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Gill-T

Torpedo Weighted Steel connections

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My first run with this stuff ended unsuccessfully as I had a fish pull the modified albright knot connection I had installed taking my dodger/fly and 200' of wire (sorry fish, I feel bad). I love the handling of the new product.  No kinking, no tangling as advertised.  I don't like any of the options the owner of Torpedo products shows on his website or Youtube for connecting braid backing to wire so this morning I got out the needle and thread and I think I have come up with a smooth-strong connection knot to use with this stuff.  You will need a push-pin and a sewing needle from your wife's tackle supply.  Place the torpedo weighted steel on a board and push a push-pin thru the middle of the wire.  Rig up the end of your braid thru a sewing needle and thread the needle into the opening of the wire created by the push-pin.  Once you get the sewing needle part way thru, remove the push-pin to make it easier to push the sewing needle all the way thru and lessen the opening of the weave in the wire.  Once thru, I tie a nail knot.  Cinch it down real good.  Makes a super clean knot that will chute thru the guides. Having the braid starting connection buried inside the wire weave should minimize the knot slipping.  I will post my results this knot after test driving.  

 

http://www.101knots.com/nail-knot.html

Edited by Gill-T

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Thanks. I'll try it and see if it works with my stubby fingers.

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I emailed Mathew Saurie from Torpedo Divers and he will test the knot strength when he gets back from out-of-town first week in May. 

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I can’t sign off on this knot yet. Still testing 

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First dance with a scrappy 14 lb king proved successful. Then we hooked a large willow branch which was putting tremendous pressure on the knots ......and the knots held. So far so good. 

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Another large tree reeled in and multiple three year old kings taken on rig. The knots really got tested on a tail-hooked 14 lber that took 20 minutes to reel in and a rampaging 20 lber. Confidence in the knot is growing. 

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Another large tree reeled in and multiple three year old kings taken on rig. The knots really got tested on a tail-hooked 14 lber that took 20 minutes to reel in and a rampaging 20 lber. Confidence in the knot is growing. 
What are you using for your connection to mono?

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A small section of braid tied into the wire then braid to mono. 

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Right, now try to have that loop pass in and out of your guides smoothly. 

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No issues on a convector 55 granted I have it on the okuma copper rod too..

Before I found this knot I used Albrights with no issue, but I do like the knot you posted and gonna give it a try too. Thanks

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It’s tricky and will take multiple tries until it lays right. The modified Albright works great on my wire slide divers but the weighted steel line is stiff causing the folded end to have too much memory to hold the connection long term IMO. 

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I started using hollow core braid for all my copper and steel connections. Same concept as the Chinese Finger Trap. ....used by tuna fisherman and others for big fish in the ocean.

Smallest transition profile and nearly 100% knot strength. I also use it for backing in all applications....a little more expensive, but worth it in the long run for reasons mentioned above.

Downside is it is not a "in the field" implementation for repairs. You need long needles and a few accessories make it much easier if doing a lot. Many videos and instructions online.

I even use the technique on my lead core as that is nothing more than hollow core with lead in it. Nothing easier than a Willis knot, but it is nice not worrying about it hanging up in rod an reel.


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I looked into that technique also but didn’t know hollow core size to use, more expense etc. I am sure the knots for this line will be evolving. 

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More three year old kings tested the knot this weekend. This time with the additional weight of inline planer boards attached. 

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The knot shown on the video does have a size problem, but that can be solved. The loop opens up because the shrink tubing expands under the pressure of the loop trying to open up. If you use a sleeve connector in addition to the shrink tubing and slide the connector all the way forward, you can make the loop very small. You will need to give the sleeve just enough of a pinch so it does not slide. move the shrink tubing over it or up to it and you are in business. Another solution is wrapping the loop with very thin wire as far as you need in order to make the loop as small as you want it. But that would be hard to do on the boat.

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Edited by rolmops

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Still using same set up with the same knots tied this spring. Yesterday someone in our group fought a 20 lb king that was hooked in a lateral fin. The battle lasted 25 minutes. Still going strong. 

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So after a full season with the nail knot on the weighted steel connection, I wanted to check the connection to see how it held up. One knot looks pristine and one looks like crap. Back to the drawing board. Here is how I tied this knot and what they looked like after season. 

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91B5F551-2B0C-4797-8F32-E35D2AF5CB74.jpeg

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You can see from the second photo of the used knot, the braid was starting to fray and was poised to break. I am back  to an improved Albright with more wraps and a second piece of braid tied via Albright, cinched down behind the knot to keep the loop memory from working open the holding knot. 

Edited by Gill-T

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I have used two of the different connections shown on their website on both of my rods with great results. I used a small spro swivel on both connections and attach the braid backing or mono leader to the other side of the spro. Both have held up two years now.

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uni-uni knot your backer to a 2 foot section of 65 or 80lb braid - then albright knot the braid to weighted steel.  do the same for your leader - albright steel to 2 foot section of 65/80lb braid and then uni-uni that to your floro leader.   never had any issues yet with plenty of good kings taken.  the key was the 65 or 80lb braid - tried using 40lb braid and it didn't hold as well.

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uni-uni knot your backer to a 2 foot section of 65 or 80lb braid - then albright knot the braid to weighted steel.  do the same for your leader - albright steel to 2 foot section of 65/80lb braid and then uni-uni that to your floro leader.   never had any issues yet with plenty of good kings taken.  the key was the 65 or 80lb braid - tried using 40lb braid and it didn't hold as well.
The 40 pound braid didnt hold as well meaning it slipped or frayed ?

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12 hours ago, wishinfishin said:

The 40 pound braid didnt hold as well meaning it slipped or frayed ?

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it just started to fuzz up and fray.  Talking to a couple other people who had it set up the same they actually had it fray off attaching there 30/40lb backer to the steel.  No issues since switching to the heavier braid.

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On 1/20/2020 at 7:17 PM, Puck5760 said:

uni-uni knot your backer to a 2 foot section of 65 or 80lb braid - then albright knot the braid to weighted steel.  do the same for your leader - albright steel to 2 foot section of 65/80lb braid and then uni-uni that to your floro leader.   never had any issues yet with plenty of good kings taken.  the key was the 65 or 80lb braid - tried using 40lb braid and it didn't hold as well.


I think you are onto something. I retied my connections with 80 lb using a preferred improved Albright Knot and I found a much better result. The extra thickness has better binding properties. I did nine wraps instead of usual 7. I like it. The only tricky part is the cinch down, making sure the knot doesn’t slip off the end of the doubled up wire

Edited by Gill-T

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