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tj13825

New to Wire Dipsy Rigs need do's and don't 101 stuff

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Hi guys I performed a search and found a few helpful tips but was hoping to get some "101" schooling on the in's and out's of wire dipsy diver fishing. I already have a pair of 10 1/2' DD braid rods that I fished last year with some success and have fished DD in the past. I just purchased a pair of 9' wire set ups to add to the spread. I regularly fish with a buddy and his 10 yr old son which are both excellent fisherman but don't really know their way around a boat yet so I am looking for some tips.

 

I am not asking the how deep does this run, or should I run 7 or 19 strand. What I am looking for help with is the small things that you probably do without even thinking about it.

 

My set up will be a down and out DR with 4' boom either at 45 or 90 off each gunnel in the furthest back position of a 36" traxstech track, then a Berts ratcheting rod holder for each of the DD rods. I have an additional 18" of track mounted mid ship if I need to increase the spread. The rods are 9' Taloras w/wire and 10 1/2' Daiwa Great Lakes System rods with braid. All four reels are 47lc.

 

Safety, obviously wire is going to cut through things especially fingers if they are put in the wrong place. What are some of the Never do this! Always do this! types of things to know?

 

Other considerations/topics:

drag settings

knots

tips while fitting the fish

storage/transport of rod/reel combo

wire line life expectancy

maintenance

how to identify a problem with the line before failure

turning radius

 

I know there is some time before the rods will even be put to use but I really like to study and know the basics beofre getting out there to help work the kinks out.

 

Thanks again

 

Terry

 

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I assume you're not putting the wire on the down rigger, you're just clarifying that you'll have 2 downrigger rods out at the same time, with mono line on them, right?

 

After you've deployed the dipsey to the desired depth, the drag should be set that it creeps out a little, like a click every 30 seconds or so. There's many reasons for that, but mostly for the initial hit (no stretch in wire) to provide some shock absorption, so the hook doesn't rip through the fishes mouth.

 

Wire goes to quick snap ball bearing swivel (I use spro).  Here is a good knot that I use.

 

http://www.lotsa1.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm

 

Only thing extra is run a trout bead through the wire before you tie that knot. When you reel up to the swivel, it will protect your swivel end from being damaged.

 

Generally, I let the fish run and tire itself out. You may have to tighten the drag a little, but not much.  Then you pump up and reel on the down. Be careful on the downswing to reel before you drop the rod, otherwise that creates slack in the line and the fish could come off.

 

For storage, you need to keep the line tight to avoid pig tail kinks.  You will get them though, no matter how good you are, and need to trim a foot here and there to keep the line clean.  I just break my rod in two and put the tip on the butt end of the second piece, and keep the wire semi-tight.

 

I've had wire for 5 years, you don't need to replace until it gets too short. Generally when I see my reel capacity has dropped below around 70% (1000 ft should fill a size 30 reel to the brim), then I replace it completely.  In fact I have to do that now with probably 2 of my rods.

 

Maintanence - see above, keep line tight and cut off curly ends when they appear.

 

Check for kinks especially in the first say 6 to 10 ft (full rod length), they're easy to spot, just slide your pinched fingers up and down. Don't be afraid to cut wire off if you find a kink.

 

I generally don't like to turn more than what gets my wires to around the center of my stern on the outside lines.

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the most important thing about wire is to always keep it tight on the spool.always let it out slow so it planes out as it's going back.when it's out keep the drag just tight enough to not let the line creep out if you are not planning on using snubbers. it's not hard to fish with and it out fishes braid in my experience 

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Never let a wire reel free spool, not even a little bit. It will start uncoiling and create a nightmare. It's best to always leave the clicker on. Always keep at least a little tension on the line. If you get a kink, cut it out immediately. Don't even try to straighten it. Kinks will break like a piece of thread. Curly Qs in the line are ok, just not kinks.

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Tyee,

 

Yes I am runnning Mono rods on the DR's and then the wire DD rod and then the braid DD rod separately. While my 101 question may have suggested very basic level I have trolled for over 30 years with Dr's and planer boards just new to the DD set up other than throughing one on a mono rod with a spinning rod having no clue where the hell it was in the water. Last year I picked up the braid set ups with 47 LC reels and read a lot about depth charts etc. Just trying to pick up any difference between braid and wire I should be aware of. Thanks for the link, I have actually used that on braid before. I also float fish so I have lots of beads that is a great tip!!

 

 

Shawn/Big Water,

 

Thanks for the keep it tight direction, last year fishing the braid I always made sure I let the diver out with the clicker on and slow never "free spooling" so this i will be the same process for me. I will keep an eye on kinks.

You mentioned snubbers, I have always run snubbers on my DD even when I have run them on Mono rigs. Do most run them or is this a Ford vs Chevy 50/50 thing?

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i guess the use of snubbers is just personal preference. in my experience the hookup rate is higher without them.

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The guys have given you a good "wire 101" start.  I would emphasize that you don't let out the wire using the free spool and thumbing it. What you do is set your drag so that it just creeps out evenly and slowly while you do other stuff and intermittently monitoring it. If you try the thumbing approach it can get away from you as well as go down too fast tangling everything up on the way. Frequently check the terminal end of the wire each time (trip) before using it for any broken strands and re-do the connection if you spot any break in it. Set your drag so that wave action won't trigger it  but a fish will and watch your rod tips constantly as it can tell you when you are too fast speed wise as well as when a small fish may be on because especially with lakers sometimes they feel the lack of "give" of the wire and just come right along without fighting until they feel you pulling on the rod. Don't "horse" the fish  because the wire is unforgiving as may be the fluoro leader (little to no stretch) reel the wire in smoothly and observe the wire coming on the reel to make sure it doesn't cross thread on you. When you are transporting it is critical to maintain tension on the wire at all times whether using a two piece rod or single. Some folks use a bungee setup to maintain tension. others fasten the swivel to a rod eye, while others keep their dipseys right on the rig strapped to the rod in various ways....whichever way you choose it must keep the tension. The 30 lb wire needs more attention than say 60 lb (on my Seth Green rigs for example which have lasted over thirty years and are still like new) The thinner the wire the more likely the wire will develop curly Q's in it and retain "spool memory" so as already mentioned periodic monitoring is important and just cut out small section where it occurs as necessary. You won't ever totally get rid of the problem but it can be controlled this way. As far as maintenance of the wire itself as long as the tension is kept and any kinks deleted from it the only thing to remember is during long periods of storage back off the drag on the reel so that it will hold the wire but not be under full spool tension. The turning radius of the boat with your particular setups will depend on many things (rod spacing, angles, rod length, trolling speed, and overall configuration of your setups. Suffice it to say you want to minimize tangles as they are particularly problematic with wire (and combined with stuff like leadcore or braid etc.). I know I'm sounding pessamistic but keep a pair of wire cutters handy for these potential situations...like it or not....s..t happens :lol: . Make any turns gradual and observe the angle and position of your lines and adjust accordingly if necessary.

Edited by Sk8man

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1). When putting on wire on the reel.....have a helper with oven mits and the spool on a pen or other spindle.  Have your partner apply tension to the sides of the spool with the oven mits so wire goes on tight.

2).  Using a wire line knot tie on a quality swivel (like the size on your flashers).

3).  Take your rig down to the local school, hook the swivel on a chain fence and under tension walk as much wire off the reel you can and then reel it back on tight.  You are ready to go fishing.

4).  As others have stated, let the dipsy out slowly either on a light trickle drag or thumbed out with clicker on.

5).  When a fish hits.....DO NOT SET THE HOOK.  The fish will hook itself if the hook is deep enough as there is no stretch in the line.

6).  Lighten the drag (should be fairly loose already) and let the fish burn off the wire to tire itself out and center itself in the middle of the spread.

7).  After the fish has tired a little you can start to make gains and tighten the drag a little if warranted.  Don't make jerky up-down movements of pumping the fish in.  Everything is done smoothly not to tear the hooks out of the fish (no stretch).

8).  Wire will cut mono downrigger lines

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I didn't see it mentioned and I'm assuming you know you need Twilli Tips as the wire will cut the metal tip. I don't run snubbers either, I leave a loose drag and use a rubber band to keep it from moving due to waves. The band will break on the hit and the fish can take line no problem

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  1. Sk8man great advice on letting the diver out, fighting the fish and the rod storage/transport ideas. I always have a pair of wire cutters on the boat kind of a better be prepared for the worse kind of guy.

Chief yes the wire set ups do have the twilli tips installed. I can't really picture using the rubber band, are you just half hitching the bubber band around the wire and rod between the reel and the first eye?

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Yes half hitch around wire close to reel and hook over handle. Doesn't take much to break but keeps from creeping.

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Yes half hitch around wire close to reel and hook over handle. Doesn't take much to break but keeps from creeping.

 

Interesting topic because I always have the drags on the wire diver set loose.  Just enough drag that it didn't creep out.  At the Salmon School this past January, both captains said snug down those drags on your wire divers so you don't get those small rips and then they're gone. You know what I'm talking about.

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Yep... what i was referring to when I said enough to prevent the wave action etc. from taking it out as it is enough to provide the necessary tension to keep them hooked up because they have to pull it pretty good at the start and the weight of the dipsey, flasher and wire  combined with very sharp hooks (which also should be checked routinely and sharpened as necessary) are enough to accomplish it without problems. As important is reeling steadily without letting slack in the wire (or any line for that matter) and never "set the hook" as I've seen some folks do :) If the dipsey release tension is set right everyhting should function fine.

Edited by Sk8man

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I would also use the wire rods as your inside diver rods, if you are planning on running all 4 diver rods at the same time.  Set your divers on the wire rods to a 1 setting, and run them deep.  Set your outside diver rods, with the braid to a 2.5 or 3 setting, and run them higher than the wire rods.  I don't know if anyone else has mentioned this, because it does become like second nature after you get your first nasty tangle, but make absolutely certain that you have the port side divers set to the port side of the boat and the starboard divers set to the starboard side of the boat, or you will tangle everything in your spread!!  Oh yeah, and make sure your release tension is tight enough on the diver trip arm to hold the lures you are pulling, without the drag from the lure tripping the diver.  Spoons do not need nearly as tight of tension as flasher/fly combos.  Keep a screw driver handy for this.  :yes:  :yes:

Edited by John Kelley

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I have a Scottie pinch pad fastened to my rod holders , I run my drags loose, so it's a constant ( but slow ) creep out, then attach my pinch pad to stop the creep when a king rails it the drag is free enough that he can't break off. As mentioned before run them out to desired depth by loosing drags so it's a constant speed, but slower than boat speed . I also have 20 of 65 lb. braid on the end of my wire, this helps to manage bird nests while rods are being broke down for storage .

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I have a Scottie pinch pad fastened to my rod holders , I run my drags loose, so it's a constant ( but slow ) creep out, then attach my pinch pad to stop the creep when a king rails it the drag is free enough that he can't break off. As mentioned before run them out to desired depth by loosing drags so it's a constant speed, but slower than boat speed . I also have 20 of 65 lb. braid on the end of my wire, this helps to manage bird nests while rods are being broke down for storage .

What knot are you using for braid to wire?

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One thing I don't see is, always make sure your dipsey' are on the right side of the boat or you will have a big mess....all this good stuff above doesn't mean anything if ur dipsey's aren't on the right side to plane out. And they are up in ur riggers or worse 300 ft behind the boat tangled together.

Just from someone that has experienced that...lol.

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Sorry for hijacking, but I wrapped a few wraps of 30lb mono onto the spool and then put 1000ft of 30lb afw stainless on an Okuma Convector CV 30 D reel. I've heard that 1000ft is supposed to fill the spool of an Okuma 30, but it did not. There is still about 1/4" of space on the spool. Will the line counter still be accurate? post-156105-14601466254252_thumb.jpg

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The counter will be off, probably by around 10%.  When you start putting line on, I think each 1 ft on the counter is actually only 0.3 ft of line (basically it is over-estimating by 3x).  Closer to the top, it's less of an issue, but I'd probably add 10% just in case.

 

To be honest nowadays I don't really worry about where exactly my wire divers are. I put 4 wirelines out at different depths (depending on where fish are - high, middle, deep).  So say they're deep in 80 ft of water, I'll go 160, 180, 220, 250 of line out. I'll start getting hits on one of them and then adjust my other lines accordingly.

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Get a 300' tape and walk out with your wire and see what your counter says

 

LOL, that would be a long walk!  You can simply let out 10' according to the reel counter, and then measure it. I'm willing to bet it's off by around 10%.

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