Sk8man

I believe catch and release is OK until season opener third Saturday in June. Haven't fished for them "on purpose" in years I think most of the largemouths will be found at the extreme north end of the lake from there.

Just a heads up on the bass. The season isn't open yet Well into June before it opens. Many of the perch may still be within 15 ft. of water right now. launch at Deans and head north all along the shoreline and keep your eyes open for schools. small jigs with minnow or spikes (maggots) fished either as drop shot or from pencil bobbers or drag the jig along bottom with small plastics. Drift until you find a school then stay out away from them and cast back toward them. Try to minimize noise especially when the anchor goes in if you anchor up near a school. The water can be quite clear much of the time so they spook easily. Hope for (and look for ) murky but not muddy water.

If Colicino (sp?) Electric is still in NewarK check with them. I used to get it there.

Don't overlook the canal right there in town. I used to operate the Main Street and Park Ave bridges when I went to college there. The section that is west of the Main Street bridge was best and it was just a matter of casting off the edge near the path that runs along it; It was best in the evening. crank baits or jigs with Mr. Twisters or Rattle Traps. Another place fairly nearby is Adams Basin near the bridge there. A few nice smallies there. It was a long time ago that I fished it but I have talked with people that live near there recently and the bass are still in there. It can vary from year to year though because sometimes they drain the canal for maintenance during the off season.

Nice going John

John - If memory serves me correctly the max recommended weight for the 10A's (which I have also) is 10 lbs. They are pretty slow even with the 10 lb weights....I'm thinking maybe if you've been using the 12 lb weights for some time the motor itself may be worn down too. I would imagine someone on here has some 10A 's with other problems perhaps and the motor is still intact. Might want to ask right in the classifieds. I enjoy your posts by the way.

There are a lot of really good charter captains on here and I'm sure that nearly any of them would be great sources of information if approached with that in mind. It could be helpful to formulate some questions in advance and let them know this in advance of the charter date and engage them in conversation when not actively engaged in critical activities (e.g. navigating in traffic, rigging equipment, making sonar adjustments etc.) Although this seems like common sense not everyone exercises the proper mutual respect these days

Good info... also on the west side near Canoga out from Parker Road where it starts dropping off (about 18 ft or so starts it probably stay to the north of it)

Have one custom made with supportive material over any stress points made from acrylic material and don't look back. Mine has been on for 17 seasons and still looks brand new. Sometimes you get what you pay for and this in one of those situations To keep it well protected and waterproof use 3M Scotchguard spray on it.

John Mann IS the man when it comes to canvas work. You won't find anyone better

In addition to the above check your sensitivity/gain setting on your display and if your transducer has been set up correctly on your particular hull. It also depends on the cone angle of your transducer and according to the depth the rigger is set at. For example if the cone angle is say 6 degrees (very narrow) and your downrigger is set just a few feet below the water surface it will not appear on the finder because the weight may be outside the cone angle.Even with a wider angle transducer with increased speed your rigger wire angle may push the weight outside the cone Generally he wider the cone angle the better you should see your rigger weight (s).Usually the higher the kilihertz of the transducer e.g. 200khz vs. 50 khz) the narrower the cone angle and the 200khz is best for 100 ft or less water. For everything to coincide properly to mark the rigger weight at trolling speeds, you have to have a completely intact transducer positioned properly on your particular transom or hull, have the sensitivity adjusted correctly, and perhaps the proper water type selected on some units). A 50 khz or 83 khz will usually mark the weights throughout deeper ranges better than a 200 khz at depths approaching or deeper than 100 ft of water. Sometimes the combination of boat speed and underwater current can also push the weight outside the range of the cone angle of the transducer. just a few things to think about P.S. Sometimes when a transducer craps out you can still mark hard bottom but fish or riggers don't appear.

Each of the species mentioned is temperature and pressure sensitive as well. In the end we need to do the best job we can for ANY released fish and hope for the best.No matter what method used it won't be foolproof in every situation with every fishbut at least if the fish is lost it is not due to "wonton waste".

Yep, but also good to be aware of other factors as well so the other comments fit the situation too Thanks for posting the article by the way.

Burping them would be preferred over "fizzing". I have long suspected that sticking a needle into the bladder (although done by many folks for years including me during my stillfishing days) probably only led to later death of the fish because if you think about it making a hole in the bladder probably takes time to heal (if ever). If the fish is using the bladder to control its ability to descend to depth and ascend it probably affects about everything it does (e.g. feeding, navigating etc.) and when released they may descend but also may possibly go right to the bottom too....who knows...

You can get away running say a 300 copper off the smaller walleye boards (if it isn't too rough water) but longer than that better to run from big boards if that is what is desired. With that said I run leadcores from walleye boards. and run a single copper down the chute in between the riggers with better results. I don't use any coppers longer than 300 ft and add weights where needed.