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Copper/Steel Leadcore


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Tough question to answer. I'd go with a single 400-500' copper rod and run it down the chute so you can adjust how much is out if you really want to get into "junk line" fishing. However, the first thing I would do is master a 4 diver set-up.

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6 hours ago, Yankee Troller said:

Tough question to answer. I'd go with a single 400-500' copper rod and run it down the chute so you can adjust how much is out if you really want to get into "junk line" fishing. However, the first thing I would do is master a 4 diver set-up.

Very interesting…. I’ve used divers for years so that’s clearly easier. I just started fishing the west since I live in Pittsburgh and still learning the area. Seemed every boat I’ve seen out of Wilson had planers. 
 

What dipsy settings? 1 and 3 on the high diver? Thanks for the input!

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Upon recommendations last year I added a pair of weighted steel to my program. This year I am running six with two more coming in the future. Shortly the copper may be gone. If you run them with 19 strand wire they will continue to drive at the same rate.

100 ws goes to 200

200 ws goes to 400

300 ws goes to 600

If you use snap weight the bottom the limit.

Good luck and tight lines!

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Consider what your goal is long lines catch fish but the longer the harder catch and release becomes. Long junk lines tend to be increased work and decreased fun. My boat only runs them for derbies.  The 4 diver set up is good advice for sure I will say this though with a smaller aluminum when I run 4 divers I do not do cheater on the down riggers I find with kings the extra lure is almost guaranteed to get into a diver line and almost always around one and into the other  so 4 dipseys no cheater 2 dipseys cheater is okay. I use a 1 and 3 setting with a size 5 chinook inside and a size 4 for the high diver.  Also weighted steel is much more user-friendly than copper so that's my recomendation

Edited by ifishy
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23 hours ago, ifishy said:

Consider what your goal is long lines catch fish but the longer the harder catch and release becomes. Long junk lines tend to be increased work and decreased fun. My boat only runs them for derbies.  The 4 diver set up is good advice for sure I will say this though with a smaller aluminum when I run 4 divers I do not do cheater on the down riggers I find with kings the extra lure is almost guaranteed to get into a diver line and almost always around one and into the other  so 4 dipseys no cheater 2 dipseys cheater is okay. I use a 1 and 3 setting with a size 5 chinook inside and a size 4 for the high diver.  Also weighted steel is much more user-friendly than copper so that's my recomendation

Thanks! I’ve actually thought about adding a second pair of downriggers and just stick with a pair of divers. Only 8.5 foot beam so I’d have to run wingers to keep them from getting tangled 

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These days fish are often more boat shy stick with 2 riggers with the smaller boat (my opinion) there is a lot of really good info about rigging on this site when I got back I to trolling g this site cut years off the learning curve and I still pick up great tips and info here

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On 6/8/2023 at 8:41 AM, Yankee Troller said:

Tough question to answer. I'd go with a single 400-500' copper rod and run it down the chute so you can adjust how much is out if you really want to get into "junk line" fishing. However, the first thing I would do is master a 4 diver set-up.

4 river setup is in play. I’m planning to run mag divers on 1 setting (deep) and #1 divers on 3 setting. I use 30 lb torpedo 7-strand wire so I should be in good shape. Thanks for the advice and the YouTube videos have been very helpful on getting going in the west. 

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1 hour ago, TriMatt307 said:

4 river setup is in play. I’m planning to run mag divers on 1 setting (deep) and #1 divers on 3 setting. I use 30 lb torpedo 7-strand wire so I should be in good shape. Thanks for the advice and the YouTube videos have been very helpful on getting going in the west. 

That will get you running and not have any issues that's what I run and cant say weve had any problems. I've ran 4 divers 2 riggers and 2 board lines also. Just have to make sure your boards get out a ways and make slow wide turns. 

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A 200 weighted steel combined with snap weights offers a ton of versatility.  You can fit this length on a daiwa 57/okuma 453 sized reel and can be reeled in quickly on a high speed reel.  Great for running down the shoot or off boards.  As others have mentioned steel is a LOT easier to run.

 

I run 2 riggers 2 slide divers and 2 planer boards on my 19 footer and find that setup works well for me and is hard to get all tangled up.

 

I swore i would never run a reel the size of a coffee can for a long junk line but i just bought one.  =0(

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On 6/8/2023 at 5:51 PM, Earl28 said:

Upon recommendations last year I added a pair of weighted steel to my program. This year I am running six with two more coming in the future. Shortly the copper may be gone. If you run them with 19 strand wire they will continue to drive at the same rate.

100 ws goes to 200

200 ws goes to 400

300 ws goes to 600

If you use snap weight the bottom the limit.

Good luck and tight lines!

Are you saying 200ft weighted steel gets you 100ft down? 

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He is saying that if you use 19 strand wire as backing for the 100 steel (its thin and aerodynamic) the 100 steel will continue to sink and get you to about the same depth as a 200 steel would if you let out additional 19 strand wire.

 

Personally; I would want to see the data from someone that used a fish hawk TD to understand how much line out would be necessary to achieve XX additional depth on top of the steel.  It may be out there somewhere already. I have a feeling its not as simple as letting out an additional 100 foot of 19 strand and getting about another 20 foot down.  That said a line counter reel will get you consistent that that is really more important anyways IMO.

 

 

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13owhunter is correct on all points. Mathrew a representative at torpedo posted this information 5+ years ago.

 

I personal used my new smart troll to test my WS dive performance and it does or did.

The most notable issue with the extented line dive is that it is more sensitive to changes in speed and currents.

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23 minutes ago, 13owhunter said:

He is saying that if you use 19 strand wire as backing for the 100 steel (its thin and aerodynamic) the 100 steel will continue to sink and get you to about the same depth as a 200 steel would if you let out additional 19 strand wire.

 

Personally; I would want to see the data from someone that used a fish hawk TD to understand how much line out would be necessary to achieve XX additional depth on top of the steel.  It may be out there somewhere already. I have a feeling its not as simple as letting out an additional 100 foot of 19 strand and getting about another 20 foot down.  That said a line counter reel will get you consistent that that is really more important anyways IMO.

 

 

Ahhhhhh...got it. I was going nuts.  Thank you

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