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Everything posted by rolmops
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If kicker is mounted on transom next to main outboard, you might be able to put a link across the front between the two motors. There is a very good and cheap bar that goes between the outboard fronts on the insIde of your boat. Both Panther and Sterns make them. It is a simple bar with quick connectors.
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try this: http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/55405-merry-christmas/ That will enable you to send him a pm
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The blocks are the same size. Just make sure that the outdrive has the proper gear ratio for the engine that you plan on getting. There probably is a difference in the way the manifold connection to the exhaust looks. Yours is sort of rectangular and (upside down) U-shaped,while the newer 3 liter blocks have a round exhaust connection that does not go straight back but is offset at about 45 degrees. You will have to use the old engine u-shaped connection. It will either fit on as is or you will need an adapter. But before you buy,you may want to get in touch with L&M (Hank). He does magical things with cracked blocks. When you remove the block you have a very good opportunity to check the transom.
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Your outboard should charge those batteries if they are hooked up the right way. Although,if you are running 24 volts on your trolling motor, it does get a bit complicated As for the Minnkota battery charger,it works like any other battery charger. It needs to be plugged in to a 110 volt outlet
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Does your current engine charge batteries? Or do you have a pre 1972 magneto engine? I'm asking this because I'm trying to find out whether you want to keep your batteries charged over the winter,or whether you are looking to add an alternator/generator to your engine?.
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I think your lead stayed in front of the geese. The slower the target moves the more you have to fire straight at your target. The speed of your lead makes the wind effect negligable,unless it takes more that 3 seconds to reach your target, or so they taught me in the army. LOL they also taught me to shoot 7 lengths ahead of an incoming jet fighter, but I never hit one.
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Another more elegant solution is a different propeller. I would presume that a 19 footer with a 4.3 I/O has a prop with 19 or 21 pitch. For every point you go down in pitch you need an extra 200 rpm to come to the same speed. So If you go down to a 14 or 15 pitch you should be able to troll at 800rpm. Just be very careful opening her up because you will find that she may rev up to 6000+ rpm and that may blow the engine. This propeller /rpm thing is a bit more involved ( I ignored weight,hull type,draft ) than I just described so there is really no exact number but it will work. So if you just want to troll and are not interested in racing you should be good.
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Dependent on the quality of the plywood, yes. Of course solid oak or locust is nothing to joke about,but the strength in plywood is in the grain of the different plies going in different directions,where solid wood grain is in only one direction leaving it open to lengthwise cracks that may eventually split the stringer length wise.
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Solid wood seems great,but it is not as good 2 six ply 3/4 inch glued together and properly epoxied. The same goes for the transom. Those 12 plies provide great flexibility and even greater strength. Just make sure to use dense plywood such as marine,although nowadays there are other very dense plywoods which are just as good when properly epoxied and less than half the price. You may be tempted to use pressure treated,but for what you need it is no good. The best tool for checking out boats is a sharp pointy knife. just stick it in the floor ,the stringers and the transom. If it goes in deep ,you know that there is a lot of work .
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If you put a strong support on the inside you will probably have the liquid seep down into the cracks. I would mix some powder in and let it seep down from above while having some tape on the bottom to make sure that you will not have bumps underneath.But not being there, I can't make a proper judgement call. Whatever way you go,as long as you strengthen and overlap the cracks,the rest is just cosmetics.
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Don't worry about the fiberglass being attached to whatever it may be. The fiber glass around that stringer probably has a thousand cracks that are invisible,but still large enough for water to get in. You should count on most of the wood inside being rotten so get rid of it. Also,put 2 layers of epoxy paint on the new stringer wood before you glass it in, so even if the fiberglass around it cracks again(and it will) the wood itself will not rot
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Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you Hank Cornelis.
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It is websites like this one and magazines like the In-Fisherman that sing the glory of a good lake. Once that is done ,the crowds are not far behind. The best way to save our fish is to be tight lipped or spread stories about how the fishing collapsed. So please friends,if you want to save your lake,make sure to write about getting skunked repeatedly and how you think about selling your boat and taking up gardening instead.







