Sk8man

In the past I have just cut the points off them so the weight difference isn't critical and they don't hang up with that done.

There was a pic recently posted that showed the ramp was blocked off with construction stuff going on there so not usable

Very well said Brian. This is at the heart of it. Luckily we have some very knowlegeable, creative, and generous people on this website; and especially some of the charter guys that freely share things that work and things that don't work so well vastly accelerating the learning curve for all of us and improving the sport in many ways. This website is special and so are the people here.

For some of us the leap has been even more extreme from still fishing with live bait in the 50's and 60's to copper jerking in the 60's and 70's then making your own planer boards for top lining in about 1975, Riviera manual downriggers in 1976 with 8 lb weights (for use on a buddy's boat as I didn't have one) and electrics and 15 ft outriggers in 1984; all from a little 13 ft. Boston Whaler I bought used in 1979 which then saw action out out in the middle of Lake O for salmon. This stuff has come light years in a relatively short time frame

This thread is a good example of the fact that there can be many effective ways of doing things and it largely depends on your own level of confidence in whatever it is you are doing. This is true of much of fishing and the reason for the existence of so many different knots

Yup that is also a good approach.

The swivel recommended above is for the terminus of the leader. It might be a bit smoother using a #8 SPRO barrel swivel between the main line and the leader (about 50 lb test so strong but small)

You've received excellent information and the only thing I would add is to use a SOLID RING ball bearing swivel snap; especially with lighter lines as the line can nest in the groove of the split ring type and sever the line. As long as your drag is working well you should be fine.

JJ has been doing this for awhile on different bodies of water and knows his stuff so you have a good resource there.

There is a tackle shop there right up the same road the park is on (Fishy Business) . I'm sure the guy that owns it (Gerry) could fix up up with whatever you need as well as offer you specific advice. He is probably the best source of info on Keuka and has everything you need. He is located at 3737 Pepper Road Bluff Point NY (607) 368-2306 or (315) 719-3673 (closed Tuesdays)

While we are on the topic I will add that the Berkely Big Game mono although very inexpensive in the 10-50 lb test range is some of the most durable and strong mono I have ever used. I used the saltwater version for years (Hombre) in the past and I have used nearly every brand of mono over the years and I have the most faith in the consistent performance of the Big Game line. The Vanish fluoro from them is the absolute worst line though.

x2 and also use fluoro on my Seth Green leaders on the Finger Lakes

Don I think I would be concerned about the chemical reaction of the fluoro with the glue. I use a clinch knot with 7 wraps and wety cinch it until totally tight....have never had one give.

Each material has its best uses and strengths and weaknesses. Mono has varying degrees of stretch depending on the brand, pound test etc. and usually is larger diameter than fluoro of the same pound test. Fluoro has a harder outer surface and in many cases is more abrasion resistant; but it is also more brittle in the cold weather and at the terminal knot. Fluoro is reputed to have a less visible signature in the water than mono as well as the lesser diameter making it a good choice for shallow water situations especially, and often with long leads in that situation you may not wish to have much more stretch in your line. On the other hand, when lines are run deep mono may be preferred as there is usually more tension in the line and when the leader is paired with braid, wire, or copper which have little to no stretch it acts to buffer strong abrupt hits from fish and perhaps even occasional contact with underwater objects or touching bottom (instead of an instant "snap-off). I use both materials selectively but many folks use just one or the other. I tie my own trolling flies with 50 lb Big Game mono after experiencing a couple snap-offs from vicious hits on flies I bought that were tied with fluoro. My feeling is that the mono offers just a little needed stretch on the fly termination when there is none from the wire or braid. You will find hard core adherents to both materials but my take on it is that they are both good but it depends on specific use.