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Everything posted by Gill-T
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I thought a lack of power supplied to the riggers might be an issue. I was told it was most likely not an amperage issue. I have two batteries hooked up to a perko battery switch with the switch on "both" so plenty of juice.
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Thanks for the link.
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That is how my problems started. A couple of blow fuses (correct size), then freezing. Sometimes the ball would go down.....some times it would not. Sometimes it came up....sometimes it didn't. Lots of fun hand rolling the rigger spool when there is a 15 lb weight 100' down there and rigger dies. To be honest I never contacted Cannon directly as I do not have the time to sit on hold and deal with the issue during business hours. I believe there is only a three month warranty on the units. I wish they had odometers on them as this might help prove how little they were used. The overhaul from manual to electric was performed during the offseason so by the time the riggers are actually used come spring they are already out of warranty. Again, these were NEW everything except the bases, and booms. One of the spools I ugraded to a stainless model so even one of those was new.
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I really didn't want to get into a pissing match about this and to be honest I was undecided about posting it in the first place. I wanted to leave Screwy Louies out of it as they perform the service and don't make the product. My beef is with Cannon. In speaking to Brennan at Screwie Louies he wanted me to explain the problem is not with Cannon motors, but the mother boards on Mag 10 units hauling up 15 lb rigger balls.
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Rick, are you replacing your riggers every year like a lot of captains? I know nothing about the difference in the motors between the Mag 10's and the STX. These were aluminum base Unitrols that I converted to electric with new Mag 10 motors. Repairs were done at Screwie Louies.
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Paper has a way of getting moldy on a boat. Keep it on the shore that way you will never forget it.
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New high speed.
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A cautionary tale regarding Cannon Mag 10 mother boards. After blowing the mother boards on two cannon riggers from LIMITED usage of one year of fishing I thought I would post information to help others with similar problems or someone on the fence about what brand of downrigger to buy. The specs on these motors say they can handle 15 lb weights. Cannon is not standing behind their product as there is a $160 bill per fix. I was told the problem was the grease used was too thick causing too much resistance and overload. Now, it appears it to be an issue with the mother boards not being able to handle 15 lb weights. I was told to switch to 12 lb weights........ . For a weekend warrior I would expect a DECADE of service out of a rigger. Frustrating..........rant over.
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Bayliner? Original scuppers are Perko with neoprene flaps. Not sure why they would be plugged? If your floor is above the waterline you will not get water in your boat from them. Use your spraydown with piece of mind.
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Big boards or inlines. The guys really dialed in to the leadcore bite are using 5 or 7 colors and just adding weight in front of the leader half-hitched with a rubber band. For your rig you should have no problem running 3 inlines per side. The outside leadcore should be the higher running lines and work in your deeper-longer leadcore closer to the boat. Microcore like Tuf-line is 27lb and due to the small diameter will fit on smaller reels. You can use what you learn on Erie to fish Ontario the same way. If you want to speed your learning curve, book a charter with Capt. Pete Alex out of Erie. He gives tutorial charters and will teach you while you fish.
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Have a DEC Angler's Log Book in each of the boat launch buildings found on the South shore. When anglers come in they record what was caught and approximate weight. Don't need anything more specific.
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Braid and dipsy divers
Gill-T replied to fish-on's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
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Braid and dipsy divers
Gill-T replied to fish-on's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
It takes skill and a little luck landing a major on wire. Having zero stretch, you have zero room for a mistake. If the drag is set too tight.....if the fish is horsed in......if the fight goes too long......if the amount of tissue being held by the hook is too small.....all reasons for a lost fish. Try loosening the drag a little, slowing down the boat near the end of the fight. Sorry if you already do these things.....just suggestions to consider. There is no stretch in braid either. -
I don't think anyone likes to have their voice discounted. It makes you feel less of a person. We as fishermen have had VALID concerns about the apparent out-of-balance Alewife population we have seen since 2012. Many have told DEC officials at the state of the lake meetings of our observations......and they were discounted. We have told DEC officials about the dangers of having only one primary fish hatchery.......and we were discounted. Now we have seen and will see some of our worst fears realized. Problems at the hatchery .......happening. Problems with too many alewives..........see also dead Steelhead in the Salmon River........happening. We would like the DEC to be proactive instead of reactive. The purpose of the state of the lake meetings is a coming together of the two sides and maybe sharing ideas........so listen to us as we have no reason to make false statements. Lets hope the out-of-balance bait levels due to less then adequate King stocking levels does not result in a crash due to a lack of plankton to support the high numbers. It would take years to recover. I can hear it now...."we are lessening King stocking now that the bait has crashed".........ugh!!!
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Braid and dipsy divers
Gill-T replied to fish-on's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
1). Fireline fused has a black waxy coating on it that tastes terrible and the fleas don't like it. A braid rod with Fireline fished side-by-side to a wire rod will have LESS fleas on it. However, they are harder to remove. With wire you can remove most of the fleas by reeling in the line and having your roller tip "cut" them off. With braid you have to whip/slap the line against the surface tension of the water as you are bringing in the last 50' of line in to knock the fleas off. 2). When tying braid make sure you pass the line thru the eye of the dipsy swivel twice before tying an Improved Cinch knot so it doesn't slip. Make an overhand knot in the tag end of the knot and burn the line up to the knot to keep it from fraying. 3). Make sure you put the braid onto your reel TIGHT under pressure to keep it from digging into itself. As maintenance, periodically send your dipsy 800' back and reel the line in under tension to keep it from digging into itself. -
Hostess Twinkies have been discontinued.
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Why isn't Arkansas pronounced Ar-Kansas?
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The conception the the SWR is some "magical" new fangled method that confuses fish into submission is wrong. Two colors of lead will only add 8' of depth to your presentation. Add a spinny.....even less. You could do the same thing with a couple of large split shot. In the world of salmon and trout over deep water 8' is NOTHING. What is 8'? Just look up to your ceiling. A fish can easily see and move on a bait 8' above. I think the SWR "perceived" success is owed to the fact that the 2 colors allows for a longer set-back off the downrigger ball.....more stealthy moving the lure away from the disturbance of the rigger ball and the noise of the boat.......that is it IMO. Ok....commence roasting my take.