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1982 Evinrude 70HP E70ELCNB


JZTIRF

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I am changing ignition coils in my 1982 Evinrude E70ELCNB and have a question; Does anyone know why the OEM replacement part has two posts ?  See Pic.  The larger post goes to Spark.  What is the little post for ? 
 

There are unknown make/model coils currently installed on my motor.  This 3 cylinder motor is sucking gas and won’t get up on plane.  I changed the spark and for a short period of time I have full throttle, and then the motor suddenly slows, bogs down, can’t get the boat back up on plane like it’s not running on all 3 cylinders.   
 

I changed the plugs twice now, and both times it’s the same story,...  I initially regain full throttle speed.  Then, while running, drops out.  So, I am trying to change coils.  Anyone familiar with this situation ?  If the motor is not running on all cyl, is sucking gas a symptom? 


Thanks,

Jason

2E637B77-2AC6-4CA9-97FA-CA9082E8EF7C.jpeg

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The OMC outboards of that era are  prone to those issues . I had a 55 Johnson that did the same thing . I would change the coil and it would last a,trip or 2 . 

 

I think what happens is it runs fine till it gets hot then it shuts down and runs on 1 cylinder . 

 

 

It wound up being the spark amplifier or power pack . 

 

This happened to 3 other motors of that era I know about . 

 

Question  .. 

 

Is it running on all cylinders ? 

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Posted (edited)

I seem to remember that the old ones had the ground off the bolts that held them in place. On the newer ones, one of the posts is the ground

I never ever had a problem with any of my early eighties engines. They were probably the best engines that Johnson/ Evinrude ever produced. (Except of course for the 1957 35 horse seahorses).

Edited by rolmops
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Yes, they are great motors when they are running . 

 

But everything breaks down eventually. 

 

And these are my experiences with them .

 

 

We went thru my friends 70s 60 hp and we would get it running good and it would do just as you described . He finally wound up selling it . 

 

After that I found out from someone who had the same problems what his fix was . 

 

The part was like 400$ . 

 

 

 

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Yup,...  if changing the Coils does not work, I will change the power pack next.  
 

The OEM Coils were less than $50 each, with parts and free shipping.  It just bothers me that the part does not look exactly the same.  
I think the little post must be for a smaller connection on a smaller model motor.  

 

I’m confident a little TLC will get this motor running again.  $300-400 is nothing compared to a new motor.  
 

I will update the post after the repair.  

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Posted (edited)
On 5/21/2021 at 9:43 PM, JZTIRF said:

Yup,...  if changing the Coils does not work, I will change the power pack next.  
 

The OEM Coils were less than $50 each, with parts and free shipping.  It just bothers me that the part does not look exactly the same.  
I think the little post must be for a smaller connection on a smaller model motor.  

 

I’m confident a little TLC will get this motor running again.  $300-400 is nothing compared to a new motor.  
 

I will update the post after the repair.  

Before you keep on throwing money at a problem that you have not exactly defined, you should take a tester and do the required tests to see exactly which is the failing part. A manual , even a Seloc , if nothing else is available will help you pinpoint the problem. Heck ,for all you know it may be a corroded connection or loose wire. Also, this problem has been written about a lot in the I-Boats forums and if you go through their files you will find exactly how and what to test. Or just find a youtube on how to test the individual parts. So far it cost you $100 to find out that the coils are fine. next in line is the power pack and then the stator. Fixing it that way becomes real expensive real fast. Anyway that's just my two cents.

Good luck with your engine. I hope it will run very soon because the season is upon us. Oh one thing I forgot to mention. Coils and/or power packs have this nasty habit of working fine when testing , but out on the water under a load, they heat up and then they malfunction. Back in the barn they have cooled off and when you test, they seem to be just fine again.

Edited by rolmops
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  • 5 weeks later...

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