bout time

Agree with aluminum if you can find it. Mike 'Bout Time

Use plywood and lay the rod holder against it to draw angle. Then use a hole saw 1/8" bigger then rod holder and drill hole at same angle as rod holder Mike 'Bout Time

X 2 Mike 'Bout Time

Berts or traxtech. All accesories are interchangeable. I have run berts and cannon rod holders in traxtech tracks. One thing to think about is the finish. The bright silver looks good but shows more scratches, dings etc. As long as you mount them correctly with backer plates you can run anything you want off them Mike 'Bout Time

As long as all your battery ground posts are commoned together and return to the main engine ground it doesnt matter. this can be done by either running a jumper from engine ground to battery ground 1 and from battery ground 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3 or from running a jumper from the engine ground to a common buss bar and then running jumpers off the buss bar to each individual battery grounds. As far as the switch itself. there should be posts on the back labeled 1 and 2 and usually a center post not lableled. The post 1 and 2 will go to each battery and the center post (some have a wire) would go to the "HOT" side of the motor/starter found this on another site. this may help. The use of a switch and wiring like this is recommend with dual battery installations. A brief explanation of the operation of the switch in this circuit follows. In the OFF position, the two batteries are disconnected from all loads. The OFF position is used when the boat is being stored or otherwise not in use. It prevents any drain from the batteries. This can be useful if a circuit has been accidently left on, say a cabin lighting circuit or similar drain. Such a load can completely discharge a battery in a day or two, leading to an unanticipated dead battery situation when you return to your boat. On some switches a key lock is provided, allowing the switch to locked in the off position. The provides another level of security in preventing the boat from being used when left in storage or unattended. In the 1 position, all loads and charging currents are connected to the No. 1 battery (the PORT battery in the illustration). Starting current for the engine starter motor is supplied by the PORT battery. When the engine is running, surplus current developed by its charging circuit will flowing into the PORT battery. Current to lighting and other loads will flow from the PORT battery. The STDB battery is completely isolated and has no load current, nor does it receive any charging current. In the 2 position, all loads and charging currents are connected to the No. 2 battery (the STBD battery in the illustration). Now it supplies current required by starting and running, and it receives all the charging current from the engine. The PORT battery is totally isolated. In the BOTH position, the two batteries are connected in parallel. This has a number of implications. Unless the batteries have exactly the same state of charge, the combined voltage to the two batteries in parallel will sag to a voltage somewhat lower than the highest battery's terminal voltage. Current from the higher voltage battery will flow into the lower voltage battery and begin charging it. As long as the state of charge in one battery is higher than the other, the lower battery is more of a load than a source of power. Eventually, the batteries will reach an equilibrium, and they will both have the same terminal voltage. At that point they will both tend to supply current to loads that are attached to them, and they will both receive charging current furnished by the engine. It would seem like operating in the BOTH position would be beneficial, but that is not always the case. Even though the batteries will eventually rise or fall to the same terminal voltage when connected together, they will not necessarily become exactly the same. A battery (or any source of electrical engery) can be thought of as having an internal resistance. The lower this internal resistance the greater the current it can supply. The internal resistance will also affect how the battery absorbs charging current. Even though they are connected in parallel, it is possible that they will supply unequal currents to the loads, and it is also possible that they will accept unequal currents from an the engine charging source. If the batteries are significantly different in their age, their type of construction, and their state of charge, this unequal distribution of current can be more significant. To describe the situation in the simplest of terms, when two batteries are connected in parallel, they will probably tend to behave more like the weakest battery of the two than the strongest. Paralleling the batteries can come in handy in some situations. For example, both batteries may be discharged to a point where neither alone can provide enough current to crank the starter motor, but combined in parallel they can turn the engine over. If one battery is fully charged and the other is totally discharged, connecting them in parallel (by using the BOTH position) can cause very high currents to flow between the batteries. Extreme heat can be generated by the sudden charging of the discharged battery. Use caution in this situation. It is better to recondition a discharged battery by slowly re-charging it with an AC-operated battery charger. The arrangement of the contacts of the typical OFF-1-2-BOTH permits the operation of the switch in the range of 1-2-BOTH without ever disconnecting the batteries from the load or the outboard charging circuit. This is important, as it is possible to cause damage to the charging circuit if the battery is disconnected while the engine is running. By choosing the path of rotation of the switch, it is possible to change from 1 to 2 without moving through the OFF position. Hope this helps

Silicone will work. I prefer 3m 5200. It works great and will last a lifetime. If you ever plan on removing them go with silicone as the 3m is more a permanent solution Mike 'Bout Time

The negatives go straight to your ground (other battery, engine ground, etc) they don't go to the switch. The switch operates much as a househild light switch it just completes the "HOT" side of the circuit. Depending on your switch you can normally run it as Battery 1, Battery 2, or Both. Make sure you pay attention to what battery runs a float switch bilge for example if equipped Mike 'Bout Time

Usually little or no backing needed for wire. Put 1000' of wire on your reel. Trick is put one or two wraps around reel and hold in place with a piece of electrical tape and then spool the rest of the wire on. With Wire you will want to change out the tip to a twill tip. Simply heat up the old tip and pull off, clean the glue residue off and instal the twill tip with a drop of super glue

Not trying to take away any business from steve. Just trying to help. I definitely buy from members first. Best of luck Mike 'Bout Time

If he doesn't have any check tuna toms. I ordered a bunch a couple years ago - best investment ever Mike 'Bout Time

If your fishing FH for browns in may you won't have to go much deeper than 20 FOW. Especially this year with the cold water and ice still in the bays. My best days out of FH for.browns last year was the 3rd and 4th week of may in 8 to 15 FOW. This year would have to similar I would imagine Mike 'Bout Time

Just stopped by to grab some supplies and the store is closed for good. Sign in the window says "visit our other stores located in Irondequoit and watertown". Just trying to save anyone a trip if they planned on heading there. Mike 'Bout Time

i have had both and they are both decent for the price. If you are looking to stay in that price point and my choice was between the two i would say Convectors. they have a smoother drag and hold up better then the Accudepth plus. There are more expensive reels out there but the Convector will do anything you want it to at a decent price