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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. True Grit is being moved this week to its new location on Lady O by it's new owners . SOLD .
  2. Hull was soda blasted to gel , barrier coated and painted , this was first year in water since that was done . So there is no build up of uneven paint on her . bottom looks like it came off the showroom floor and was then painted.
  3. Furuno FCV 600 L will go with it or possibly a FCV 585 . The 585 is on the Rampage listed here. Once one boat sells the other one comes off the market as we are keeping one of them. That potential option will be discussed face to face with buyer.
  4. Trolling bags not needed , 8" keel keeps her in the ditch nicely.
  5. Pictures of cabin will be taken and put up by weekend.
  6. Yes that's the main reason auto pilots are installed on fishing boats. Raymarine makes two models a EV 150 and EV 200 , you need to look at your hydraulic steering cylinder , located by your rudders .and get the capacity off it. Then see which unit you need based on that. Have both on two different boats , both have upper and lower controls. I assume you have hydraulic not mechanical based on having a ,having a bridge .
  7. After looking at the picture [ and its surroundings ] , my first suggestion would be to pull the engine and check the stringers for rot. Check where the engine mounts are attached to the stringers to verify you have dry , solid wood. I would check the transom itself as it looks like you have a outdrive and the factory does a lousy job of sealing them from day one. More rot and headaches $$$ I would put money down that you have rot going on in a crtical area and putting any money into that hull is not worth the time or effort unless you want to tackle a project, For what a semi decent used boat cost vs replacing the engine you would be better of buying another boat. .... You have a standard chevy 350 block which can be rebuilt by a engine shop for 3500 , the same price as a better taken care of boat with same drive system, which if you went that way you could possibly have a spare outdrive in case you ever needed it.
  8. If you can get at it the tank dimensions will give you the exact amount [ if its not a V design ].
  9. Unless it's a aluminum hull you are not going to find a boat in that weight class with your targeted length of 22 -32. Probably would try looking for a outboard to give you more deck space and less working parts than a I/O. Straight inboard will not cut it for any sort of creek fishing. With you weight concerns I think you can safely rule out just about anything over 23'.
  10. If there "cheaper " there is a reason for that. If your fishing O as noted by Mr, Powell a express boat is a much better option. More room under the top to get out of the elements , cold, rain , heat ,sun and wind in the spring when the lake is cold ,especially if you have a crew of more than 2. No reason to be fishing from anywhere but the cockpit on O . If your bass /.pike fishing and casting into the weeds I could see a walk around . What is your budget ? Boating along with fishing is a expensive hobby and the boat itself is probably the " cheapest " part of the process if you do it for any length of time . Are you going to dock it or trailer it ? What drive system are you looking for ? Any particular length that you have targeted ?
  11. Stationary booms , plastic rod holders and the size of a Mack truck. I can see my FishHawk head unit from anywhere but the cabin on my boat . No need to walk over to the rigger to get info and the Bluetooth version show up on the cell which I never use anyway. I am sure it's a nice unit but they failed to address what I mentioned.
  12. Cap E post is from January 2018 ,highly unlikely he has not sold them or will even reply. Original post is from 9/17 .Maybe start your own thread requesting whatever your looking for.
  13. Someone dragged you over the coals for 595 and it wasn't the USCG. I have been paying a yearly fee like everybody else that has a boat Documented. They do now offer a option now where you can pay a few years in advance but not lifetime. Call the DMV if your unsure about the Registration fee . I assume you do not have a Title for the boat, just what the USCG sent you , correct ?
  14. It does not cost 600.00 to have it Documented unless your paying a third party. It is less than 100.00 for the initial Doc. then it around 25.00 per year when you renew it yearly. The paper work can be downloaded on there Web site and it usually takes 2-8 weeks. As long as you have proof [ copy of what you sent in ] that you sent paperwork in and your stopped by the law before your get your Doc paper work and hull number they will not write up for that infraction. I have one boat that was documented when I bought it and when I went to the DMV to have it registered as well they would not let me register it. They called Albany and doubled checked while I stood there and said it does not have to be registered as long as it was Doc. Now I have heard/read where some people say it also has to be registered ,just stating what happened to me. When you Doc it they keep your Certificate of Title and your Doc papers replace the C of T.
  15. They do make in line connectors for those type of cables . Very easy to use and will also allow you to go from a 6 wire system to a 5 wire [ that's just a random number depending , on your specific needs.] I needed that as I changed FF and that had a different plug in's at the FF vs the ducer plug . Wanted to keep the in hull ducer and just cut ducer wire so I could use FF plug without messing with a new ducer. No soldering or shields needed .connector has screw type mini clamps if memory serves me correct.
  16. I would Google ,Mansfield toilet parts or pellet holder and see what comes up. I am sure they have a rebuild kit for it, Did you take any of it apart to see if its just a common O ring leaking ?
  17. I also use Gallagher,,,,,, Charter Lakes Marine Insurance , They have there own sub forum on thehultruth.com Never a claim and rates have remained the same for the last 4 years.
  18. 5 year old thread ,highly unlikely it hasn't sold by now .
  19. During tourist season 50% of the water goes over the Falls during daylight hours. The rest is diverted equally to both sides of the border. During the nighttime about 75% of the water is diverted ,flowing into the turbines AND into a holding area where it is pumped up into the reservoirs ,small lakes ,on both sides. When the demand is higher during the daylight hours the pumps actually turn into turbines as water is released from the reservoirs ,into the holding area and then down through the turbines. Off season they allow less to go over and more to feed the power plants with the same amount eventually hitting Ontario . There is a control dam above the fall that maybe goes 1/3 to 1/2 of the way across the river . Not enough to stop it but more than enough to decrease the amount of water going over the Falls . This is how they back up the water at nighttime so it is forced into the tunnels and feeder river on the Canadian side [ not sure if they still use that as they completed some tunnels on that side a couple years ago.] The mouth of the Niagara has a somewhat natural underwater dam as the water depth decreases to about 20 ' from the 35 to 60 where Erie ends, this also slows down the influx of water into the Niagara. The funneling of the water into the narrow river just above and below the Peace Bridge also contributes to it slightly backing up into Erie .No matter how you cut it IMHO it's a man made/influenced disaster that should of never happened.
  20. The sacrificial anodes are a "softer metal " that the stray current attacks first. On inboards you will find them on prop shafts , rudders ,and trim tabs. Also inboards will have a bonding system that is basically heavy duty wiring attached in a series to every metal part that goes through the hull and makes contact with the water , including through hull water intakes if they are bronze. The purpose is to spread out the damage that can be done by electrolysis eating away at the weakest /softest metal that is exposed. By doing this it basically makes them all the "same " when being zapped. So it spreads out the damage ,hopefully making it all minimal ,instead of say the prop shaft taking all the brunt . Generally you can get two years out of them in this area because of the shortened season , depending on where you keep slip your boat . If in a marina with a lot of boats plugged in it's going to be every year. I believe they go more by weight more than appearance when declaring them no good.
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