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Church TX-44 Boards


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Hadn't run in-line boards since using Yellow Birds for browns in the late 70's.

 

Just tried a TX-44 and experience frequent problems with the board diving under. So much that after a couple dives, gave up for the day.

 

 

Any ideas on adjustments or positions of the rod?

 

Was using 5 color lead core with a short length of 30 lb fluorocarbon spliced in to connect to the board.

 

Thanks.

 

 

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I've only used them a few times so I don't have a ton of experience with them and I have only used them with mono and stickbaits so I have no experience using leadcore.  I have found that it helps a little to keep the rod tip down slightly and to not let the board hit the water again after pulling it out when reeling in a fish.  They work better when the water is calm, as the waves are usually what makes them dive for me.  If the board does dive, just let the line free spool and it will come back up.  I hope my small amount of experience helped you.

Edited by GeckoGuy
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I use specifically for copper and leadcore. If you have them set up for the right direction they work great. I attach mine to the backing and you attach to the tension clip on the face of board and then pull the pin which faces doe and put tag end going to lure behind the pin. Usually they will dive when a fish grabs it or if it gets hung up on bottom.

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Yes go to blood run, they have a lot of good advice on the TX44 board. One thing when you put the board in the water make sure you keep your rods high, and even when you have them in position, keep the rod tips up. When they dive it's normally when the tip is close to the water.

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Thank you all for all the insight. I was looking at the BloodRun info last night actually ( and good info there). We run our dipseys rods almost at 90 degrees to the boat. The rod holder I was using for the board was at approximately 45 degrees (should it be higher or lower?). We were running into the wind when the problem happened, but waves were less than 2 foot. Seemed like every time we made a slight turn or a larger wave appeared, the board would dive and I would have to put the reel in free spool and point the rod towards the board to get it to surface. Had to keep an eye on it every minute, which was a PIA. 

With the wide use of these boards, I have to think something I'm doing is wrong, maybe adjusting the ballast or positioning the rod?

Appreciate all of the comments. Thanks

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I believe In that Blood Run article there is a section dealing with modifications to the boards when running heavier stuff if I remember correctly. For the TX 44's it involved repositioning both the weights in a forward position and modifying the release arm (carefully bending it upward after heating it). If running braid they also mentioned buying metal pins to replace the plastic ones that come with the boards to avoid cutting into the plastic. Calumet Marine sells them and I've had them for awhile and they work fine..  Additionally you want the boards to run along parallel to the boat at the sides rather than well behind it. At least in my experience with inline boards there may always be occasional "skipping" and diving along with significant changes in boat speed and wave action especially if running "active" lures with heavier/longer lines and speed will be different for each side of the boat (outside faster and inside slower) I keep the rod tip up higher when letting the boards out and pointed downward toward the boards when bringing in fairly rapidly to avoid the board diving.

Edited by Sk8man
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Thank you all for all the insight. I was looking at the BloodRun info last night actually ( and good info there). We run our dipseys rods almost at 90 degrees to the boat. The rod holder I was using for the board was at approximately 45 degrees (should it be higher or lower?). We were running into the wind when the problem happened, but waves were less than 2 foot. Seemed like every time we made a slight turn or a larger wave appeared, the board would dive and I would have to put the reel in free spool and point the rod towards the board to get it to surface. Had to keep an eye on it every minute, which was a PIA. 

With the wide use of these boards, I have to think something I'm doing is wrong, maybe adjusting the ballast or positioning the rod?

Appreciate all of the comments. Thanks

Are the rods running like dipsys, flat to the surface of the water?  You want the rod tip as high as you can get it.

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I want to thank everyone again for the helpful info. 

 

I watched a Church Video last night on adjusting the TX-22 Board for the problem I am having.

 

They say it's common to have to adjust the weights back to prevent the diving problem (so they ride up) I looked at the TX-44 tonight and I don't see much room for adjustment. There are two lead weights, but little room to move either way. I suppose if I snipped off some of the forward weight it might have the same effect from the stand point of balance?

 

My problem hasn't been letting them out or reeling them, just how they dive after setting in the rod holder.

 

SK8man has a good point about the release arm (that makes sense).

 

I also ran across the advise on replacing the plastic pins.

 

I was thinking originally of using the boards for my copper but haven't reached that point early in the season.

 

I started running copper down the chute a few years back and it has been very effective, although it took me a awhile to get the knack of letting it out properly. Like the Wire Dipseys we use, kinks are a BAD thing.

 

I think my Lead Core Rods are 8 ft.

 

I have the rod holder options to position the angle any where I want (once I figure out what is best).

 

I'll keep everyone posted on my success (or lack thereof). This is a great site to share such info.

 

I am awaiting delivery of a new rod holder / mounting system for my dipseys from cisco fishing systems.

 

Last few years I have run Berts ratchets and they work great. Now I am looking to have the option of running 4 instead two dipseys. Went to cisco because I have a Lund Sport Angler and they a 42 degree track mounting system that allows placement without  drilling holes.

 

Quite sure this adventure may lead to more questions on the ins and outs of running four dipseys.

 

Hey, that's the fun of it to experiment with new stuff.

 

Thanks again everyone.

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bridget, do you have the TX 44 rigged properly? I don't have any problems with mine and have pulled 3 colors to 400 coppers with them. I have seen too many installed incorrectly. The clip should be backwards (facing the board), and the pin should be installed on the bottom slot (pin in the water).

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DON'T snip off the weights.  The modification calls for cutting a section out of the white foam in the shape of one weight (on top of it) and placing both weights stacked together together.The screw will retain both weights in the modified slot if carefully done. Note: I tried the modification but didn't like the way the boards rode so scrapped the it and returned to the standard setup and adjusted my rod placement upward and it helped

Edited by Sk8man
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I reviewed the board set up again, and is correct.

 

I have a roll of lead foil that I use to balance my ice fishing tip downs. Was thinking of cutting out some of the foam and adding a single layer of foil over the existing rear weight (not as drastic as doubling the rear weights). 

 

After all the good info though going to switch to one of my anglers pal tubular rod holders that have infinite rod angle adjustment (instead of the fixed 45 degrees) and experiment with rod positioning. That maybe the key?

 

Hope I can figure it out, because I would like to buy some additional boards, to use them as an option in the program.

 

Thanks again everyone, for all of the advice.

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I experienced the same thing with my church inline boards. Used them with het divers and when long lining deep reef runners for walleye. Kept the rods straight up on my rocket launchers. Had horrible time with them wanting to dive under the water. I gave up on them.

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If your inline were to catch a wave while trolling into them and dive or a big king buries your board simply free spool it while keeping light tension on it with your thumb. When the board pops up simply flatten your rod parallel to the water, or lower, and reel. No pumping!

When a board does submerge the LAST thing you do is try to pull on it!

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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  • 2 weeks later...

"Fished" if you call it that , the Seneca Derby.

 

I have half a dozen Anglers Pal Tubular Rod Holders that I mount on and off depending on the program (usually when fishing flat lines off the otter boards).  Decided to give them a try for the church boards after the the great in-put received earlier. Adjusted two of them at about 80 degrees and pointed in the direction of the boards. Ran 5 and 10 color lead color all weekend and had only one diving issue, because of picking up junk. Putting the reel on free spool (with thumb on the spool) and pointing the rod at the board, corrected that. Wasn't a lot of wave action, but still a very significant difference.

 

I should mention I did at one point put the rod in a 90 degree " rod holder" that is higher off the water that I use for my net, and the board almost immediately dived.

 

I am convinced that the key is getting the correct angle and orientation of the rod relative to the board.

 

The solution ended up to be as simple as proper positioning of the rod relative to the board and it made a tremendous difference.

 

Didn't catch a fish on the boards, but can't blame the boards for the that. Caught some fish on the down the chute copper and down riggers. Not a single hit on two dipsey divers in three days either.  Last fish on the the down rigger crossed the down the chute 300 foot copper and it wasn't pretty.

 

Again that for the input. I might have just gave up on the church boards, but the solution ended up to be simple.

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