TyeeTanic

OK, so are we really saying blowback isn't an issue? I think it is for these reasons: 1) You only have so much cable on that rigger ... so blowback means you can reach down as deep with that amount of cable ... and yes, I know you might ask, well how deep you planning on going ... you know some guys are trying to hit 150 ft down ... that's an insane amount of cable out on a 10 lb weight (12 lb as well). 2) Time it takes to get up and down ... blowback can add 30 to 40% more cable ... so that motors gonna be working, and you're going to be waiting! 3) If you also have your dipseys deep ... much better chance of tangles with blowback, especially if there is cross currents at deeper levels. I'm sticking to my original argument ... 12 lb minimum, 16 lb if you can.

I had a smart troll system, and I could accurately measure true depth vs. length of rigger cable out. The 10 lb weights had A LOT more blowback than a 12 lb. Based on that, I would say the minimum size should be 12 lb. A 16 lb weight is even better ... so take your pick. I would not recommend anything under 12 lb.

100%. You should have different setups. If you don't want this, but need the versatility of being able to do both on one rod ... well, he has three choices: - connect the lure directly to the 30 lb mono line ... not the best, it's a visible and stiff line. - connect the flasher to the end of a leader ... I'd be tempted using 25# fluoro then, instead of 20#. - swivel connect a 20# leader to the end of the the 30# mono and be prepared to hand bomb the fish in last 15 to 20 ft.

Don't know ... tried it once ... don't think I'll try them again. Maple syrup on rainbow or chinook on the other hand ... yummy! I always cook them that way ... put fish on a cedar plank and cook with a marinade. I actually let the fillets soak in white wine, maple syrup, balsamic, garlic and some spices for around 4h to 8h in a zip lock bag, then I cook them on the plank. I keep pouring the excess marinade onto the fillet as they cook. Then I might drizzle some maple syrup right onto the cooked fish and let it glaze on last 1 minute. It's exceptional.

Sorry I didn't assume you don't read ... if you look at my 2nd post above, I point out that I am on North Shore ... and then I said the thing about having 4 lines in the water with 2 people because I didn't want anyone to think I was doing illegally, so you know everyone would be happy in their bubbly world. But even that didn't work, because some people need to make something out of nothing ... especially when if they just read they'd understand a little more. LOL. Man it's becoming difficult trying to help people nowadays ... so many keyboard warriors out there!

Yup, lymans are the way to go for staging salmon. But I'd rather be catching silver fish in mid to end July than dirty chickens in Aug.

I'm on North Shore ... Canada. 2 rods per angler. But still even if it were South Shore ... still 2 guys ... 2 rigger, 2-3 dipseys, 1-2 copper or leadcore (depending on depths I was aiming for).

Riggers work, dipseys work and copper works. I wouldn't go out without 2 dipseys and 2 riggers in the water (and a friend to ensure I had 4 lines in the water legally).

8',6" is a good size, I don't think there's any advantage going longer and spending the extra $$$. The rod tips are going to be higher to the planer boards, and obviously the line out to the side, so there won't be any interference with the dipsey or rigger rods.

30# mono ... keeps the fleas off, and still a nice diameter to tie knots with. But generally if going to spoons, we would put on a 15# to 20# fluoro leader around 15' to 20' long. Dipseys, need braid or wire to the dipsey. After that we generally tie 30# or 40# fluoro from dipsey to paddle and paddle to fly. Total length from dipsey to fly is around 8 to 10'.

Get the line counter ... you need that for wire ... I mean there's other ways to figure out how much line out ... but they are a pain in the backside. I would never do that while trying to attend to a few other rods.

I surprisingly got really good life out of the Convector CV30D's. I don't think you can get better value for money. Takota 600's are nice, but $$.

Yes, this ... but for beginners I'd say set the outside ones first. The reason is, until you've locked the real and it bites deep into the water, even on a 2 1/2 or 3 setting, the dipsey is not pulling out to the side as much ... it's like just sinking in the water straight down where you plonked it in (on the extreme) ... which is why Gator is saying let it out slowly, so it bites and pulls a bit to the side ... but if you don't know how to do that, and have the inside dipsey deployed ... you can drop the outside dipsey down too fast, it can be inside of the inside diver! Then when you lock that real ... it grips into the water and pulls to the side, right into the inside wire and cause a massive tangle. If I haven't written that clearly, just trust me and put the outside divers out first. It'll save you a lot of headaches. If the outside diver hits with a fish, and you real it in and want to redeploy, the safer option is to pull the inside line, then deploy the outside first. Good time to check or change the inside wire bait. Once you get good at it, you can deploy the outside without retrieving the inside.

Depends on use, I'd say every 3 or so years. But you'll feel it, the texture gets a bit rough, and it starts looking frosty/opaque ... that's when you definitely know it's time.

I think I'm going to bring a banana on my next charter outing and see what happens. LOL.