piratesholly

Spring Browns

46 posts in this topic

On 3/22/2017 at 9:50 PM, insufishent said:

Really surprised nobody mentioned running evil eyes and old honey bee spoons they are hard to beat spring fishing for brown trout along with a single hook you can literally bounce them off rocks and they hardly ever snag bottom.

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Honeybee spoons are still available and are a year round staple for the Lake Champlain guys.

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One or two color led core down the chute with stingers or evil eyes always produce my biggest fish when targeting browns inside of 15 fow.

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   WHAT are we doing wrong?  We are fishing the lures, line size, depth of water, doing what every one here suggests  But we end up with 2-4  browns & 1-2 lakers.  Then I see here that other guys fishing the same area are getting 15-20+ fish a day!  My speed is usually 1.8- 2.3.  Any ideas for us? thanks in advance!  We are ready to take up checkers!. lol

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Do s turns to help give your lures extra action. We got a lot of bites this weekend on our outside board on the turns.

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If your gettin bit on turns it's just speed. If your getting bit on the outside they want it faster. If your inside rods are getting bit they want it slower. Always pay attention to your speed when your getting bites this can be the one difference between lighting them up or only getting a bite here and there.

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Dave we had the same thing happen with us, came down to speed. Hits on the outsides on the turns told us to speed up. Once we did that rods were popin!

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I rarely have a day when fish want it slower than 2mph and I have had great days going much faster. When the fish tell you what they want it makes it easy it's when you can't buy a bite that makes it hard.


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Probably the least understood factor in trolling with spoons is how important is the connection of the lure to the line.

1.Tying the line direct to a front ring.

2. Tyling the line to a duo-lock snap and removing the front ring

3. Attaching the snap to the front ring which requires  the most speed of all.

This pertains to all spoons ... not just HONEYBEES.

See http://www.tamiron.com/Articles.asp?ID=257

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Posted (edited)

51 minutes ago, tamiron said:

Probably the least understood factor in trolling with spoons is how important is the connection of the lure to the line.

1.Tying the line direct to a front ring.

2. Tyling the line to a duo-lock snap and removing the front ring

3. Attaching the snap to the front ring which requires  the most speed of all.

This pertains to all spoons ... not just HONEYBEES.

See http://www.tamiron.com/Articles.asp?ID=257

Thanks for pointing that lure connection out to me a few years ago jim!  Matty and I smoked the Kings at the bar.  Large & mag  bees with ring cut off and ran with the snap.  Headed home tomorrow.  Took a few browns and cohos on a small size bee in pink!.  Old school greens and chartreuse ruled

Edited by hairbone

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Most lures I've found run better without the ring on the stick, remove the split ring and go with a #2 duo lock!!! Hooked right on the front loop. Try it you won't be disappointed.

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Probably the least understood factor in trolling with spoons is how important is the connection of the lure to the line.
1.Tying the line direct to a front ring.
2. Tyling the line to a duo-lock snap and removing the front ring
3. Attaching the snap to the front ring which requires  the most speed of all.
This pertains to all spoons ... not just HONEYBEES.
See http://www.tamiron.com/Articles.asp?ID=257


Very interesting info. so you recommend at speeds of 2.3 mag spoons to run snap to spoon without split ring?

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  Great info. thanks!  I think we are going too slow.   We check the action of our lures next to the boat, does that action change the deeper it goes?  So as long as the lure doesn't spin out it should be good correct?

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Yes ... if you don't go deep enough to be affected by current  ... which may  be down at 30 or more feet! If you raise your fish hawk to the surface and check the action of the spoon behind the Fish Hawk at keep track of that speed, you will get the best measurement of action at the ball when you send the lure down behind the fish hawk. Star at a peed slower than you think your lure should be run at, and gradually increase speed, and or change direction, until you are more productive, the try to keep duplicating that speed. If your boat is going exactly the same speed as your friend next to you are your lures acting the same? Absolutely not, if the weight of your line is different, or using vs. not using snaps and or snap swivels, or leaders are different, or delivery method is different, or size or type of hook  is different Etc., Etc.  Standardize your line weight and type, your method of attachment (snaps, etc.), everything possible and you will be a far more successful anglerl, because every lure in your pattern will be given a chance to perform properly. Having 8 lures in the water that are not all working together is severely reducing your odds.

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On 5/4/2017 at 7:26 PM, tamiron said:

This pertains to all spoons ... not just HONEYBEES.

Mr Tamiron, I'm wondering if I use only a duo-lock snap with no ring on my spoon, do I need a barrel swivel few feet before the spoon to prevent line twist? 

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Is it advisable to run spin drs/flashers or anything in front of spoons?

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20 hours ago, Crestliner1850 said:

Mr Tamiron, I'm wondering if I use only a duo-lock snap with no ring on my spoon, do I need a barrel swivel few feet before the spoon to prevent line twist? 

If I were to run a barrel swivel at any time it would be at least  5'-6' away from lure with tag ends left on the barrel swivel at the tie points. Is it necessary? At the above distance, it probably will help more than hurt. I tie direct to the front eye on our Honeybees. Can't ever remember of  ever having a twist from a clean lure (without debris). That being said if you take the front ring off and use a snap wit a barrel swivel, in line, line. Should be fine. I would never recommend for another product without testing it ad that won't happen much anymore. Check the url (http://www.tamiron.com/Articles.asp?ID=257) for what happens at various speeds and methods of attachment of Honeybees and try to use the same logic on other products.

 

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20 hours ago, stoneam2006 said:

Is it advisable to run spin drs/flashers or anything in front of spoons?

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Not unless the attractor is sufficiently far enough way from  the spoon so as the action of the spoon is not impaired by the attractor. I have been successful with a small dodger in line up from the spoon about 4 feet. Most people use attractors to add action or movement to what follows behind ( implying little or no action without attractors )

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On 5/12/2017 at 6:56 PM, tamiron said:

If I were to run a barrel swivel at any time it would be at least  5'-6' away from lure with tag ends left on the barrel swivel at the tie points. Is it necessary? At the above distance, it probably will help more than hurt. I tie direct to the front eye on our Honeybees. Can't ever remember of  ever having a twist from a clean lure (without debris). That being said if you take the front ring off and use a snap wit a barrel swivel, in line, line. Should be fine. I would never recommend for another product without testing it ad that won't happen much anymore. Check the url (http://www.tamiron.com/Articles.asp?ID=257) for what happens at various speeds and methods of attachment of Honeybees and try to use the same logic on other products.

 

I always used a barrel swivel with snap direct on my spoon and lots of them has a split rig on the front eye. It is certain that I am going to try this method. Thanks.

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The method of connection can be compensated for by a slight increase or decrease in speed. It is the action of the lure that's critical, not the speed of the boat. If the lure is running properly for the speed you are running don't change anything.

But two boats traveling in the same direction at identical speeds can have different lure action based on method of connection, line weight, delivery system, a "bent" lure, distance from the ball, etc, etc . 

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Tamiron, those videos are very cool! How did you construct your testing tube and how are you gauging the speed?

 

Thanks for the connection tips!

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