Fat Trout

I probably should have mentioned that. I got lucky in 2015 or 16 and found a 3600 yd spool on closeout and bought it immediately having used it for years and finding out it was discontinued. I have been living off of it since.....being heavy I don't change it off until removing worn sections with nicks take a reel spool low. It will be a sad day when its gone (soon) and I'll probably move to 30# blood run at that point. Flea flicker wasn't a great line for a # of reasons but serves its purpose and I understand the 30# blood run is pretty decent too.

It has been a long time since fleas came on the scene. 17 and 20# mainlines don't work (mid june till early august) at least for downriggers. Perhaps 20# bloodrun does better, I'm not sure. i have been running 30 # flea flicker (cortland) for years. On my brown rods(downrigger) I have a segment of that and 10# (whatever) after the part that hits the rigger clip. I have had no real problems for years. I'm sure 30# anything would do the same. I run braid divers and also have no real problems. Yes I get some fleas on all but you can either reel through it or slap your rod tip to diminish. I'm just adding my comment to say it has been years (decades) since 17# and even 20# regular mono became a problem on downriggers. It is what it is. Late June through early august are always this issue. When its at its worst you have to check lines a little more often. 30 min at worst for me and thats really more of a "hey let my try something else" anyway. No offense to those asking....its just kind of a reality. I don't even think of it anymore since I adapted accordingly.

A friend of mine had a leak he couldn't find on a 17' spectrum. It ended up being a crack in the hull that was mostly obscured by the bunk. Pressure from the bunk pushed along a hull stringer over time and created a crack. The way it sat on the trailer it didn't really leak when he filled the hull with water (not the same pressure inside to out as when it was floating and outside to in.

yes. This is what I have. 24 volt terrova. 72" shaft length....its worth the extra length for trolling in some moderate chop so that you don't cavitate when the bow goes up and down in the waves. 80lb thrust. I ran it on my Starweld 18 and now on my Fishmaster 196. works just dandy and plenty of run time. The autopilot can work nicely for bass too. I had a smaller I pilot on my little boat that I had for a while. it lets you follow a course along a weed edge or whatever or out in the lake over rock piles you can use spot lock etc.

Agreed on this. I never use the "advanced" when trolling. I also agree on your minimum of 4. I have a terrova 80 (24v) that I ran on an 18 ft starweld. Now on a Fishmaster 196. I get plenty of time running I run 4 to 5.5...perhaps 6....sure if its flat I can easily get away with 3. 9.9 kicker generally kept straight with perhaps slight main steering tweaks to help if there is a cross wind. I have never run out of battery provided I start with a full charge.

ah he is crazy but no more than the rest of us. flat calm and sunny is good for a dare.

I had 4 seasons on mine and that happened (x4d probe). I didn't ask for anything but perhaps should have inquired. Full last season without issue. That faulty probe is my backup as speed is still my #1 consideration. I hope the new one lasts. I did notice that on that probe which is a clear and fully encapsulated probe that I could see something "off" with the old probe compared to the new probe on a few connections...not a burn but a cloudy funk on some internal connections. Way back when my first fishhawk had a black probe, not clear. speed and temp only on the pre X4 .....used it forever. Here's to hoping the current one lasts longer than 4 years. PS I treat my Fishhawk probe better than my wife.

I have a 2018 I picked up late 2018. great boat. I keep getting comments mine looks like new. Take care of it and it will. An 18' x 24' tarp goes over the top perfectly and breaths really well like that. I made a set of 2x4 ridge frame beams from bow to high point at the windshield and down to the transom for winter. Dry and out of the sun when stored is key for these boats. Good luck!

I don't know what they are called but on my wire rods I have removed the first guide and replaced with the one that has the large spring and a plastic rod interface....see my photo. I have never had one have grooves form in them. I wish I could find a link. Local shops seem to have them. Its an easy install. careful use of a lighter and a needle nose pliers removes the old guide less is more on the heat.....too much heat and the rod blank goes wrong. Not the end....a careful use of a hack saw with fine blade or better a razor knife lets you break a new clean end.. Anything from the rod tip specific stick you can heat and use for "glue"....kind of like hot glue gun stuff works to also plane jane 2 part epoxy. replacing guides isn't super hard but you need some kind of slow turning motor for even epoxy. Like has been implied, I use low cost rods for that service. yeah I had a rods guides get eaten away too. Roller rods obviously can work fine but expensive. I have built a lot of rods. PM me if you want any help on wrapping guides. It seems hard but its really not that hard.

I'm curious what is worse. Lies or completely ignoring topics to act like they never happen because it hurts the narrative. I'm not saying Fox lies or CNN / others ignore fully for your agenda but I am saying don't piss on my back and tell me its raining. We all need to fact check our sources. Oh and yes, lets keep it about fishing please. I actually do agree with that.

@Yankee Trollerdo you still have these? Thinking about it. I have a pair of 5 yo digitroll 10's now and would like the tie in to the X4D.

Sale Pending

Offering my Sphar 1212 centerpin reel. $190 including shipping Spooled with 10# high vis line. No scratches. There is a little egg goo but I'll clean that off.