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Need some help here, almost crunch time


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So I leave for Ontario in a little over a week. I added new 300' coated cable to my probe rigger last weekend and tried it out today to make sure it is functioning OK. I have the previous version Cannon speed and temp (not intelli troll). The only time I use it is when I got to Lake O twice a yr so it doesn't have much time on it. Last yr when on Lake O the depth would sometimes read double what the actual depth was and I forgot what we did but it did straighten out. Maybe we just kept turning it on and off until it read right? Like I say forgot how we got it to work ok.

Well today I tested it on local waters and same deal, double depth reading, with a little bit off from the exact double from time to time. Speed works fine and temp works fine.

Should I be panicking and looking to get either another unit or get this fixed before my trip? Like I say we go twice a yr so I do not want to be "blind" so to speak. Then reading about some of the other units I notice not all give depth at the ball so I'm thinking maybe I can get by with just the speed and temp???

Help and advice appreciated.

Spike

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Last yr I was letting out 140 to get down 125 on the rigger so I know about that. I usually fish the marks if there are any. From the responses I'm getting I guess I should be OK without knowing the actual depth of the rigger and just use the counter applying the difference for blow back. It's kind of what I thought but it's always good to get confirmation.

Spike

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if you dont trust your counter on your rigger and your not marking your balls on FF try slowing up a bit til ya mark them... that will get ya close

think the best thing i did this year was lose my probe for my fish hawk

fish the marks and set speed by the dipsy rods and blow back on rigger cables

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Never go by rigger counters if the cable is not the same cable that came on the rigger. Counters can be off a lot. Diameter of the cable, amount of cable on the rigger all play big parts in the rigger reading right. The rigger counter is set up to work correctly from the factory with the diameter and length of cable they come with. Tip your transducer back so you can see your rigger weights. Use the counter as a reference point. Take the depth it is showing for temp and set your wires/coppers to that depth.

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Mark:

Most of us fish without the Cannon depth sensor. We fish with rigger counters. You have a good idea of blow back after running the cannon for several seasons. I would just use it with the line counter and add the amount you recall from previous seasons for the blow back. I used a cannon for a season and learned that blowback resulted in my balls being about 10-15 feet higher than the counter showed at 90 feet as a result of blow back. At rest, the counter and depth readings were fairly close. I've learned to add about 10 to 15% to my counter readout when below 70 feet to calculate my actual depth. This would vary depending on the accuracy of your counters, the weight and shape of your balls and your trolling speed. I have checked this by bottom bouncing both intentionally and accidentaly.

I know you have accidentally hit the bottom before ;) Are you still using the cable I fronted you?

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New cable this yr, longer to get down to the bigun's. I chew up the coated cable stacking locally but trimming back the 10-15 feet usually fixes it for the next yr.

I know how the cable relates to a spool diameter vs revolutions (like line on a reel) but the counter supplied doesn't vary in the 200' of cable so I figure adding another 100' isn't going to throw it off significantly. It really is just a gage considering all other variables. Worst case with extra line I'm a little deeper than the counter. I ended up buying a new S&T, because I was worried if one part had failed the others may as well and ruin my trip. I went with Cannon again because it is nice knowing the depth and since the water I typically target when using this device is deeper I went this route. that and Billy V's reports of no issues in two seasons.

I have new tools that will eliminate me from hitting bottom with the DR's again. They are called copper lines. When I want to scratch I will scratch with them. If I mess up a line I can always sell it on shore to a crack head for a few bucks (joke).

Spike

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