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Sk8man

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Everything posted by Sk8man

  1. Best of luck out there this season. Les
  2. I guess my take may be a bit different. When fishing live bait e.g. still fishing you do set the hook after you are confident that the fish has the bait. e.g. lake trout usually turn the bait around in their mouth after grabbing then swallowing so you wait for the fish to stop the initial run then set the hook when they begin the run again. Browns sometimes carry the bait around a bit before getting it down their throat (e.g. bobber fishing) and rainbows often hook themselves by viciously attacking the bait and sometimes even jumping out of the water in the process. When trolling I seldom if ever set the hook on trout or salmon and it applies to stripers and tuna as well in the salt water environment. One of the key aspects to this is to maintain very sharp hook points which I constantly monitor and sharpen as needed. Some require it right out of the package. As Fisherman 21 mentioned the initial drag setting is adjusted so that it maintains the line on the reel so that it doesn't play out with the clicker always on. I then increase the drag setting so that it requires a slight tug on the line to play out so there is some drag but not enough to impair the line if a hard hit. When the fish hits, the drag setting should be strong enough to exert some pressure on the fish so the hook penetrates; the rest is done by the rod tip when the rod is picked up and arched and the tip being maintained upward provides constant pressure on the fighting fish which in large part hooks itself. The constant pressure with no slack allowed is critical. A lot of folks don't further adjust the drag setting while fishing the fish but I carefully adjust it while fighting what I perceive larger fish according to to what is going on with the fight. I think a lot of folks that do an extreme hook set on fish lose a lot of them that way.
  3. It is also possible to carefully hammer the hook back to the "s"shape.
  4. The extreme south dock is loaded with silt and sand and pretty much impossible to get trailer out far enough so might want to use the northern most ones. Parking has been VERY full to so may want to consider Union Springs
  5. Are you sure they are both the same lure? The lips look different on each. The gold/black one looks like it might be a Renegade
  6. A long time ago they stocked some Seeforellen Brown Trout in Owasco (German lake dwelling browns) that were reputed to reach into the twenties....wonder if the genetics have transferred to some? Hope so they didn't fare well in Seneca. Nice fish. Maine fairly recently selected the Seeforellen strain for stocking there as a study of several strains found them to be the hardiest with high genetic integrity as well.
  7. Some of the best paint jobs I have seen on spoons
  8. The comment about both motors being 4 stroke or having the main one oil injected is important. You sure don't want to have that form of hookup if the kicker is a 2 stroke. Another option that folks usually resist but has a purpose is to run the kicker on its own fuel tank if you have room for one. The primary safety benefit is that you have two separate fuel systems in case of fuel contamination of the main tank (e.g. moisture or water on the main fuel which could affect both motors leaving you stranded).
  9. As suggested downriggers can be handy but they are not indispensable on Canandaigua Lake. You didn't mention when in the season you intend to fish or all season long as there can be different answers according to time of year. Smaller dipseys can be used in the upper level of the lake in the Spring and late Fall with small to medium spoons or small to medium stick baits. toplining from boards also works well during much of the season for rainbows and an occasional brown. The larger browns are often caught using live or dead bait (alewives) within the 100 ft or less water around the lake periphery near points and drop-offs, and often at night or early morning while a few are caught trolling. In the summer they tend to hug bottom in about 70 or 80 ft of water near drop-offs. There are no landlocks in the lake and only unstocked rainbows, stocked browns, and stocked Lake trout with a few naturally propagated fish of both the latter two species. Other than the early Spring and late Fall the Late trout are pretty deep so larger Deep Divers or Magnum sized are needed to get down deeper without riggers or Seth Green rigs. Flasher/ fly, Spin Doctor/ fly or both of these with spoons are pretty effective for lakers and the occasional rainbow or brown. It is important to keep the spoons and stickbaits within the small to medium range most of the time for most consistent results. Sutton spoons were were designed on and for Canandaigua Lake and they work very well as they are light weight and "flutter" a little differently than some other spoons and the silver plating on them is more visible for longer distances under water than say chrome or nickle. There is a large range of shapes and sizes of these spoons but they require a little trial and error experience to determine the best trolling speed for them and running several different ones of different shapes and sizes at the same time on a Seth Green rig usually means some may be running well and other maybe not so well. The larger ones seem to run best at slower speeds while the very small pones can be run at higher speeds usually for rainbows in the warmer weather and at some distance from the boat. If you don't get riggers or have leadcore lines you may wish to consider having a 5 color and 10 color to run from boards throughout the season. The smallest Suttons run very well for the bows from these. If I am found dead after posting this it was the other guys that troll Caanandaigua
  10. It isn't a Common Shiner as the body shape isn't right (shiner wider and almost hump shaped back and the fins are orangish. As far as the Spot Tail Shiner have a look at this pic and note the spot https://nas.er.usgs.gov/queries/factsheet.aspx?SpeciesID=596
  11. Be aware though that the designated sizes are not the same for all manufacturers.
  12. A few things come to mind: first of all fishing them in a pond can be quite different than in a Finger lake for example. They may or may not use the inlet or outlet. They are largely bottom feeders and prefer sandy or mud bottoms and usually are found scrounging things from those bottoms. They use their feelers around their mouths to feel for food rather than relying just on eyesight per se so they can be quite successful in muddy or murky water. I am mentioning this as it relates to the particular way you fish for them which can vary considerably. An important consideration is wind direction. Usually the most success is with the wind coming towards you because they follow the migration path from wind driven current underwater of whatever they can find and often near bottom, but they are attracted to movement detected by their feelers for moving worms, leeches or left over waxies or spikes from ice fishing dangling a foot or two off bottom can also be effective. They seem to be highly attracted to smelly/rotten things as well e.g. pieces of shrimp way past its prime, pieces of dead fathead minnows etc. Although they can be caught in the daytime most of their concentrated activity occurs at night as they are not as dependent as some species on vision for locating their food. As far as the pond situation you described I would position myself near the mouth of an inlet or outlet with the wind blowing toward you when the water is murky and at night just as dark approaches using a lantern or light with the side toward you blocked (we used to use aluminum foil on the half facing you to block the glare and enable you to see your lines clearly. Sometimes a small piece of broken styrofoam cup and pe placed on your line to help see the line go ou.t Find some shrubs a or bushes nearby and cut some forked sticks to use as rod holders to place your rods on. Cast out aways and put allow a "u shaped" loop in your line don't totally tighten it so that you can detect when they pick up the bait as they can be very light biters. The setups can be as you described, but I have always had success with a typical perch rig type setup with bell sinker at bottom and one or two hooks either tied directly to the line , or a two inch loop with hook suspended. In the daytime they may be caught with typical bobber setups with the line suspended just above the bottom in murky or muddy water. The version tied directly detects bites more quickly but they may also detect the tension while the loop version is not quite as quick to sense the bite. So there you have it....Bullhead 101 P.S. Small red (striped) manure worms in small gobs work great too.
  13. Congrats on a hell of a day!
  14. Just a point of information. The minimum size limit for Bass on Hemlock is 12 inches.
  15. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=splake&docid=608035350660929175&mid=2421A71098B5DC4EEC0F2421A71098B5DC4EEC0F&view=detail&FORM=VIRE
  16. Looks more like Splake - hybrid between male laker and female Brookie?
  17. The most effective setup for cowbells (if not using a downrigger) is the use of a weight (I use 32-40 oz.)which you can get from Troutman87 on here very reasonably and suspended about 18 inches from a three way swivel as a "dropper weight". You want this to make contact with the bottom as you troll slowly about 1.4 mph. The cowbells will be straight back from the other ring of the swivel (with a heavy duty Duolock snap on it) with the third hooked to a heavy duty swivel on the main line. You run the rig as close to the bottom as you can feeling it keep touching bottom as you go along. Generally you start in shallower than you end up letting out mainline as you go keeping the contact with the bottom. If using bead chains on your rig line an additional leader with a spoon can be used where the leader is long enough to follow behind the cowbells (e.g. 20 ft long) and located about 3-4 ft above the cowbells. This is where the term "cheater" line came from back in the old days.
  18. Rick has given you very good advice. The Airmar's are excellent transducers and hold up well. The better matched a transducer is to your unit and trolling the better the performance. Transducers can go bad over time and although usually they totally crap out when they do but I have had one over the years that acted just as you described it. Best solution get a transducer that is better adapted to your situation and Airmar has a whole range of them for that purpose. Make sure when installed it is free from any surface turbulence from chines or strakes on the hull and that it isn't too far toward the outside of the hull and many times they need to be angled forward or backward ever so slightly.
  19. Regardless of size get ball bearing AND solid ring NOT split ring swivels. If a knot slips on the split ring it can wedge in the depression of the split ring which is sharp and potentially cut the line (don't ask how I know this)
  20. In these days of litigation and ambulance chasing lawyers there is a substantial liability issue as well for the landowner and I would also wonder how the property insurers would be reacting too.
  21. One of the main reasons there is a paucity of access on many tribs is the problem of littering and it is a hell of a concern for property owners no matter what the one time money is and it is really too bad. A lot of the streams I used to fish in the 60's and 70's haven't been accessible for that reason for years.
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