mr 580

Original poster last visited this site on Sept 1, 2020 after making 2 posts.

I believe that Slide Diver discontinued the original heavy weight kit with the 2oz and 4 oz several years ago. They now offer what they call the “Ultimate Weight “ Kit which is a 7 oz weight with a new disc bottom for the larger weight and a big ring. This dives pretty close to 2 to 1. I used to like that 4 oz weight and tried to find more of them but couldn’t - even spoke to SD rep. Been using the Ultimate Kit now late season for a few years.

The original poster last visited this site on June 4 2019- 2 days after he made the post which was his first. Seems he is long gone.

After having to cut a barb off a hook buried in my hand with regular side cutters, I keep a good pair of hook cutters like a Knipex on board. You fish long enough you are going to get a few hooks buried. It is worth being prepared.

For walleyes I always run rings on my SD’s as I like how the rod loads. In August when temp is below 50feet, I will use the heavy weight kit with big ring on my inside divers for more depth. Keep my outsides with std weight and ring, but I usually dial in a 1/2 number on the settings. The light bite SD’s do a good job of releasing with “trash fish” on Erie.

I use a dive rate of between 2 to 2.5 to 1 for SD’s. The charts aren’t accurate at all. Another thing you can do is to convert your SD numerical numbers to match the dipsey numbers for weight movement then use similar numbers you would for a dipsey. SD’s tend to run shallower for me. Hope this helps.

The blank is a common commercial blank and a number of spoon makers have used it including Bay Rats and R&R.

Looks like an R&R paint job and Dave has used those hex blanks in a variety of sizes.

Jann’s Netcraft offers a PAC Bay Swivel Roller Tip Guide in multiple sizes that is similar to the Torpedo Guide. I’ve used both and don’t see any difference other than the PAC Bay being about $10 cheaper.

CJC, you should be able to reach Dave at 607-729-5711. Last time I talked to him a few months ago he was busy doing contract painting most of it being blades for salmon spinners for the West Coast.

Towing with a 1/2 ton pickup the choice in trailers is important. An aluminum trailer saves quite a bit of weight vs a steel trailer. That weight savings gives you more leeway for weight of boat and gear.

Netting fish with an outboard on a bracket isn’t that much different from netting on a transom outboard. Just maybe need a longer handle on the net. Many bracket boats have a door so you can have one foot on bracket other on the deck. Like most things brackets have pros and cons- IMO the benefits out weigh the negatives.

Curious on why no outboard mounted on a bracket? To me a bracket offers more cockpit room and makes adding a kicker pretty simple plus boat performs better. Only downside is netting a bit tougher and you’ll pay more for storage. Get in the back of a bracket boat and you may rethink.

I bought a couple 300lc’s on rods this winter for $180 for the pair. At the time I checked EBay and thought used reel prices were high. Guess I should see what I have laying around.

Group 1 sold pending payment. Group 2 still available.

Both lots available-price includes the ride to your door!

Rods are all sold. Will close after everything is finalized.

TT - some decent rigger rods. Price does include shipping!

In a smaller boat application like the OP’s Lund Rebel 1625, in line’s are a better option to me from a space and storage consideration alone. If you fish with same crew, it is pretty easy to have a routine with in lines. If you want in lines to be easier to reel in try a Sam’s pro release. Big boards are awkward to store even the folding ones.

Sam, another person got them first by PM. If that deal falls through I would give you next chance. Sold-pending payment.