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greenhornet73

Linking main fuel line to kicker motor

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I have been given an old but very clean Johnson 6hp kicker motor that I would like to run off of my main fuel line.  Both motors use a 50:1 fuel mix and wondering if I can use a “T” fitting to feed both with a primer bulb for each motor?

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You can , but it is tricky, because while using one engine you can cause back flow from the other engine which often ends up as sucking air from one engine to the other. One solution is putting check valves in both lines. The problem here is that often the negative pressure is not quite enough to activate the check valve and the problem may persist. Another solution is shut off valves in both lines after the T. In my experience, the most foolproof solution is using a multi directional valve instead of a T. It is a valve that has one intake (source) and 2 or 3 outlets . Whenever the shutoff inside opens one outlet, it will close the other and on top of that, it often has a complete shutoff as well. This is the fool proof one that I use. You will need only one primer bulb which is before the valve.

image.thumb.png.1aa79f6b5b585800327b23377fdcadf6.pngThis is a moeller  fuel valve They come in more shapes and forms.

Edited by rolmops
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Auhhh Primer bulbs have check valves in them already... Yes it will work fine the way you described.

 

Edited by Knotlost Charters

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I put a brass tee in the outlet of my fuel filter/separator and a valve in each leg, barbed fitting and oem fuel hose to each motor from there. That was 3 years ago.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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So the only primer bulb is ahead of the water separator and you close off the valve to the motor not being used at the brass T?

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So the only primer bulb is ahead of the water separator and you close off the valve to the motor not being used at the brass T?
No, each motor has its own primer bulb and hose from the tee, I only put the valves in for maintenance. There are check valves in the primer bulbs to stop the flow from one to the other.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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Ok, that sounds like my original plan plus a couple valves which seems pretty easy to do myself.  Thanks everyone for the suggestions.  Now I just have to figure out where to mount this thing on my transom, not a lot of room with my short boom downriggers.  May have to kick one out off the side 

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Posted (edited)

Adjustable kicker bracket and swivel mounts for the riggers. Run the riggers 90* to the side and you’re good. 

 

Most F/W separators are dual in dual out. Plug 1 in and run each out to each motor and you’re good there too. 

Edited by FishingFool34

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Awesome I didn’t realize the separator had two outputs.  Should be an easy hookup there.  The short rigger still has me nervous.  I have a winger I may put on the kicker side to run the cable far away from that prop

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On 10/1/2019 at 1:36 PM, greenhornet73 said:

this is the situation, any suggestions here?

29E5EBE1-F0C8-4654-A587-FD7540452522.jpeg

I would like to mount the kicker mount to the port side of the transom but have a problem.  I would have to through bolt it through 10” of fiberglass.  My 6hp kicker weighs only 35# but I am sure lag bolting it would not be sufficient, especially for trailering.  Anybody have any experience with a boat like this?

A2743ADD-FCEC-43E9-937C-ABE3DCDE2381.jpeg

02A08F1A-BCD4-465D-B2DF-E8481A2F580C.jpeg

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I was thinking about that but without knowing how thick the outside wall is I am hesitant of cutting even with using a backing plate.  I emailed and will try to call Sea Pro customer service to find out if that is an option.  If I can end up doing that I can finally mount my downrigger plate where I can wanted to.

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On 10/1/2019 at 1:16 PM, greenhornet73 said:

So the only primer bulb is ahead of the water separator and you close off the valve to the motor not being used at the brass T?

This setup would would have the primer bulb after the separator and the  T would shut off the engine not being used

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