Gill-T

My only two concerns with a thru-hull is my bunk trailer damaging the element, and my reoccuring dream I am in my boat...... and it is sinking.

Thanks Kevin, I might take you up on that. Now get back to work getting more sponsors!

Put an electric motor on the front, a planer mast, two big jon three-rod holder pedestal mounted mid-ship, two corner downriggers. I love spending other people's money . Your boys would love chasing smallmouth off Erie, walleyes in Oneida, fingerlakes trolling, drifting for steelhead in the Niagara, shoreline brown trolling, Canadian trips, St. Lawrence River pike......lots o'opportunities.

Fingerlakes yep, drift boat for the Niagara yep, bar.......nope....too many big wave days.

I would like to report a thread theft.

This is what I am contemplating. I have two already prepped previous in-hull locations to choose from. For $58 bucks for a lowrance (what they call) a thru-hull transducer (actually an in-hull) I could swap between transducers by changing the plug on the back of the unit. I don't have much space for a second unit so this would solve that problem. If these in-hull transducers don't show bait when up on plane, then there is no reason to purchase. I understand you will lose 10% power going thru fiberglass...and back but with an LCX unit what does that translate to? Could someone with a shoot thru transducer tell me if hooks and bait show up on their unit under cruising speed? Thank you.

Thanks Bruce, I have seen the great results of thru-hulls (charter boats), however, I was looking for more feed back on in-hulls.

I can't get past the idea of drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat, so I am considering a airmar in-hull transducer. I have two previous epoxy spots that appear to be previous transducer spots from past owners. Does anyone have experience with these type of transducers and can offer insight about how well they show bottom, bait, hooks when up on plane? Should I mount over the old epoxied locations? My boat is a bayliner '88 and there is a sticker that says marine core on the transom, but not sure on the type of materials the transducer would be shooting thru.

We are two weeks behind last year in terms of water temps and bait in the creeks.

I think I am going to write my next article on this. For the sake of "sanity", no one should every have to dispense more than 400' of copper (PITA). Here is a hint. Aftco roller release, Planer line, 16 oz balls.

Youngtown for the best year'round fishing port. Wilson, if you include amenities such as shops, marinas and restraunts.

Talking to oldtimers, there used to be a ban on using eggs on Naples Creek? The oldtimers talk about thick fish runs of yesteryear. Maybe a ban on eggs should be revisited?

This does not bother me much. I enjoy Lakers, but I prefer the other species. Lakers live a long time and consume a lot bait in their lifetime. Nobody eats them. Other than the Niagara, there is not shore fishing for them. Plant more cohos, steelhead, browns and kings. We have more than enough bait year'round on the west end of the lake, but I have seen a lot of vapor screens on the east end. I don't want to see our Kings look like Michigans.

You don't need expensive flurocarbon leader material if you are fishing stained water.

40# fluro for fly leaders, #20 fluro for leadcore, #15 mono and #30 mono for rigger rods, #30 mono for dipsy leaders. I have had a problem with light fluoro breaking.

I assume you were running fluro leader Glen? I have been having trouble with the lighter fluro breaking as well. Green #15 mono from now on. Rodney.......you are like CNN News........you are everywhere!

The one thing you have to watch with braid is allowing it to dig into itself. After spooling it on the reel, go down to the school ball fields and hook a swivel on a chainlink fence and walk back in free-spool and take almost all the braid off the reel (1000' is a long way, give yourself room). Engage the reel and under tension, reel the braid back onto the spool tight ( I do this for my wire and copper as well). If a school is not available (what?), then when you hit the water for the first run, put on a dipsy and send it out 400', trip it and reel it back in. A few times a year do the dipsy trick. When that king salmon is ripping line, you don't want any hesitations or you will loose your gear and your MIND . The diameter is larger than power pro. If you get any fleas on the line just slap the line on the surface as you bring the dipsy back in (can't do that with wire!). The surface tension of the water pulls off the fleas as the line breaks the surface. I just replaced my braid, but the old stuff looked as good as the day I bought it-minus the first 50' of line. I reused the old stuff for backing on some leadcore set-ups.

Olcott piers with light north or NW winds fish the inside water. With southerly or western winds fish the end or lake side mostly. Minnow under a bobber with a 4' lead, and second rod to chuck small spoons or stickbaits.

Your options would be browns, cohos and lakers off Olcott or launch in Youngstown and fish for kings, lakers, cohos. If it is too rough, you could drift the trench hole at the mouth of the river for lakers (near the green can).

Almost got out.....too much boat prep work. See you out there this weekend Adam.

It is a western stream pattern. Mysis shrimp spill out of dam spill ways in western reservoirs. A light white fly. I am sure Umpqua or LLbean sells a version.

Throw a little salt on the meat, then freeze in a block of ice. I just ate a coho last night from last April, and it tasted as good as fresh.

Phew, that is a big one............I am picturing it in my head right now.

If I could only pick two spoon patterns one for kings and one for steelhead......the Blue Mahi Glow Northport Nailer, and the DW Steelhead candy (modified as shown). I like a little glow in my patterns to help fish to find them in all light levels.....and so they hit it more accurately.

These are a few of my tape jobs......they all work. Should give you some ideas.