rolmops
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Everything posted by rolmops
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I would just go with one big oversized plate,leaving plenty of room around the bolt holes. On the stainless you should use big washers because stainless is quite soft as far as metal goes. When you tighten the bolts coming from the bracket you will probably see the stainless bending inward a bit .That will increase the contact surface so you really do not have to worry about uneven surfaces. As far as force is concerned,90% is downward so the only real problem that you have is that the weight of the outboard will enlarge the boltholes in the transom in a vertical way. Because of this,a big single plate with lots of surface contact (even it is uneven) will serve you the best.
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Forget about extra pulleys. What you need is a system that requires less energy per revolution. The way to achieve that is by making the circumference of your spool smaller,while retaining the same RPM on this spool,so that the amount of wire -wound up- per revolution is less. That is the way to use less energy per revolution which will translate in less work for the motor per revolution and extend the life of the motor. Maybe Tom (Longline) who is an engineer has a different solution. -
Sold / Closed Special mate boxes, brand new flies, Spinnys, twilly tips, terminators, wire rods
rolmops replied to momay4000's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
Does all of this mean that from now on you will be fishing on Pike Hunter's rig? Or is Anthony without a ride as well? -
I agree,that is why I have 6 of those
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Four years ago,while fishing 10 colors leadcore for steelies with a red coho Luhr-Jensen #0 dodger and a SS Dreamweaver orange crush I got a hit so hard,that it broke the line at the rod. It appeared that I had lost the fish,the hardware and 10 colors of leadcore,but while cursing for setting the drag too tight,I saw a huge fish jumping and slashing the surface behind the boat. We turned the boat around real quick , moved down on the fish and netted it.Next I took the line and followed it all the way to the break off spot. I retied and continued fishing with it. Later we weighed the fish in. The scales stopped at 16 pounds and 4 ounces. It was the biggest steelhead of the day in the summer derby,except that my fishing buddy did not sign in for the derby. Oh well that would have been too much luck in one day. -
Attwood Trolling Motor Steering Kit Easily attaches to your main motor to steer your kicker motor with your steering wheel Quick disconnect assemblies make attachment & removal convenient 24 in. zinc plated steering rod is durable & can be modified to required size Allows for tilting of either motor while attached Works with all dual or single cable steering systems & on hydraulic systems For fresh or saltwater use Kit is designed for steering at trolling speeds Disconnect steering rod while under power from the main engine Must be removed to transport -
If kicker is mounted on transom next to main outboard, you might be able to put a link across the front between the two motors. There is a very good and cheap bar that goes between the outboard fronts on the insIde of your boat. Both Panther and Sterns make them. It is a simple bar with quick connectors.
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try this: http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/55405-merry-christmas/ That will enable you to send him a pm
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The blocks are the same size. Just make sure that the outdrive has the proper gear ratio for the engine that you plan on getting. There probably is a difference in the way the manifold connection to the exhaust looks. Yours is sort of rectangular and (upside down) U-shaped,while the newer 3 liter blocks have a round exhaust connection that does not go straight back but is offset at about 45 degrees. You will have to use the old engine u-shaped connection. It will either fit on as is or you will need an adapter. But before you buy,you may want to get in touch with L&M (Hank). He does magical things with cracked blocks. When you remove the block you have a very good opportunity to check the transom.
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Your outboard should charge those batteries if they are hooked up the right way. Although,if you are running 24 volts on your trolling motor, it does get a bit complicated As for the Minnkota battery charger,it works like any other battery charger. It needs to be plugged in to a 110 volt outlet
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Does your current engine charge batteries? Or do you have a pre 1972 magneto engine? I'm asking this because I'm trying to find out whether you want to keep your batteries charged over the winter,or whether you are looking to add an alternator/generator to your engine?.
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Those pictures really show how to do it and what not to do. Please do not let the drawstring of your hoody get anywhere close to a sawsall. It might get you killed -
I think your lead stayed in front of the geese. The slower the target moves the more you have to fire straight at your target. The speed of your lead makes the wind effect negligable,unless it takes more that 3 seconds to reach your target, or so they taught me in the army. LOL they also taught me to shoot 7 lengths ahead of an incoming jet fighter, but I never hit one.
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In Brighton,NY there are a few suburban deer that are hand tame ,hand fed and wear tick collars -
They are hunting alien invasive species. It is the highest time to put aluminum foil covers on our canvas. -
I wish you the best weather and success. Please show us some pictures.
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That one was made to catch the magical mystery fish. -
Can you produce a picture showing how much room you have at the bottom of the transom? There are some tricks that involve PUSHING the transom up from the bottom instead of pulling it up from the top.
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Unless it is impossible to salvage at least some of it you may want to try and get it out as complete as possible and piece it back together while laying on a piece of cardboard. It will help you get the proper measurements for the new transom
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Another more elegant solution is a different propeller. I would presume that a 19 footer with a 4.3 I/O has a prop with 19 or 21 pitch. For every point you go down in pitch you need an extra 200 rpm to come to the same speed. So If you go down to a 14 or 15 pitch you should be able to troll at 800rpm. Just be very careful opening her up because you will find that she may rev up to 6000+ rpm and that may blow the engine. This propeller /rpm thing is a bit more involved ( I ignored weight,hull type,draft ) than I just described so there is really no exact number but it will work. So if you just want to troll and are not interested in racing you should be good.
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That is very true,I got carried away,my apologies. -
If I would use solid wood,I would go this way ,while if I would use plywood I would glue it into one solid bar. both ways are strong
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Dependent on the quality of the plywood, yes. Of course solid oak or locust is nothing to joke about,but the strength in plywood is in the grain of the different plies going in different directions,where solid wood grain is in only one direction leaving it open to lengthwise cracks that may eventually split the stringer length wise.
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Solid wood seems great,but it is not as good 2 six ply 3/4 inch glued together and properly epoxied. The same goes for the transom. Those 12 plies provide great flexibility and even greater strength. Just make sure to use dense plywood such as marine,although nowadays there are other very dense plywoods which are just as good when properly epoxied and less than half the price. You may be tempted to use pressure treated,but for what you need it is no good. The best tool for checking out boats is a sharp pointy knife. just stick it in the floor ,the stringers and the transom. If it goes in deep ,you know that there is a lot of work .
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Not sure with your rig,but very often a small strip is left open so water can drain down, but then just as often, if the floor has been redone,you will see what you are afraid of.