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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. This post sure makes a good case for catch and release
  2. Thanks Sean. I ordered it through Amazon. I notice it has a silicon coating and 80 % breaking strength so I hope it holds up over time but sure worth a try to have a little "peace" while fishing....the weed situation is bad enough to deal with out there. Les
  3. Sweet! They are truly exquisite trout and my memory still tells me they are the best eating as well as beautiful looking. Very nice video. Thanks.
  4. 30 lb 7 strand or 19 strand stainless steel (usually in the brownish/grey finish depending on manufacturer.
  5. Way to go Andy! Have to start taking a camera with ya bud (while you're getting into them anyway)
  6. I tried to order some of the line from Blood Run and their website isn't great....I went through the process and and it wasn't able to complete the order - kept sending me in a circle without completing....just a " heads up" for those interested.
  7. He serves PA Here is his website: http://www.tristatetaxidermy.com/
  8. Adk1 - What you can take from what John and I and others have said is this: If you are using your daughter's Zebco Barbie fishing outfit on Lake O for kings you might have a drag and rod problem
  9. Ditto on Paul Czarnecki....his mounts look like fine artwork.
  10. You shouldn't have many problems then as there is some stretch even in the 30 lb mono (little to none in the fluoro so take that into account). It is also personal preference to some degree so experiment to see what works for you I'd say just stay away from the extreme settings until you get your "feel" for it.
  11. Many of the standard fresh water reel drags have a max setting of 12-20 pounds so some of it depends also on the pound test of the line you are using and knowing your reel. I leave the drag set so that there is a little tension on it so that the hook usually sets itself when I pull the rod upward out of the holder from the weight of the fish. Fish like rainbows have a delicate mouth structure (soft tissue) so yanking hard on the rod to "set" the hook will often lose a fish for you. The critical thing is to always maintain contact between the fish and your hook so I gradually tighten the drag as I'm fighting the fish making him work harder as he goes (assessing the "feel" of it as I go) and then loosening slightly as needed as you feel him "running" then tightening up gradually again. The boat is just as important as the drag and they should work together to wear the fish out. Many fish are lost because of "angler impatience". As long as you maintain contact with the line the fish will be pulling against the boat/drag combination...and no matter how big he is he will tire out from the pulling some take longer than others... so you make adjustments accordingly. If your drag is smooth and in good condition, your hooks are sharp and your line is uncompromised you'll be in good shape. Again though if you are using 8 lb test line you aren't going to be able to crank the drag down anywhere near the max of 15 pounds....
  12. Just about ADK....that is what happens when you are retired and the fleas and weeds are bad....you wimp out and do all your fishing on the board
  13. It depends somewhat on the brand you buy as there is some standardization but not totally. I used to buy the Spro black ball bearing swivels but no longer do as I had some give way and the rings are soft and bent...their inline swivels are good. I've used the Premium quality solid ring black ball bearing swivels from Cabela's for a long time without problems. The split ring ones suck. With that said I use the numbers 2 and 3 for the most part. Size 2's for browns and Finger Lakes fishing and 3's on Lake O for salmon and trout for downriggers, leadcore, and thermocline rigs (Finger Lakes) and sometimes 4 or 5's for heavier stuff (dipseys, copper). Sometimes manufacturers include the physical size information as well, but often just the numbers are used and they may not always be of equal size for different manufacturers. Here is an example size chart for general reference though. I forgot to mention I use small duo locks on them ....sorry about that. Thanks Don
  14. Yes Tom is right it can scratch especially thin actual silver finish but it cna also get some stubborn stuff off thicker finish lures that the WD 40 and other things won't do....different process scrubbing vs. chemical removal but as mentioned have to be careful and not be too aggressive with it.
  15. Yeah that's the needlefish/sand eel imitation used in salt water for stripers and blues> They use them on Cape Cod too.
  16. Nice going Andy. I'm hoping to give it a try this weekend on Seneca. You've got them figured out... Les
  17. That is awful...sorry for their loss and sure hope they at least get some closure by finding her soon.
  18. Sounds like a good "fishing fix" needs to be coming up soon Mark....but don't put away the bug spray just yet either....
  19. Sorry about that I neglected to mention the problem of bright light...it is true that in direct sunlight the display is hard to see. I fashioned a visor out of plastic and velcroed it on and it helps. Iused some of the thin plastic edging material used in gardening (approx the same color as the unit)...probably not the most elegant solution but workable and cheap.
  20. Baking powder can be added to regular toothpaste for additional abrasiveness too
  21. Mark makes good points. I forgot to mention that I occasionally run my braid off it too but normally I run the braid off a TX44 board
  22. Yes I have one and they are versatile . You can hook them up to your wire lines/dipseys, downriggers etc. to see the actual depth they run at as well as the temps along the way at 5ft. intervals Here is what it looks like: Suggestion - Use another fastener in addition to the one on it for security of it...because it is rather flimsy. You'll notice my home made one attached to this one
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