Bozeman Bob
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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob
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4tf post also shows seller's phone number, might want to call- text your questions. -
Not sure how you winterized it correctly if you had raw water in your exhaust manifolds. There is no low RPM bypass valve that allows coolant water to skip the block. That's what your thermostat is for. Would have to see the schematic for your cooling system to see why you did not get anti freeze in the manifolds like you hoped for. I highly doubt your impeller is the reason , I used to put new ones in every couple years when I had I/Os. So replace it and see how it works out for you next fall ,doubt that will affect the outcome. You should have a separate water pump on the block ,just like a car ,that circulates the water through the block .Generally the outdrive pumps water through a heat exchanger,[ which should have a drain plug as well, for your power steering,] then to the actual water pump , which circulates the water through the block , manifolds and out the exhaust. Again the easiest thing to do is pull the block , exhaust manifold and elbow manifold bronze plugs , then take a zip tie and clear the holes out of rust .
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First off its a little late to be asking this question . If you have a open cooling system which it sounds like, I would say you did not put enough anti freeze into the block. The block alone , if a V-8 will hold at least 2 gallons , your is a V-6 , not sure of its capacity ,then however much is held in the hoses comes into play. You are "probably " cracked block free " if you drained the manifolds , including the elbows and better yet if you drained the block ,which does have either a petcock or brass bolt on each side. Sounds like your outdrive impeller is working if you got some anti freeze out the exhaust . Always best in a open system to open all the brass plugs , manifold ,elbows and block before purging . Some people like to keep it in after that for rust inhibition . Me , I open everything up ,blow some air into every outlet and don't bother with any anti freeze. , air doesn't freeze. Do you have a manual , they usually tell the procedure for there block/
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The paperwork when I did it needed info for trailer and tow vehicle . Distance between axles on trailer , then distance to rear axle on truck and or distance to front axle. Overall length of set up , capacity of axles and tires also comes to mind. Then you are restricted to usually daylight hours and sometimes not allowed to tow on weekends or near big cities during certain times of the day.They may require your tow route as well and a over width sign to hang on the transom . We had one for the front of the truck , but took it off after the engine started to overheat due to lack of air hitting the radiator.
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Probably need a permit for Ohio ,Pennsylvania and New York , if your going the legal route. If boat doesn't have a trailer I know a guy that does it part time and has the permits. NY permits are 50- 75.00 . You could Google it and get someone to get all the permits for you ,which might cost you another 75.00. What is the beam at the transom ? That's usually the spot where a trooper would measure . I break the law and move my over width boat (10' ) on a Saturday or Sunday and have a pick up follow me for the 35 mile ride ,have yet to be stopped and many times have driven by Troopers and Sheriffs cars. But that's me.
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How did she forget , Into the Mystic ? Also covered by Joe Cocker. Down by the River , Neil Young
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^^^ Did the same thing when boat was stored in my driveway, luckily it is stone and not cement or paved. Sort of thought the same thing but figured he would of looked at that to see if anything on the outside or lower shaft was stopping them from.dropping.
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All the replies above are spot on . You will be happier in the long run with the bigger boat no matter where you fish. The 6,000 difference is on a new boat ? Seems to be quite a few nice used ones in the size range listed on here and Craigs. Just a thought if spending a extra 6K is not in your wheelhouse. Don't want to get anyone in a uproar but ,,,, I have not heard a lot of good things about Trackers. I would rather buy the 17.5 StarCraft listed on here and if need be trade in the desirable Honda 4 stroke 50 hp to go bigger. Quality aluminum hulls last forever and what your saving by going that route would allow you to buy a brand new or slightly used engine . Would water test any boat to make sure it has the performance that you want. [ I have no connections with that boat or seller. ]
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Taking a guess here . If you push the rudders back up as far they can go and there is nothing on the rudder shaft that looks like it would impede the rudder I would drop them down again. Then I would put a block of wood over the top of shaft and tap that with a hammer to see if you get any movement. The only place that makes sense for some kind of keeper device should be on the upper rudder shaft and not in or below the rudder housing. The ones I dropped a few years ago had a tar substance on them which led to the tapping sequence ,they dropped like a rock after a few hits. As I recall there was a key way along with a collar that kept the rudder shaft in the proper position
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Your going to need the maximum rpm's that the engine gets at wot with a average load on board. Then read the tag (usually )on the valve cover to see what the max rpms are ,probably around 4400- 4600 for that motor if memory serves me right. At this point you can take your old prop to a prop shop and get there recommendation. Or try wire brushing the outer hub where the retaining nut rest on. The numbers are normally stamped there. The most common pitch for that setup is 19 " or 17 " and the diameter probably in the 15+ - range. So If you have a 19 and are hitting 4,000 rpms you would go down to a 17" pitch with the same diameter to get your rpms up to the recommended number. And that number is key, so that your not constantly lugging the engine if over pitched or revving it too high if under pitched. Basically if you want to skip the prop shop we need the rpm number and what's on there now. I have never seen a prop that isn't stamped ,so do some wire brushing or scraping to locate it.
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Wilson Harbor Invitational Update
Bozeman Bob replied to dreamsteelie's topic in Tournament Talk, Shows, Events & Seminars
To the statement about US citizens not being allowed into Canada because of a possible record ,like a DUI. Canadian laws have changed. You can buy a Canadian license on line and as of last year you are allowed to enter Canadian waters and fish or cruise without calling in. If you anchor or touch land in any way , then you are required to call in and possibly be denied entry. So my understanding is ,even if you have a misdemeanor of some sort ,your legal under the new ( original ) law.. -
Agree with FF34 , your eyes will adjust better with the light above and even or slightly in front of your sightline. Just think of walking in the woods with a flashlight ,you can see more if you hold it over your head than holding it at your waist and pointing forward. Stadium lighting is always high for a reason. You will not get any glare off the bow of the boat that way. Spotlight or HID LED bar light is your next option . Spotlight is good for zeroing in on buoys ect in the harbor. LED is more of a flood light and has no moving parts to break as well as working better in a fog ,[ for other boats to see you ] if you are caught in one without radar. Either is better than nothing.
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Wouldn't think you would get any glare off your windshield , seeing that you don't have one . I would mount it on the T-Top , the higher the better. That should reduce any glare off the water . Most ,if not all hard top boats have them mounted on the hard top , not there pulpits. Seems like it gives more off a seeable spread and is out of harms way. Most of the boats I see with pulpit lights are soft top and unless they make a mounting bracket on there windshield frame have no other choice as to where to mount them. Then if they did they are dealing with hiding wires in and around there frame ,which is easier said than done.
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Might want to post or search this on thehulltruth.com -
Sold / Closed 22 ft Starcraft Islander Outboard $10,000
Bozeman Bob replied to digitroll's topic in Boats for Sale
Boat is not sold out, he has 10 in his driveway. Take a drive over and look at them. Maybe he will give you a deal when you hand him American cash.....Ban the spam.... -
Sold / Closed 1997 Starcraft Islander 191v fully rigged
Bozeman Bob replied to chowder's topic in Boats for Sale
David will still buy it ,just send him your ss number,bank account number ,credit card number and for good luck your drivers license. He sounds legit ,haha -
for sale : usa Sylvan Offshore 22- SOLD
Bozeman Bob replied to JTM203SOUTH's topic in Boats for Sale
Hello my name is David ,I do not have command of the English language and want to buy everyone's boat. Just send me all of your personal info and I will be the happiest scammer on the planet ! -
His boat is " sold out ", good one acammer -
Sold / Closed 20' Grady White Overnighter $7,000 OBO
Bozeman Bob replied to RebelSportsman's topic in Boats for Sale
Scammer ^^^ no doubt -
for sale : usa Lund GS Tyee, 2000 Reduce Price
Bozeman Bob replied to Gray Ghost's topic in Boats for Sale
Scammer ^^^^ -
I would upgrade to a Petronix system and lose the points. And use there coil , different ( ohms or resistance ) than what's on your engine now. Generally cleaning the points is a stop gap measure as the " plating" is now sanded off and pitting will soon follow. Also seems to improve starting and low speed , as in trolling , performance. -
I also wondered, but not about the weight capacity . There must be a load of some sort on the out drive.The pushing and or torque action of the prop comes to mind. Is the structural strength of Coosaboard the same relative to the thickness as plywood ? Didn't actually see that in there write up. Plywood glued together with each sheet going in a opposite direction adds to the structural strength of it. Not sure if Coosa has that property. As mentioned the plywood worked for 20 years and that probably wasn't coated with a resin to make it more waterproof . Might want to research that ,anyway good luck !! -
Just out of curiosity, how many people/ Charters target Wally's on O ? Now compare that to Erie . There is a obvious difference and reason. The numbers don't lie ,why shove this down our throats ? Even NYS advertises differently for each Lake. Going to vote with my wallet.
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Correct on the math , just got up and brain wasn't fully engaged . So you paid around 10,000 which puts my financial numbers more in perspective. Sorry to bother you with these figures on ownership after you brought it up with your 20% of "cost" and not answer your question to your liking , I did mention I have been on boats before and after the work had been done. So go ahead and cobble it ,done with this thread . -
Ok , so if you paid 20,000 for your boat and had to outfit it from scratch lets do the math . 3 average riggers = 1800.00 FishHawk 800.00 12' MFD 2500.00 Radar dome 1500.00 Electric Planner reels and boards 1200.00 Rigger and Dipsy Rods 1200. Copper and lead core rods 1200.00 Auto Pilot ,3000.00 Tackle which would include rigger weights , house battery, extra wiring for gear ,tracks and holders along with misc nets Bogo grips.lures ,pliars ect at least 1,000 . That puts us at 14,200 and we have not paid for the summer slip [2,000] , winter storage [700 ] , upkeep on the engines [min. 150 a year per engine ] Insurance 750.00 and good old gas ,500 gallons min on twin inboards @ 3.50 per = 1750 and that = 4675 per year [min in my book ] So your first year you spent 18100.00 vs the 20000.00 for the boat. You must have heard people saying the actual cost of the boat is sometimes the cheapest part of fishing . Might want to check with both places mentioned here for pricing if you have not already ,anyway good luck with your bolt on's !!
