Sk8man

Line diameter is one aspect and the slickness of the coating on the line is another component. I have used Sea Flee 30 lb test for years and it works pretty well but like everything else it is not foolproof. I noticed that one one rigger rod that I left the line on for about 5 years that the slipperiness of the outer coating of the line was reduced and the fleas starting adhering a little more on it. Another thing to consider is the type of water flea. The spiny fleas will usually come off the line fairly easily and sometimes just a vigorous flick of the tip of a wire rod or rigger rod. The fishhook type water flea adheres to just about anything and is much like cottonwood but smells a lot worse. Flea concentrations vary greatly throughout the water column which explains why some folks report they aren't bad in an area of the lake while others say they are terrible. The length of time they stay around varies too as it seems to relate to water temperature and perhaps even wind direction and velocity dispersing them throughout the column as well as the lake areas. I think line diameter may not be as important with the fishhooks type as they can totally clog up downrigger wire at 150-200 lb test when they are thick and I think it is the fact that the wire is stranded maybe not as tightly as some braid which can have a smoother surface and maybe at larger diameters won't allow them to cling as easily. Just my take on it.....

I think he is the one guy that everyone would be in agreement about on this website. Competence and the willingness to help others are a couple of things that seem in short supply these days and he displays both and in a very genuine way.

Dre: there is one carried by Walmart but it doesn't give the size of the openings but maybe could check it out further...they may have in the store even. https://www.walmart.com/ip/TOYMYTOY-Monofilament-Fishing-Gill-Network-Single-Layer-Net-Outdoor-Fish-Gillnet-Trap-1M-X-20M-Three-Round-Lead-Drop/523377487?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=18988&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=523377487_10000020145&wl14=gillnets'&veh=sem&msclkid=7914373f1fc41ef2d8ac55852ff560b8&gclid=7914373f1fc41ef2d8ac55852ff560b8&gclsrc=3p.ds

Seaflee isn't a total answer but I have had it on all my downrigger rods for about 8 years replacing the mono with 300 yards of it and leadering off it with lighter fluoro and it helps quite a bit. The spiny fleas come off pretty easily but the fishhook type adhere to anything and are tougher to get off much like cottonwood.

I know there are rod builders on here that might offer more expert information but I have used both epoxy and super glue on the roller tips successfully. By successfully I mean that they have lasted for 30 plus years without problem but having the correct diameter tip for the particular rod is important too. The tips don't require wrapping but the fit should be snug. The downside of superglue may be if you need to remove the tip for some reason (I have never had to on the 8 rods I have them on). With the rod epoxy or rod glue it is a matter of carefully heating the tip for removal.

Wow! VERY unusual; especially at this time of the year.

Mark sounds like a turn over but are you sure of the accuracy of the temp meter?

I've run both fixed and sliding cheaters since the late seventies and when I first started using them I tried them about 15 ft long as I was thinking about staying away from the back of the boat. After a couple times I realized that when you get a decent sized fish on them (e.g. kings :>) there is a big problem getting to the net once you reach the swivel of the main lure. If you keep them just slightly shorter than the length of your rod it eliminates that problem ( e.g rigger rod 8 1/2 ft slider 7 1/2 or 8ft). I also try to run spoons that run at compatible speeds to avoid twisting at higher speeds. It also can help to run light flutter spoons on the slider and regular or heavier spoons on the main line as the lighter spoon will pretty much stay in the bow of the main line. Using ball bearing swivels can also help reduce line twisting. I've known people that use 2 ft. sliders successfully as well so having a long length may not be as crucial as some may assume.

JJ I have seen folks at that spot keep ones under 9 inches and out on the pier they keep stuff that I wouldn't even put in a fishbowl....I don't know if they feed their cats or what not enough meat to even fillet

Bob the spot mentioned is not even 50 feet from one side to the other, right out in the open directly next to a main highway within clear sight of anyone passing in cars. It already has way too much pressure on it. We didn't even fish it this year for that reason. Crappies like perch are very vulnerable in the Spring and there aren't all that many in there anyway anymore. The ones we have caught there in the past have been released for that reason.

I have no idea what folks are thinking when they give out small spots than can be fished out in a hour or so if the fish happen to be there. I like giving out useful info as the next guy but the Internet is a double edged sword and can be very destructive of small limited fishing spots. In these cases people need to get off their butts and physically explore areas for potential spots . This type of fishing is not anything like lake trolling etc. and places can easily be ruined by too much fishing pressure on them sometimes in a single day.

John gave an excellent summary of the issues surrounding the selection of line for dipseys as well as rod concerns and "expert" advice is always great to see on here and helpful to all.

If you have a breaker box try resetting it. If you have inline fuses (should) check them and replace if look burned. It is usually that but if not maybe a bad switch. Screwwy Louies near Fairhaven used to fix them and may still. If not try Fish307 in Lake George.

Me too first time in ONE year