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Everything posted by Shakemsam

  1. I left the area for home on the 17th. It was real slow. It is low...so low that most of the problem areas are above water. Just keep your eyes open.
  2. That would explain a lot, as the dinks are pretty warm to the touch and the few keepers are ice cold..all while being in the same depth. The bigger fish are slooowly coming in shore.
  3. Columbus Day week is my annual trip up for perch fishing and I don't remember it this slow. Generally my main stay is a drift between Peos and Dodge Bay's. Still the most productive for me but only a result in about 20 eaters in the past 5 days. Even made a run to the breakwall at the Cape, with not even a bite! Also drifted Carlton and Linda with same result. Still...I wouldn't be anywhere else this week. You folks up here are so blessed!
  4. Here ya go! Looks like it might have been a Wellcraft hull. http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/index.php?title=Lightning
  5. Not an MFG! I owned a 71 Gypsy and the outside strakes of the bow hull were flat, not sharp. A lot of boats in the 80's were what we called XYZ boats. Company's that bought the molds from out of business boat builders from the 70's and through a name on it.
  6. x2 For years only ran the carb and fuel lines dry. Now just stabil or seafoam.
  7. The only reason to ever turn in plates was to have a receipt to show your insurance agent that the vehicle was not on the road. no need with a trailer.
  8. No personal experience with OMC I/O's. But I believe the general consensus was stay away if you can. Parts are pricier and harder to find than merc. The Cobra's were a better outdrive than previous versions but still not merc. An outboard bracket would be an interesting project. Since you are rebuilding the transom anyway, that's the direction I would go.
  9. Could be charger...but why two of them. My guess riggers. But riggers were never 110....they just used the plugs and wired them 12v.
  10. Marine grade plywood preferably coated with an epoxy. Lots of videos on Youtube
  11. The floor is either screwed or riveted to aluminum bracing.
  12. Thanks Tyee for the reply. It seemed to always happen when bringing in the outside diver, which is really odd because there was a 30 ft difference between depth, with the outside running in the top 30. The outside rods were divers and spoons while the insides had flasher and flys. Always on the Starboard side, regardless of speed or direction. I wonder about maybe after popping the diver on the retrieve, letting out some line bring it closer to the surface and then bringing them up the middle, like I do with boards....
  13. I generally run Chinook #5's set at 1.5 on wire and #3's on braid set at 4, for my spread. Due to a loss of a #5 earlier this year and none being available, this weekend..I resorted to a #4 on the inside with a #2 on the outside. It didn't take long before they got together. No matter what I did, there was no way of keeping them apart. The wire divers are 7' rods up and out at 45 degrees while the braid is 9' at a flat 90 degree. Any ideas?
  14. Fished out of the Genny today. 110-150. Good temps 55-65 ft. Marked some bait and a few loners. No takers!
  15. I believe Yam recommends 87 for the the newer 250. I would drain the bowls and change the filters, top it off with eth free and add some stabill or lucas. Run and repeat!
  16. Running a MG Xi5 with a Yam 9.9 on a 19' Sea Nymph. Works fine as an AP on anything less than a 2' chop. above that and it's tough. Shaft length on the bow is really important. mine is 60" and 72" would be better.
  17. The HT on a Sabre is pretty much a structural piece. If there is a negative about those hulls, it is that they flex A LOT! The HT absorbs that flex. I also had the longer HT with the full length windows. I'm sure that contributed to the stress I had vs yours. Still....I would get it welded considering the damage you had. Check locally for a welder. Lots of guys would come to the boat. It's only a 15 min job.
  18. Weld it! My 24 Sabre had stress cracks in the same areas.
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