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Don Supon

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Everything posted by Don Supon

  1. fish bottom in cold (40) water at .8 -1.4 down speed. cowbells and spin-n-glos
  2. Get some aluminum plates cut for you at a local fabricating shop
  3. Artpark drift is good for trout during fall and winter. A three-way drifting rig works for most using a kwik-fish style lure off a rod-length leader of 8 lb. fluorocarbon and a 1 oz. pencil weight. Pink/silver, green/silver, blue/silver (all in scale pattern) size 9 or 11. Go catch em! Expect to lose weights and lures as bottom is quite rocky. Target depths from 10-30 ft.
  4. The oil resevoir has a black cap. The neck this cap is on has a mark near its base that is the top-off mark. Fill to this point. Where did the old oil go? You have a leak somewhere in the system. With mine, I once tried to use my kicker without disconnecting from the 135hp main engine first. The oil was forced into the control module and it had to be replaced. Hopefully you only have to replace the piston that moves the motor. Fill the resevoir and test on the water. Look for an oil film on water surface. If leakage is from the piston, a slick will be present.
  5. Fill holes using old screws into 5200. Suggest you purchase a mounting block for all future transducer applications, That way you don't drill into transom.
  6. My solution several years back, eventually, after the same things happening to me, was to sell the cannonlink and change the circuit board to a Mag 10 circuit board. Replacing the Mag 20 board first did not correct the problem. Lost the bottom track and ion control adjustment, but at least have functioning riggers.
  7. IMO, raising the pump an inch from the bottom will not do anything. Why? Because the rain water will still enter the bilge and activate the pump, but at an inch higher level. With water draining back to the bilge with pump shutoff, the same conditions exist because the pump could not expel the one inch of water left by raising the pump an inch. The check valve sounds reasonable.
  8. My Lund trailer (by Shorelander) has bunks. Made from treated wood covered with marine carpeting.
  9. Prop depth is important to consider, but don't forget about transducer placement for the FF and possible interference..
  10. Fish in 1st pic. 2nd pic shows a fish swimming with you for a while and in the "cone" during that time.
  11. Garmin makes AP models for main motors and for kickers. TR1 Gold is for kickers up to 15 hp. Cost is over $2000, but worthwhile IMO. Been using it for years on a 18' Lund with 9.9 kicker and love it.
  12. 10 lb leader-definitely. Troll stickbaits in shallow water, save the spoons for 20ft. plus. If mudline exists, use firetiger/chartreuse baits in the colored water (rattles help) or natural colors in clear water. Sticks should run in less than 8FOW. Look for temp changes and fish warmest water the hardest. When water temps near shore get above 55*, move out deeper and fish near bottom. Target 50* water if you have a probe.
  13. The WHI should go off as planned as launching from Wilson will be possible even when they remove the ice boom. Getting to Canadian waters to fish or fishing the Red Can area could involve long runs to get around the ice if it is still coming down the river. Some productive areas of Lake O may not be fishable because of the floating ice and may force fishermen East to Ollcott.
  14. Use long leads from the DR to lure. 100' would not be too long. Experiment with boat speed. Very typical to not mark fish in shallow water. Water temp very critical, if you have a way to measure it.
  15. As so many have stated, the biggest danger is the wood in the water. Logs sometimes are invisible until you get very close. Ice is usually obvious. Waterlogged, logs can float near the surface with nothing above the water surface. It is foolish to run wide-open in river current waters and nearby. Keep eyes peeled forward on 50 yds. of water surface in front of boat and a hand on the throttle. No sightseeing, keep focused at all times and have someone else watching constantly also. Expect these conditions for the entire month of May this boating season.
  16. Give some whitening toothpaste a try.
  17. West Marine stores should have them if one is near you. Had them in 2007 when I got them to hold my boat fenders.
  18. Top off the oil to the fill line.
  19. Don Supon


    Small minnow (or pieces) on a small size Aberdeen hook(s) with split shot above to keep it down, tiny bobber, fish just under the ice. Smelt like to travel just below ice, No hook-set, just lift until fish is felt and quickly remove from water. They just hang on and are rarely hooked. Smelt releases itself when you lower it to top of ice surface. Gently lift when smelt pulls bobber to side of hole. No fish-drop it back without removing from water. You have to keep slush out of hole, they rarely pull bobber under. Clean and cook over charcoal right there on the ice. Fish bottom for perch while top fishing for smelt in separate hole. Various places on Grand Island in protected bays or marinas with little or no current. Mid-April on for smelt run in lower Niagara. Dipping occurs near or typically after dark, often well into the night.
  20. Suspect you'll be losing tackle and a fish, at some point, if you get it in. I won't try it.
  21. Try a 42nd spinnie, crinkle fly, and fly lead of 3X spinnie length. 20ft. off the ball at depth of fish on the FF.
  22. If replacement cables aren't an option, did you consider repair of the old ones? Liquid tape and/or electrical tape should insulate the individual wires, assuming they are still intact. Then cover the entire cable with plastic or rubber tubing to provide protection. It won't look great, but should allow you to keep using them until you are ready to replace.
  23. Boom length less important than easy access to ball/cable for attaching fishing lines to it. There is only a 4 ft. difference in spread width. BigJon booms tilt up, but the ball swings freely with the waves. (not familiar with Proos). Swivel bases help, but access to the ball will determine rigger mounting location. You need to think about obstructions inside the boat that could make access difficult when the rigger is swiveled to attach lines and if the gunnel is strong enough and wide enough to support the torque of the rigger/ball. Power leads from the battery to the riggers are also a factor to consider. Where will the leads be routed? What gauge wire for the power lead length (heavier for longer)? Think these things through before getting any down rigger.
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