Sk8man

Three lines per person and five lures per line maximum hook 15 points total

Might want to just keep the walleye setups for just that and use for browns in the Spring as well. You have received some real good advice here. Wire divers are the way to go in general with twilli tips or roller rods. Daiwa 47's and 57's do a respectable job for reels An often overlooked reel is the Okuma Magda Pro MA 45 DX (older ones with metal frame as they are inexpensive, pretty durable, brass gears, and have an 18 lb drag and will hold the 1,000 ft of wire just fine. Not sure about the newest model as they are total composites. Just have to be careful not to let the line counters bang around in the boat as they are a little sensitive. If you have money to spare do it right and buy a couple Daiwa Saltists. Although relatively expensive they have about the smoothest strongest drags you'll find. The Dreamweaver Deep Divers (124 mm also listed as #5's sometimes) are the ones I prefer for all around use; especially in the summer to get deep.

Just a little food for thought in addition to the info mentioned: Leadcore and copper run quite differently in the water and a 300 copper runs deeper than a 10 color leadcore. It is important to run the leadcore to the outside as it will be higher in that setup if lengths are the same. Leadcores also sway a lot from side to side and coppers do so but less and they undulate up and down more. I have never had two coppers get into each other but have had coppers and leadcores tangle as well as each of them with wire dipsies When trolling speed is relatively fast all of them rise up somewhat and if turns are severe "el problemo" arises. When running multiple boards with these setups a lot of care has to be observed while letting them out (slowly). Wire dipsies can also present problems sometimes unseen such as when one releases without it being detected and it can get into the other stuff for awhile all the time winding things up on the lines. When running the multiples keep big turns to a minimum. and also be aware of how the rod tips look when doing any relatively large increases in speed. The way the boards are acting in the water can also provide clues to how things are running.

I agree Keith. It is no accident that the bill was nearly 6,000 pages long and that nobody reads what they voted for except perhaps some poor schmuck intern that had to stay up nights just so they could assure the congressperson that their favorite pork barrel project was in there. Government no longer serves the people regardless of party in power. The Founding Fathers probably would not be surprised but certainly disheartened by the perversions of the system and Constitution.

They also extended the funding of hundreds of millions for cleaning up of the Great Lakes from what I read.

Back when the numbers of them were greater we used to get them on 6 inch flashers (often painted or taped red with medium spoons trailing them colored from orange to hot pink to bright red trolled fast with short leads often right in the prop wash. They seemed bolder than chinooks or steelhead As Bill mentioned they are pretty much "incidental" catches now and you don't see the small schools of them as in the past. Lake Clear Wabblers (largest size) with small light weight spoons also worked with them

Great point! I don't know why I forgot that one The danger can exist many yards away from the bubbler itself too as the current from it can travel along the shoreline.

Yeah I know in the past he apparently got pizzed unless you were a patron of his place

True although he was mentioning Finger Lakes and Loon is more like a pond but some decent perch, crappies and bass in there. Problem is usually parking unless you know someone that lives there. Other than that the Laff a Lot restaurant lot is about the only game in town.

Less common than kings and not stocked in as great numbers

Honeoye is usually the first to ice over as it is the shallowest and is pretty protected. You do have to be VERY cautious though as there are gas pockets and stream run offf that can make entry and or exit unsafe early and late in the season. Don't take any chances out there. . Take a spud with you and "feel' your way out

John gave you great specific advice on the crimping procedure. Twilli tips can be used but you may need to point the rod tip right at the crimp as it is coming in for smoothest entry. Most of my dipsy rods are roller rods which makes the transition easier. For regular dipsy setups I also use a crimp at the terminal end of wire with a strong solid ring ball bearing swivel attached but I encase the crimp connection in clear plastic glue (with glue gun). That way the crimp cannot move back and forth to ANY degree to sever the wire. Using the clear hot glue allows you to be able to view the inside of the connection to monitor it. I have never had one of them break at that point in over 40 or more years.