Knotlost Charters

I like interlux products (just a personal preference no slam on any others) So I would call and talk to a tec. They are experts at it and always have helped me out. You know by the way when your calling them you're talking to a pro and not a salesman who was "told" but a guy who develops paint and works with it 5 days a week making sure it works the best it can. You have a lot of variables that you need to talk to them about.

With my copper is all backed with braid, so when my copper is out almost all the time the braid is out 60 to 100 yards (so you have to allow for this when selecting what copper to run) If I want to move it because of fish on another pole, I pick the pole up and move it to the opposite side of boat way up high on the cabin (pole holder there for this purpose), and the line will lift out of the water almost to the copper (pole is almost straight up tip of pole on my boat is probably 15 feet from water) . You will have from 30 feet to 70 feet depending on many factors of clear water, but this will not work with bad pole handling, the fish needs to be controllable (some are not no matter what) if i see that's going on, it comes in.

You should get a couple of dipsy/ slide divers and learn them. Stop there, limit your spread to a couple of downriggers max and 2 slide divers and learn that set up really well. When you can run that and get no tangles then add something down the middle like weighted steel or copper, lead etc that will depend on the depth you are looking for. For me in rough weather riggers are not as good as slid divers and long lines (sometimes in rough weather I don't even use riggers), calm weather is different again with a different set of goals. Remember each boat is different and what works is very different on each boat. They handle different, move different, waves effect them differently as does wind affect them differently. Captains drive them different, one guy 3 mph can be your 2.5 and that is a big deal sometimes. Learn yours, and develop your own game. Riggers are the easiest to run, then slide divers next, and copper is the wicked devil from hell for beginners, but it catches fish so you need to learn it eventually (maybe try weighed steel I hear is good) . Have a learning plan, don't go at it willy-nilly you will not get anywhere fast. (don't run copper and lead together when starting out, they are like two horny teenagers that will intertwine in ways you can't believe ) Learn each system separately and how it works. You will accomplish more in a few years than other do in 4X the time. Reread the posts above, there is a common thread more is not better..... Learn to visualize your spread both in-depth width and length. For example, a copper 600 feet out, is not closely related to a downrigger that's 20 feet off the ball. If the copper fires and the rigger don't, can you get another copper in? With no tangles? do you need a board or just run them offsides? Or can you get a slider to the same place and get them to hit that as well? Or maybe if you don't have another copper, will a torpedo on a lead line, will that do it? If you catch a fish on (whatever) and it tangles in the other lines and you lose it, the whole spread needs to be re-thunk. these are the "skills" to work on, but you can't with a shotgun approach.

Horrible how bad they are. Army corps of engineers can’t help? Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

One is brand new one was used a couple of times but is in like new condition, heartland trolling rod seven-foot great poles. . Only reason I'm selling is I needed a longer pole. HLD-LC Medium line is from 18-17 pound ceramic guides. $100 for both and I will ship for shipping cost.

You need to get that foam out it is holding water against the flooring, probably waterlogged as well. Fiberglass, by the way, is water permeable, epoxy is not .

That will do it, you have electrolysis going on. You need to check the wiring and make sure its proper, they probably removed a bilge pump and just didn't disconnect-connect the wires. You can grind the bad spots down and prime with some good barrier coat primer and paint. its a pain in the neck but easy fix. Make sure paint is suitable for alum boats. I like the interlux stuff.

Sold pending receipt of funds.

Tried a few time to get in touch no answer....

I am guessing around 5 years old and no binding that I can tell it works perfectly.

I'm selling my working Raymarine smartpilot X5-R auto pilot. This is for the complete autopilot, everything included. What is included is the helm, a ST70 control head, the course computer, flux gate compass, and the cable talk wiring for a complete install. It has all the documentation and I believe I even have the original boxes (but I would need to look if you want them). What’s better is this unit is still installed on my boat and is working so you can come and look at it work, and see how its installed yourself. You can even help uninstall it if you want a working knowledge of how to install it into your boat. Some info from the Raymarine site…. The Raymarine SPX-5R pilot is a helm mounted autopilot designed for use on small sports and fishing boats typically up to 9.2 m (30 ft) in length. Suitable for use with fixed and tilt helms, the pilot consists of a drive unit that fits over your existing steering wheel shaft, a course computer with a rate gyro for precise course keeping and control head with large LCD information display. Mechanical steered boats – up to 4,400 lbs (2,000 kg) Hydraulic steered boats – up to 7,000 lbs (3,181 kg) $700.00 cash or $725.00 Credit card.