AnglingAddict

Are you going to be there Greg?

I had a 2100 fishmaster with a Yamaha F200, mounted 3rd hole from top, with a 17 pitch stainless Mercury Tempest Plus prop - would do mid 40's loaded down with 4 guys. Top end in the upper 40's with slightly lighter load and flat seas. I screwed around with a bunch of props, the stock Yamaha prop in a 19 pitch was an absolute dog. Make sure that at wide open throttle and properly trimmed out that the anti-cavitation plate isn't sunk too deep - should just have a skimming of water flowing over top of it. That will give you the proper motor height, then from a prop standpoint, at wide open throttle you want to be right up against the rev limiter, but from my experience a 17 pitch prop seems just about right. Check out the Tempest Plus - it really performs well on multi-species boats, gets the boat up and out of the water and on plane quick. You will also need a hub kit for it, to adapt it for use with a Yamaha motor. I would try this before I went with trim tabs personally. That boat will perform with the right prop.

Surprised you need trim tabs. What are you running for a motor and prop?

For most that is pr

You could make a custom cable - problem is with a really long cable and then dividing into another long cable voltage drop could be an issue. My guess is the units run 12 volt 232 logic and that's certainly less susceptible to noise than a TTL level logic, but those long cables either way are going to cause drop and possibly pick up electrical noise. All of this might not make much sense unless you are an engineer, but it can be done but it's likely that it might not work very well.

While I agree fiberglass is somewhat permeable and will absorb moisture - to knock 8 MPH off the top end the hull would probably have to absorb several hundred pounds of water. I will stick by my thoughts that the crap on the bottom is the main reason you are losing top end speed. That being said you should paint or epoxy barrier coat the hull to keep moisture out and prevent osmotic blistering.

Paint bottom with interlux VC-17 - you won't have issues with growth and likely your fuel economy will improve. My guess is all the drag created by crap on the bottom of your hull was killing your top end.

Thanks Brian

Most of the CHIRP frequency packets probably contain harmonics that interfere with your FH - probably not much you can do. Could also directly interfere depending on the frequency range of the chirp pulse. Can seperate them from each other as much as possible - might help - but likely wouldn't eliminate.

If you are going to run copper - at some point you will get it tangled. Don't overthink it - you can run 300s on the smaller inlines - run your divers tighter on like a 1 1/2 setting and you will be fine. If you go with longer coppers then you can run one down the chute or go with the bigger TX-44s or the new offshore board meant for longer coppers.

I think you are off to a good start - get hooked up with someone who is willing to teach you the basics. Be prepared to spend a lot of time trying to figure things out, but that's all part of the fun. In all honesty - when it blows out of certain directions is doesn't matter how big your boat is - it's not worth being uncomfortable out there. The finger lakes are a short distance away and being trailer able - that would be a good option for days with big west winds. Much of the gear for lake O can be used on the fingers for trout trolling as well. Before you start randomly rigging your boat - get an understanding of how to optimize the rigging for your boat so that things flow when yo are working the gear at the back. Lots to learn, but welcome and feel free to ask away!

Interlux VC-17. It's probably around $50 per quart but worth every penny....good stuff.

I bought a set of Cisco electrics this year. I know a lot of people say the have more powerful motors - but I think honestly they are just geared lower which gives them more torque. Motors I think draw same current and voltage as the big Jon's. Regardless - they pull hard. Are a bit on the slow side but that's fine. They look great and if anything are overbuilt - so I have no worries with regard to longevity. Great reels.

I wouldn't worry too much about it...I move stuff all around and only use the counters to replicate what's going on. A dipsey set identical in one side of the boat with a spoon and the other on the other side of the boat with a flasher fly will be at different depths with the same wire out assuming both spools full anyways. Pull of the flasher changes the dive angle on a dipsey slightly....so I wouldn't worry too much if you only pulled off 50 feet of wire or something ....if you pull off half the spool then it's definitely going to have a bigger effect .

Group 4 sold pending payment. The only thing left is the group of attractors - new price on those.

Bump - still one lot of spoons and a few attractors up for grabs....