

Cody191
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Everything posted by Cody191
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Sliders getting stuck on leader connection?
Cody191 replied to Car-Lee514's topic in Finger Lakes Discussion
You could run a longer leader. I run a 50’ fc leader with a spro power swivel. If my spoon on rigger is back 20-30’ it leaves you another 20-30’ to hook fixed slider on. It will work with the clips your asking about. It works well to get another bait in the water slightly above your first one. However if your running a cheater to say target steelhead higher in the column it won’t work. -
Anyone running a troll smarter on Suzuki 9.9 efi? I recently purchased one but it didn’t come with mounting instructions. I really just need to see where the servo is mounted and how to run the throttle cable.
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If you hook kicker and main to start battery and then run a system like I mentioned, you would keep both start and tm batteries charged as much as possible when running either motor. I think it’s the best way.
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You can do this but I would keep your kicker wired to the start battery. Then run wires from that battery to the tm batteries with some sort of charging relay or combiner in line. You want a system that only charges the tm batteries once the start battery is full and the system should not allow power to drain backwards in the event your start battery is lower voltage than tm batteries. It’s been awhile but yandina combiner and blue sea ACR come to mind. Worth a look to do it right.
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Yes I have same problem. I contacted Tapatalk and they said that LOU is not running the tapatalk plug-in. They said that they would email them and I should as well because sometimes they respond to forum members better. Well , I did and didn’t even get a response. This was over a month ago. THANKS LOU! I hate using the LOU app and I don’t check in as often when I have to use it.
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So what specifically are the problems with the “china junk”? Curious so I can keep my eye out for these issues. Also, where are the cells and bms for pro guide lithium batteries produced? There website doesn’t have much info on their actual construction. I’m also interested in what makes them 2.5 times better than a cheap china lithium as $900 a piece compared to $350. I mean $2700 to run a trolling motor is pretty steep.
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I bought ampere time off Amazon. They are on year 4 and have been great. Definitely saved a lot of money going off brand but be advised they do not have a low temp charge protection BMS. I already had the power pole charge so that handles that aspect. It’s just my opinion but I do not believe you will get a battery twice as good if you spend twice as much. Seems like if you really dig into it there mostly all made in china anyway. Also you did not mention your intended purpose for this battery. Not all of them are rated as crank batteries. So if your planning a dual purpose house/crank battery, that will really limit your options.
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You are most likely referring to lithium ion batteries. They are different than lifepo4 batteries which are more stable and becoming very popular for marine applications. There biggest pros are double the run time and much lighter. The only cons in my opinion are the price and if you charge them in freezing temps you can permanently damage them. There are way’s around this though. Way to much info for me to explain. I recommend doing your research. My setup is 3 12v lifepo4 batteries running my 36v ulterra and my powerpole charge protects them from charging in freezing temps. The higher end batteries have internal circuitry to not allow charging at certain temps. The very high end ones even have heaters in them. I fish a lot of inland lakes and hardly use my kicker now. I can troll cranks at 2.5mph for 6-8 hours now. Would get maybe 3-4 hours previously. And I catch more in stealth mode with no kicker running. For Lake Ontario style fishing I still use the kicker. With riggers and divers it’s just to much drag for trolling motor only. I also dropped 150 pounds out of my boat. It handles much better.
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Thank you! Kind of how I was leaning. Seems like it would be better to have one rod that’s close to the depth you need than 2 that are a ways off and need large adjustments with snap weights. Also you can only make lines go deeper, can’t make them any shallower so if I had say 2- 300’ ws and 2- 400’ ws and you need a 200’ your out of luck. Based on reels I already have I think I’m going to set up 2- 200’, 1-300’, and 1- 400’ weighted steel. The shorter ones will also be nice for spring/ fall fishing and steelhead. Eh, it’s only money.
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Thanks again for all the responses. I get the feeling I’m being talked out of the longer lines. Which is fine. I do fully understand that sometimes less is more. I do fish alone at least half the time so I understand the ease of going with the riggers and dipseys but I was just looking for ways to get extra lines in the water when I have more people on board. Even if it is only two more. I do fish the finger lakes also and adding extra lines there would be beneficial. Was just wondering people’s opinion on how many of each length to carry if you were trying to limit rods. Thanks again.
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I appreciate everyone’s replies. I already use everything that was mentioned. I have riggers, wire divers, mag dipseys, slide divers, chinook divers, fishhawk etc. my question was really just about long lines off boards. I’m not a fan of running double dipseys per side even though I know many do it well. I’m looking for a way to get a 5th and 6th rod out or even a 7th and 8th when we have 3 people on board. I’m very experienced with running boards but not so much on Ontario. My question was if you were trying to limit rods would you have 4 different length setups or double up two different lengths. Whether it’s weighted steel, copper or leadcore doesn’t matter to me. I’m more interested in what way an experienced Ontario fisherman would do it and why.
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Got a question for all you seasoned long liners. If you we’re starting to get into Lake Ontario trolling from a smaller boat, and wanted to limit long lines to 4 rods what would you do. option one- two set ups of equal length, like 2- 200’ weighted steel and 2- 400’ weighted steel and try to use snap weights to fine tune depth. option 2- have 4 different lengths and hopefully have one that would be useful depending on where fish are. Like 100’, 200’, 300’ and 400’. Guess you could fine tune these with snap weights as well. What’s your thoughts? I do a lot of inland striper, walleye, trout trolling and like having dual setups when running inline boards so I can mirror image my spread but not sure that’s the right plan for Ontario style fishing. Obviously there’s a much larger water column.
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I hunt both in northeast pa. As far as woodcock go, I generally start seeing them around the last week of October here during there migration. Not many here the rest of the year. If your area doesn’t hold them year round and your depending on the migration bringing them in you may be late but I don’t know for sure. For grouse, we have them but not in good numbers. Here your best chance of getting one is the first couple days of the season. Once they’ve been bumped a couple times they get real spookey and won’t hold and usually you just hear them. Growing up we had a cabin in upstate New York. Around gouvereur. This was a long time ago but there was a lot of grouse there. If I was going to target grouse in New York and was willing to travel I’d probably start somewhere in the Adirondacks/upstate. A trip to Michigan is an easy way to get these birds in numbers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It’s ooh rah. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I totally get it with hounds. Them things can end up in another country. Especially coyote dogs. I guess my point was just that bird hunting doesn’t have to be crazy expensive to do well. It’s just easy to fall into the gear hype these days. I’m not immune. The money I got into fishing equipment is ridiculous. And there’s plenty of days I don’t do well and look at all that crap and I’m like for what. I could go buy a ribeye and save money. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The dog thing doesn’t have to get crazy. I shot an awful lot of birds in my life over a well trained dog with no collars. Yes if your ultra competitive they give you an advantage. I hunted Saturday with my dog with a bell and my buddy with 2 setters with alphas. We had our 6 birds by 9:00am. My vizsla pointed 4 out of the 6 less than 30 yards from us. His dogs were way out. Yeah it’s cool I guess when your handset tells you your dogs on point but in reality training is way more important. If you need to confirm your dog is hunting and not laying down you got a problem there. It’s like anything, technology is just making up for our shortcomings . Growing up I never had an issue shooting deer with a bow, and I smelled like stale beer and cigarettes from all the old timers at camp playing cards all night. Now we think we need special clothes and sprays and electronics. Really we just need the ability to sit still, be quiet, read the sign and shoot straight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Depends on how you plan to train and hunt your dog. I hunt with guys who go all over the country and their dogs range far. They all use e collars and trackers. Some use beeper collars. It notifies you when dogs on point then you follow the screen to your dog. The collars are essential to them guys and they run garmins. My vizsla and I pound the grouse and woodcock woods of the northeast. He doesn’t range much more than 30-40 yards. I need nothing more than a bell on his collar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk