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TyeeTanic

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Everything posted by TyeeTanic

  1. TyeeTanic
    Smart Troll. It's better than anything else out there because of it's versatility. You can put a probe on any rigger (you can put a probe on each rigger if you want), or on any dipsey or flatline rod to get a true depth and temp on each line. Speed probe is also available to go on rigger lines. You can see 6 probes at once. I like using 2 to see the top and bottom of the preferred temp range. That gives me a really good indication of what range to feed my lines in.
  2. TyeeTanic
    Uni to uni.
  3. TyeeTanic
    Are you thinking of flatlining the wire, instead of using copper? I would not recommend this. I tried it for 2 seasons, based on findings that wire sinks at a fairly good rate. But the end result is we NEVER caught fish off the flatline wire. I mean, technically it works, I was getting to 30 ft deep with 150 ft of line out, but for some reason I was not getting any bites. Copper will produce way more than a flat wireline. I would keep the wireline for dipsey setups, as others have pointed above. The other option is to add leadcore to the mix. This setup does produce when fish are hanging in the top 40 ft.
  4. TyeeTanic
    No, not like a dipsey snubber. Scott makes a snubbed made for downrigger weights. It's much thicker than a dipsey snubber.
  5. TyeeTanic
    Definitely BB swivels. When you start getting spin doctors and meat rigs out there, you will definitely end up with line twist unless you use a good quality BB swivel. If you get a fish on, it could be even worse.
  6. TyeeTanic
    We use a snubber between the cable and ball. It also: (1) takes shock/stress off the gunwales, especially in bouncy seas. (2) will break off if you have a snag, and save your expensive probe (which is mounted above the snubber) from being lost.
  7. TyeeTanic
    There's a few choices, but you don't want to get something that is going to break, or you will need to replace in 1 or 2 years from now. So you want to balance quality and cost. For that I would recommend Okuma Convector 30D reels for everything except copper. If you can afford it, I would get the following: 2 x 9' Trolling Rods with metal guides - like the Talora Copper Rod. These will be good for leadcore or copper (in future). I would put 5 color leadcore on one rod and 7 color leadcore on the other. These will be used on your inline planer boards. I suggest TX-44 boards, and change to the church tackle lock-jaw clip. I would also get a 4 oz, 6 oz and 12 oz torpedo diver to put on the backing of your leadcore lines to get deeper in the summer time. This will allow your leadcores to reach the same depth as copper line (and more). Here's a picture of the metal guides you are looking for in these rods: http://www.fishusa.com/assets/product_images/150030000/Views/200-1.jpg I would then get between 2 and 4 wireline rods. One pair around 8 ft., the other pair 9 or 10 ft. These rods will have roller guides and a swivel tip. You should put 1000 ft of 7 strand wire on these rods. They are great for dipsey divers. Here's a picture of the roller guides you are looking for in these rods: http://www.fishusa.com/assets/product_images/15002051/Views/200-2.jpg Alternatively, instead of roller guide rods, you can get some more rods with metal guides for the wire line rods, but you will have to replace your tip with a twillie tip, to avoid kinking the wire. This will be cheaper than a roller guide rod, but will at least be decent quality. Here is a picture of a twillie tip. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/130850968973-0-1/s-l1000.jpg
  8. TyeeTanic
    Convector 30D is a great reel.I've had mine for years and no problems.
  9. TyeeTanic
    No snubbers needed. Save your money, buy a spoon instead. We rarely lose fish and use rods without snubbers. I don't think the non-stretch wireline is a realistic reason to warrant snubbers.
  10. TyeeTanic
    Wait, if he doesn't have all the copper out, won't the copper kink bad on the top eyelet, unless he has a twillie tip?
  11. TyeeTanic
    For sure 100' is not enough on an 8 lb weight, no doubt. The blowback will be VERY big if you were trying to get the rigger down say 80 ft or more. I wouldn't be surprised if you needed to put out 120 ft + of cable to get down 80ft.
  12. TyeeTanic
    Nothing beats Maui Jim's. They are the best sunglasses I've had, hands down. I still on 3 pairs of ray bans and many other fishing glasses, but the Maui's are crystal clear and comfortable.
  13. TyeeTanic

    Hello

    TyeeTanic replied to Lucius's topic in Introduce Yourself

    welcome.
  14. TyeeTanic
    Unless you have a polaroid and scan in an old style photo.
  15. TyeeTanic
    Pictures will all be date stamped within their code.
  16. TyeeTanic
    I think we caught this young one last year, not sure.
  17. TyeeTanic
    Definitely fish. When the arch is thin like that, but you have a deep color return, it's a fish. Were there waves out there when you took these pictures? Waves could change the shape of the arch, or the fish could be changing its depth, right under your sonar.
  18. TyeeTanic
    I agree you don't need a flag to tell you a fish is on. I wouldn't be too concerned about that. What is your backing, braid?
  19. TyeeTanic
    Well that sucks. I can still get NK in some shops. Like Sail in Ontario ... they still have a big selection.
  20. TyeeTanic
    Spro swivels are REALLY good, but also very expensive. I still use them though.
  21. TyeeTanic
    You don't need all that stuff. Either your wire kinked or your knot is no good. Use this knot, I've had this knot on some of my wires for 4 years, and no problems. I've never snapped my wire. Make sure you keep your wire under tension always, and avoid pigtail kinks. Inspect your knot and retie if necessary. http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm On the above, I tie the overhand knot first before I connect the snap swivel. And use a good snap swivel, with ball bearings like spro.
  22. TyeeTanic
    You will learn a lot as an observer at tournaments. The pressure is on for guys to catch fish, so they will use every trick under their sleeve. Back to specifics - how long were your leads? How deep (water depth) were you? How deep were your spoons? What color spoons? What leader are you using on your rods?
  23. TyeeTanic
    I would try running a 5th or 6th line. You could try 4 rigger rods (stacked on each rigger, about 20 to 30ft apart). You could try 4 dipsey divers (setting 1 and 3, starboard and port). You could try a leadcore or copper, or even leadcore/torpedo off inline planer boards. 8# ball will have lots of blowback. To get down 90 ft, you will need probably all 150 ft of cable out, maybe more, depending on speed and currents. YOU CANNOT TRACK BALL DEPTH WITH YOUR GRAPH. Sorry MarkMonkey1, that is not correct. The graph tells you how far the ball is away from the transducer, that is not the same thing as depth. If you could hang your weight from your transducer using a string 100 ft long the graph will tell you it's 100 ft deep. Take that string and pull the weight back behind the boat and start swinging it up (blow back), the graph will still tell you it's 100 ft deep, because that's how far the weight is from the transducer. If you want true depth, you need to have a depth measurement device. It won't matter if you only want to get down 40 ft or so, but deeper than that, the blowback makes a huge difference on actual ball depth.
  24. TyeeTanic
    A spin doctor/fly setup will be the leading setup for taking fish in late June to mid-August. I would not exclude this setup from my arsenal.
  25. TyeeTanic
    Yes, 15 lb's is enough if fleas aren't a problem. I've landed 25 lb kings on 8 lb lines (center pin rod). It takes forever to bring them in, but it's possible. I wouldn't use 15 lbs on the lake for 2 reasons - (1) fleas are a problem and they will grab onto that line size. (2) It takes longer to get the fish in, and that puts the fish in greater distress - so unless you plan on keeping it, you have to think of the mortality rate if fish is put under stress for longer periods.
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