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Copper rod planer board clipping


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Rubberbands and a large snapswivel work well. Hook the rubberband through the eye of the snapswivel and the clip on your plannerboard line. just experiment with rubberband size to drag of line. When a fish hits it the backing cuts through the rubberband easy.

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There is no need to add more knots, just gives it more chance to fail and add mono.  If you use Scotty releases you can clip to either the backing or the copper.  Most guys will clip to the copper.   I do both depending on how far out I am running it.  Some will add rubber bands and put it in the release.

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Be aware that if you clip to the copper and have copper in front of your board, the copper may sag into the water and drag your boards further back than where they would run if you let all the copper out.


 


I load my reels as follows: 3 passes of mono wrapped on reel spool (to prevent braided backing from sliding on spool), spliced to 50lb power pro backing, spliced to 10' 50lb leader material (use abrasion resistant leader material as this is where planer release gets attached) spliced to copper, spliced to final leader material.


 


Lots of splices, but if you use the correct splices/knots between various lines, it's a very durable rig that fishes well with little to no fuss out on the water.


Edited by John E Powell
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There is no need to add more knots, just gives it more chance to fail and add mono.  If you use Scotty releases you can clip to either the backing or the copper.  Most guys will clip to the copper.   I do both depending on how far out I am running it.  Some will add rubber bands and put it in the release.

 

That's what we do too!

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I load my reels as follows: 3 passes of mono wrapped on reel spool (to prevent braided backing from sliding on spool)

 

 

I use a wrap of electrical tape underneath then tie on the backing.  It realy gives the Power pro something to bite into and it will never spin on the spool.

 

I should have stated above that I only clip the copper to the release when it is on the Big board.  If I am using a church board then I will wrap a rubber band around the backing and clip it into the church board.

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I know tape works to keep braided lines from slipping, but I prefer to use three wraps of mono on the spool under the braided as the tape leaves a sticky messy residue on the reel. As someone overly particular about my rods and reels, I'll stick to no residue mono.

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Tall Tails,

You are just hooking the rubber band to the clip on the church board, not the backing, correct? So the line runs inside the pin on the back of the board, when the fish hits, the rubber band snaps and the board slides down the line? Am I reading that right? I'm just trying to figure out the best way to run this rig.

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I wrap the rubber band around the backing  a few times then around the front clip on the board.  I also use the pin on the back of the board make sure the backing is in that.   I wrap it tight so the board wont release when a fish hits it.  But when you reel the board up you can quickly break the rubber band and pull the pin.  Hope this makes sense.

 

 

As far as the guys using mono in between to each his own.  Just not something I need to do.

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I've had false releases clipped on the backing. And had my copper get kinked and later fail, from clipping to the copper. So I tie in 6 ft or so of 30 lbs big game. All connections with SPRO swivels.

Edited by BAZOOKAJOE
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Has anyone ever tried this?

You have a 450 copper but would like to run it as a 300, could you half hitch 2-3 rubber bands to the copper and then hook just the rubber bands to a church board release, and just run the copper behind the pin in the back of the board.  I realize that copper between the rod and the board, if hanging in the water will create drag issues, but other than that do you think it will work?  With the idea being to reduce as much stress as possible on the copper itself.

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Has anyone ever tried this?

You have a 450 copper but would like to run it as a 300, could you half hitch 2-3 rubber bands to the copper and then hook just the rubber bands to a church board release, and just run the copper behind the pin in the back of the board.  I realize that copper between the rod and the board, if hanging in the water will create drag issues, but other than that do you think it will work?  With the idea being to reduce as much stress as possible on the copper itself.

 

 

You wouldnt have much success with this approach.  It can be done with Otter Boards but I still wouldnt recommend it.  It will be much harder to get a decent hook set as you really wont be able to have it tight between the rod tip and the release.

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