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Everything posted by Sk8man
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A million ways to do it but for the last 40 or 50 years I've tried most of them and then each time go back to "old school" stainless 7 strand 30-60 lb (60 a little better for fleas than the 30lb during the height of flea season) wire with a 30 lb mono rig line and I use 12 lb fluoro leaders attached with wire spring connectors at the rig end hooked to bead chain swivels on the mono rig line and ball bearing swivels on the lure end. I've experimented with different spacing as well and for the past 30 years (20-25 ft is most commonly used by others) but I have used 12 ft intervals for my 10 bead chains so that depending on the season and what I'm fishing for in particular or which lures I use I can adjust them for either the 12 intervals or 24 ft and still have room for a jug if I want to run it that way. That way I can go even into about 60 ft of water without getting hung up (12 ft intervals) or I can fish out deep and go deeper for lakers if I wish. Normally I only fish for lakers during derbies so I run my stuff toward the top 75 ft (especially the jug rigs) most of the time to avoid lakers).. Stainless wire cuts thorough the water much better than leadcore and dacron but not as well as braid but it is much more durable than either. I've had a couple of my rigs used with the same wire but different rig lines for over 30 years. You need to take care with crimps but other than that it is pretty foolproof. I use Penn 309's with power handles on 6 1/2 ft Roller rods. I use from 24 -40 oz weights depending on whether they are used as side or down rods or jug lines for rainbows/landlock or browns(24-32 oz). I generally run 3-4 rigs with 5 leaders each. In the old days we ran 4 rigs with 15 leaders each as the regs permitted it back then if single hooks were used on the spoons (max 15 points per line then not max 5 lures or leader as now). This would entail 2 side rigs and two jug rigs run in tandem about 50-150 ft apart. I also glue the rig line knot connections with Seal All glue to prevent possible knot failures. I coat all my sinkers with black Plasti Dip so that they don't mar up the boat and I don't have to actually handle lead (just in case I lose a fish and suck my thumb while upset) . The wire spring connectors I make myself and they are larger than the ones you can buy because they are easier to handle in cold weather especially with the beads I add for grip.If you are a Finger Lakes person and want to get set up using Seth Green rigs I suggest you check with Fishy Business near Keuka Lake State Park. He has all the stuff in his tackle shop and is very knowledgeable and heavily experienced with Seth Greens. Fishy is also here on Lou so contact him for current hours etc. In the bead chain pic you'll notice that there are different sizes and strengths of bead chains as well as a couple different types that employ clevices to attach your connector to so you need to know whether they will clear the rod tip and eyes. I use a threeway swivel at the very end of the rig line for the first leader to be attached as well as the sinker suspended about 2 ft on a 20-25 lb mono drop line (so if you get hung on bottom it will break away first saving the rest of your stuff) My thermoclining buddies Admiral Byrd and Hop (who are major ball busters) have somewhat different approaches which are just as successful and mine is only one way to do it.
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SETH GREEN RIGS LAKE ONTARIO
Sk8man replied to MEATMAN's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
Same here on the early eighties but luckily only a couple lakers. I got to thinking more about it when I got home and decided that it wouldn't be a great idea if a big king latched on and you're trying to handline him in on 12 lb test mono leader back then -
Streamers for Browns?
Sk8man replied to hookedupf7's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
I used to use them on both fly rods and spinning rods on Seneca and Owasco for rainbows and browns and they would have worked on landlocks but they were just starting to stock them on Seneca back then . Here are some of the ones that worked: I used small keel weights as described above or a couple large split shot trolled way behind the boat and making a lot of turns -
What I did back in the 70's to my home made boards was I made a sand mold (wet sand) heated up some lead and poured weights (relatively thin strip sized to the length and width of the boards) that I then screwed on to the bottom of the boards with stainless screws. You just have to measure the depth and width/length of the depression in the sand so that they will be equal weighted and sized properly by filling the depressions in the sand mold evenly and let cool completely. I then filed off any non linear protrusions and they fit nearly perfectly and kept the boards up right no matter the size of the waves etc.
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There is a hard rubber bushing in there too I wonder if it is split or broken?
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Wash them in Dawn dish soap and rinse them real well afterward
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Great pic. They are real show offs and when they come out of the pines they can scare the crap out of you too
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Tite Lok Triple Deck Mount
Sk8man replied to Emerald Esox's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
Emerald you have a PM -
Cannon Digi-Troll 2 downrigger, are they any good?
Sk8man replied to Todd in NY's topic in This Old Boat
That is a real good point about the difference between the autostop and short stop feature as the autostop on it doesn't always come totally to the surface or out of the water like the short stop and that can be important if you have a good fish near the surface as you can still get hung up on the weight just below the surface. I have the drag on my 10A's (non-short stop or autostop) set so that they can run all the way up to the tip of the riggers and then they just slip while there until I get to them....helps when fishing solo. -
I think the greatest thing about this website is the fact that folks can share info and opinions that allow others to react and offer additional insights....it is what learning is all about. For example the comments from hermit and 2lbperch are very illuminating and are more valuable pieces to add to the "puzzle". I guess a lot of us including me have mixed or conflicting feelings about some of these issues but it is important to discuss since we all have a vested interest in the environment and the fishery in particular. Divergent opinions and views are just as important to understanding as the "status quo" views and I guess a little tolerance for this goes a long way in either case. I for one feel that I have learned from this post and the views expressed and thanks to all who have interacted. It gives a lot to further think about.
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It works great for polishing with the walnut shells Ed but for painting you need just the opposite....roughed up surface
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Good idea Brian....steel wool does a good job too.
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Back in the sixties the weed beds were very thick and pervasive and the reason was that phosphates were present in large amounts coming into the lake and phosphate in that situation was thought to be coming from things like laundry detergents etc. emptying into the watershed. The phosphate was considered a biolimiting factor and basically served as a catalyst for rapidly accelerating photosynthesis and plant growth. Regulations were put in place to limit the use and dispersion of phosphates and the weed overgrowth reduced drastically over the span of many years and this effect was very noticeable at the north end of Seneca for example. From what I gather an important element of the current problem relates to a different substance (s) namely nitrogen and nitrates which also accelerate processes in the water such as algae growth. Thes chemicals are present in fertilizers of various types such as those used in farming and on residential and commercial lawns and maybe the vineyards as well. There are also pesticides being used all along the lakes both in farming and by wineries and lawns and especially because the terrain is very hilly and steep when it rains significantly this stuff runs off the ground surface into the lakes.It would seem to me that there should be regulations put in place to limit this problem by requiring any such activities to build barriers or burms along the edges of the properties to contain these run-offs at the very least. I know people don't like to hear the word regulations but in some cases such as this they become necessary as we can't rely on people's "good will" alone to protect us from the effects of this.....keep in mind that water treatment facilities can not filter out all of these contaminants either so it is seeping into the drinking supplies of many communities as well. Before anyone responds by calling me a "tree hugger" or "communist conspirator" these things are a matter of public record in a variety of places.
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The key thing in painting spoons that still have a glossy finish left on them is to use a good undercoat that will help the paint adhere to the metal. The clearcoat can also help after the main coat to keep it from peeling etc.
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Really cool thing to expose the kids to fireplug
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Captain Jim and Gambler have made some very relevant points to consider in the mix. We all have an emotional and financial investment in the NYS fishery and hopefully it is in that spirit we share ideas and info. Nobody has the final answer (s) to all these issues yet but at least getting things out on the table to look at and talk about is a start in the right direction. We do need to mutually respect each others views despite our differing opinions. I should also note that anyone who thinks they have the one and only answer is deluding themselves and the same goes for anyone who thinks they have the perch completely figured out because just when you think you've got it down they knock the puzzle pieces on the floor for you to put back together. Despite having a love for all the Finger Lakes Seneca has always been my favorite and considered my "home" lake as it was there I lived for over 50 years and I caught my first fish a 12 inch smallmouth black bass on July 3, 1949 in the Yacht Club bay when most of the folks reading this were not even a twinkle in their parents eye or perhaps their parents weren't even born yet. Even Meatman wasn't around yet so maybe the passion I have for the lake does color my thinking a bit
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Down east salty rod holder on a Scotty downrigger
Sk8man replied to krawler's topic in Tackle and Techniques
I think you might have a couple of problems right off the bat. One you'd have to have a workable mount and although they make several I don't think any would be great for that application and two It would be a problem getting the right angle while still keeping the rod secure. I'd sure be using a safety line n the rods if you go that route. I think I'd be either using some PVC pipe with end caps and making my own (tubular type holders) or getting regular downrigger mounts if it were me. -
Cannon Digi-Troll 2 downrigger, are they any good?
Sk8man replied to Todd in NY's topic in This Old Boat
I have a Digitroll ii and they do have autostop and it works fine just as do my Mag 10A's despite years of use (but not abuse). They are very good downriggers and reliable despite not being speed demons







