have for it as everything in it was rotten. the tires on the trailer was flat and rotted. I got a price of what the boat was worth when it had been parked many years ago. I told her the condition of the boat and offered 200.00 for it. she said some guy she knew had told her what to ask for it when it was parked. then she said she would ask him if 200.00 was enough and she would call me. I was going to be in Tn for a week and thought she might call me. then we went back home giving up on getting the boat. a couple of days later she called and the guy told her if she could still get 200.00 for it she should take it right away. we got the old boat home and all I wanted was a larger boat for fishing the big water. the white paint was pretty much gone and was just the aluminum hull. i took it over to show it to a friend who owned a body shop. he said if I would have it sandblasted he would paint it for the cost of the paint. my X-brother n law owned a sandblasting shop and my younger brother was his sandblaster. he said to bring it is Saturday and he would blast it for free. I got a beautiful blue metallic paint that made the boat look new. I knew another guy that had boat parts cheap after he bought out a marina's parts stock. so I got many new parts including a universal steering cable and a part that hooked on the transom to hold the cable so only the inside cable moved. it had had a built-up sun deck in the bow with a walk-through windshield but it was totally rotted out. the floor was in bad shape but where there weren't holes it was still solid. I tore the rest of the bow out then just put another sheet of plywood over the floor in the back. i cut plywood to fit the bow level with the back floor. then I used about 15 cans of spray foam insulation and filled the bottom on the back with all of it except just enough to fill the bow high enough to be level with the floor in the back. then I took the cut plywood and placed it on top of the styrofoam in the bow and let everything set up. now I had a heavy aluminum 18' boat that looked new except it didn't have any seats. but at that time there was an RV surplus close to me that had boat lounge seats for only 150.00 a set. that really topped the boat off. I already had a great 80 HP mariner motor that i put on it. but when loaded for Erie it really struggled getting on plane. but later I passed a prop shop going out of business. the only prop he had that fit my motor was a 15p aluminum prop that I bought for a spare. back then I knew absolutely nothing about pitch. a few trips to Erie later I just tried the 15p prop and to my amazement, it was like a whole new boat. that boat jumped on plane and ran strong. I had thought the motor didn't have enough power, but now it was great on that boat., we used that bigger heavy aluminum Cherokee boat for many many years. with it, we could fish if any boats went out except maybe the large charters and a few boats as big. I had the same as a new boat that I only had about 650.00 total except for the motor that was almost a new motor that I had borrowed 1900.00 so I could buy it for my other boat after it blew the old motor. I have to say I'm very sorry for the book and hijacking your thread. and I had no intentions of writing a book when I started. but I do have copyrights to this post. I only bought a larger 20' Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 hp when we moved to the central basin. i have always had a small regret about selling that boat because it would have made an awesome Central Basin boat. the nice thing about it was the heavy gauge aluminum that they used on that boat.

I won't even try to tell you how to post this but may I make a suggestion? this would be an awesome buy, but not many guys needing tackle usually don't have nearly 1000.00 to spend at 1 time for tackle. it may take a very long time if ever for someone with 1000.00 for tackle. you might do so much better selling your tackle if you broke it up into smaller lots. i might even buy a spoon lot if it had lots of purples for walleye. like I said this is just a suggestion. I do understand selling the whole lot would be much better for you, but the only time I even came close to 1000.00 was my fish finder which I bought a used HDS 9 GEN3 with a 3D structure scan, transducer, and all cables used very lightly for 850.00 shipped. and when I bought 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers new off eBay for 525.00 each shipped. and when I upgraded 6 of my old sealine SG reels with new coldwater 203 reels that I did overtime for 80.00 to 90.00 each. the rest of what I have was bought for less than 300.00 at the most.

if a guy has a good motor to put on it this would be an awesome big water boat. plus it's small enough for playing in the water. it's a light boat and should trailer very easily and be easy on gas on the water. a 22' boat is a good size boat for smaller crews. if this was 30 years ago I couldn't pass on this deal. i seen it for sale on FACEBOOK marketplace

if you will just google it you will learn the pee hole is just a bypass line that doesn't have anything to do with the cooling it's just to show the water pump is pumping water. if the stream is low the first thing is to make sure the line isn't stopped up. if it's still a small weak stream then the next option is the impeller is probably not pumping water like it should. most motors start peeing almost as soon as the motor starts. at idle it should still be a healthy steady stream but when the motor is revved up the stream should get very strong and go out farther from the motor. all the water the pump, pumps doesn't flow into the motor as the thermostats regulate the amount of water it needs to get the motor up to temperature and then keeps it at that temperature. if they let all the fresh cool water in the motor would never get up to temperature. the back pressure is why more water flows out the pee hole. back when I was a young man and racing cars we just removed the thermostat so more cool water was flowing through the motor. it never even got up to operating temperature even when it was on the track. there was nothing to slow the flow to the motor and let it get up to temperature. the thermostat serves the same purpose in an outboard motor. the water coming out of the pee hole never enters the inside of the motor but gets hot fast by the exhaust.

I don't know who or what price you guys settled on but if everything like the motor is still in great shape they just made the purchase of the year. any 2008 fishing boat is worth a little more than your boat was priced at the end. I kind'a hope it was someone young that bought it as they will get many, many years of pleasure fishing with this boat at what I believe to be a great price. just tackle and, riggers, electronics, baits, and extras would have cost a few thousand if they were bought separately. congrats to you on the sale and another congrats to the buyer on a fantastic purchase.

I have to disagree with you about the thermostat opening before the water comes out of the pee hole. the motor has to reach operating temperatures of about 150 degrees before the thermostat opens and that takes much longer than it takes for water to come out of the pee hole. the pee line is there just to let you know water is being pumped. on many outboard motors, the water starts almost as soon as the motor starts up. I haven't ever tested it but I believe if the motor was cranked over for a minute or a little longer water would start coming out. why don't a lot of you guys that believe the water out the pee hole is dependent on the thermostat opening just Google the route of the pee hole on outboard motors and see what you get? the lines run against the exhaust plus I believe it even flows with the exhaust heating the water much faster than the motor heats up enough to open the thermostats. I don't want you to feel like I'm attaching you because all this is from what I've read and is totally my opinion and that's all. in your case, you are jinxed. it is very rare anything large enough to stop up the thermostats would ever get past the screen on the water pick-up or be deep enough to get in water pick-up on the lower unit. but I will never say anything can't happen. but even at idle the pump is pumping more than enough water to keep the motor cool if the impeller and upper housing are good. if it overheats even at idle something else has to be wrong. the worst I was ever fooled was after smoking my impeller I replaced it. at idle or slow speed it cooled just fine. but if I went over 3/4 throttle i could watch the heat hand rise. I took it back down and made sure a piece of the old impeller hadn't stopped up a water line I cleaned them from the back to the motor. put it back together with another new impeller, and it still overheated at higher RPM. I was asked by a friend who runs a charter and worked on boats in his spare time if I had changed the housing after telling him I smoked the old impeller while working on changing the carb from a 2-barrel to a 4-barrel with an adaptor plate and forgot to turn the water back on we started it up and revved the motor a few times before someone noticed we had no water.

we have a rusty old piece of wire reserved just for cleaning your pee hole, LOL.

I had that problem with a Mercruiser. I smoked the impeller and replaced it. at slow speed, it did great but hammer down and just watch the heat hand rise, I removed lines I removed the outdrive so I could clean the through hull line but nothing I did helped. I had a friend that chartered on Erie and was a part-time mechanic. I called him up and gave him the symptoms and the 1stthing he asked was had I changed the upper housing. I tore it back down and put the kit with the upper housing bottom wear plate and a new impeller in and took it for a test run and all was well. another thing that can cause one to overheat is something so simple as a blown head gasket.

very happy you got it all figured out. so let me rephrase this. in most cases, the motor won't overheat if the water pump is working properly. if it does you have something else wrong that's causing your problem. the 1st thing to check and replace is the poppet.

the motor stays cool once it warms the thermostat up to its operating temperature which is around 160 degrees which lets the water through and it cools the motor. and the temperature is controlled by the said thermostat. the water out of the pee hole flows through the exhaust and that's what heats it. the pee hole has one purpose and that is to show the driver that the pump is pumping water to the motor and it's just a bypass and serves only that purpose. the water flows out almost as soon as the motor starts which is way before the thermostat opens letting water through to the motor.

I'm so sorry to have to disagree with you. but the water coming out of the pee hole doesn't flow through the block and heads. its only purpose is to alert the driver if the pump isn't pumping to the motor. it starts flowing almost as soon as the motor starts and no motor even without water, doesn't warm that fast. it flows through the exhaust and that is what heats the water. it is a bypass so the driver will know that water is being pumped to the motor but the water out the pee hole doesn't serve any cooling of the motor and doesn't flow through the motor at all. just ask any reputable outboard mechanic what purpose does the pee hole serve. or better yet just Google it because Google is our friend.

if the empeller was pumping properly it would stay cool even when trolling. you need a new water pump impeller and it will stop overheating when idling.

still say the thermostat has nothing to do with water coming out of the pee hole. all the outboards I've owned in the last 45+ years I've been running them the pee hole was flowing almost immediately after the motor starts, and way before the motor heats up enough to open the thermostat. the water out of the pee hole does get hot but that's from going through the lines next to the heads and block and flows through the exhaust that heats the water. it is designed to let the operator know that the pump is working. I have never had a motor overheat because water wasn't flowing out the pee hole. I do understand an outboard warms up faster than I/Os but not near fast enough to open a 140 to 165-degree thermostat. the water starts flowing as soon as the motor starts or just a few seconds later as the water has to flow through the lines and exhaust before it starts flowing. and yes, the water is hot as soon as it starts flowing but it gets heated by the exhaust and not a hot motor. the water flowing through the exhaust is what heats the water. if you watch the water closely you will notice some exhaust coming out also. ask your outboat mechanic what is the purpose of the pee hole. if he doesn't say it is also known as the tell-tell hole and that its only purpose is to show water is getting pumped to the motor then I would switch my mechanics. the exhaust heats the pee-hole water! LIKE I SAY YOU CAN GOOGLE IT OR JUST ASK YOUR MECHANIC!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have said all I'm going to say on this subject. trust me guys, i would not tell you this stuff if I wasn't sure what I'm talking about being a fact.

what has the thermostat got to do with water coming out of the pee hole? the water coming out of the pee hole is just a bypass to show you have water pumping to the motor. the water out of the pee hole has nothing to do with the thermostat being open or closed. it is supposed to flow as soon as the motor starts or a few seconds after while the motor is still cold. the water out the pee hole has nothing whatsoever to do with the thermostat.

I have dealt with outboard motors since 1977. I have had many motor's pee lines get stopped up with something. I always just figured it was some type of bug getting in the line and either building a nest or other things they take up in the tubes that stop or reduce the water flow. I bought an old 115 mercury inline 6 out of a field that was on an old junk boat that had been sitting for many years. it started right up but no water coming out. with the motor running I started working a short piece of large gauge weedeater line up the line. as I was getting it farther up the water started coming out slow at first which was green. as the water started flowing better all kinds of green and brown started coming out as I kept working the line in and out. these lines get clogged many times after setting for any long period. many impellers get changed well before they are bad when the line is only stopped up. anytime my water just isn't coming out the first thing I do is clean the line with weedeater line. in my 45+ years, i have never seen an impeller so bad that some water wasn't coming out a little. before i took it out on the water i did change the impeller. the old one still looked good but it had to be rotten from setting all those years. piece of mind knowing your water impeller isn't going to fail out 10 or 15 miles from shore is well worth the price of a new one and the hour or so to install the new one.

you know the lightning could have hit the water far away from your boat and still been able to damage some of your circuits and even cause a ground wire to make contact with the boat hull. attach a 12v tester to the hot side of your battery then touch it against the hull. there is just no way that rigger ran without getting grounded from someplace.

have either one of you guys thought about relocating your tops forward? all you really need to do is move the anchors for your frame forward then attach the top and move the tie down anchors forward enough to get the tie down lines away from your gear. on mine after I moved it as far forward as I wanted it so it still covered the cockpit the back straps were still in the way. i moved the tiedown anchors as far forward as I could and still held the top. the straps were almost straight down from the top but it worked great and the top never interfered with our fishing. I have installed many tops over the years and moving them forward where you want them is much easier than installing new tops because you already know what you want and how far they need to go to work for you.