rolmops

You must have had a great time. Did you see any signs of previous release or creek damage?

That is correct,but very often in the alloys being used a small quantity of iron is added to increase conductivity

I do not want to start giving organic chemistry sermons ,but out of the three, zinc is the only ferrous metal alloy. the other two are non ferrous (not metal) Magnesium and aluminum have a very different ionic charge difference with water and magnesium by its very nature decays faster.I am not so sure if aluminum does has any quality has an anode. At least magnesium and zinc do the same job equally good. The fact that magnesium decays faster has to do with the character of the material and not with the quality of the job they do.

Electrolysis mostly happens in salt water or on docks that have boats hooked into shore power. If you have your boat on a trailer you really do not have to worry about any of that stuff.

You can add a bracket holder on the outside as well and interconnect the bracket holders with fasteners right through the transom. That will allow you to make it less than perfect. It should make it even better and you can just leave the bracket on your engine and slide it in and out instead of first removing the engine and then the bracket.

At first I thought you meant an F15,but then I saw the picture.

BUT, It is very easy to turn this into a short shaft and you do not need a package to do so. All you need is a shorter driveshaft,a shorter shift rod,a shorter bolt and a shorter water pipe. The standard driveshaft # 03234634 $259.99 The standard shift rod # 0324620 $132 The standard bolt #0316440 $9.99 Standard cooling waterpipe # just shorten yours by 5 inches. These are the part numbers and new prices .Although I would never buy for that price,mostly because these parts are easily available on E-bay or Craigs list for vey much less. If somebody has an old 7.5 horse that does not work,you might even get it for free. So my advice would be to do some scavenging and turn yours into a short shaft. Your long shaft parts are valuable and not only should these parts pay for the short shaft pieces,they should get you $50 to a $100 dollars more than the standard pieces that you are looking for. Bill Mayer in Webster at Mayers Marina probably has all the parts you need. his phone #is 585-323-1010 Good luck!

I would start out by making sure that this Evinrude is either a 20 inch or a 23 inch long shaft ( older Johnson /evinrudes would have a 23 inch measurement)and also confirming that the boat transom is 15 inches or something different. Next I would make a slide over bracket that sits on top and around the transom. This would be made of a center piece that is either 5 or 8 inches high,the width of your current transom plate (12 inches?) and the thickness of your transom (1.5 inches?) On each side of this center piece I would put a metal plate (stainless?)of 12 inch width by either 15 or 18 inch height and 1/4 or 3/8 inch thickness..It should be bolted together with 4 or 6 fasteners and painted very well so no water can get into the wood center This bracket should slide over your transom and if properly made, sit nice and tight. To make sure that this will not shift around ,you can take another piece of this metal and screw it in the inside of your transom towards the bottom.( so it is not in the way of your 25 horse when you use that) with an inside space of the thickness of your metal plate so the bottom end of your bracket can fit into it when you slide it over the transom. This bracket holder should be the same width as your bracket and ideally 7 or 8 inches high and secured well to the transom. This is easily removable and strong. There are no nuts or bolts to deal with when installing or removing.

Yes I sort of remember ,purple haze ,wicked good stuff!

Why don't you just raise the transom a few inches?

Forget about extra pulleys. What you need is a system that requires less energy per revolution. The way to achieve that is by making the circumference of your spool smaller,while retaining the same RPM on this spool,so that the amount of wire -wound up- per revolution is less. That is the way to use less energy per revolution which will translate in less work for the motor per revolution and extend the life of the motor. Maybe Tom (Longline) who is an engineer has a different solution.

Does all of this mean that from now on you will be fishing on Pike Hunter's rig? Or is Anthony without a ride as well?

Four years ago,while fishing 10 colors leadcore for steelies with a red coho Luhr-Jensen #0 dodger and a SS Dreamweaver orange crush I got a hit so hard,that it broke the line at the rod. It appeared that I had lost the fish,the hardware and 10 colors of leadcore,but while cursing for setting the drag too tight,I saw a huge fish jumping and slashing the surface behind the boat. We turned the boat around real quick , moved down on the fish and netted it.Next I took the line and followed it all the way to the break off spot. I retied and continued fishing with it. Later we weighed the fish in. The scales stopped at 16 pounds and 4 ounces. It was the biggest steelhead of the day in the summer derby,except that my fishing buddy did not sign in for the derby. Oh well that would have been too much luck in one day.

Attwood Trolling Motor Steering Kit Easily attaches to your main motor to steer your kicker motor with your steering wheel Quick disconnect assemblies make attachment & removal convenient 24 in. zinc plated steering rod is durable & can be modified to required size Allows for tilting of either motor while attached Works with all dual or single cable steering systems & on hydraulic systems For fresh or saltwater use Kit is designed for steering at trolling speeds Disconnect steering rod while under power from the main engine Must be removed to transport