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trailer tongue weight


salmonite

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so i just bought a new boat and its bigger than my old boat but i had a few questions about the trailer. First It trailers pretty good little more sway than i thought but barely and i mean barely an issue. One thing i did notice is that i can just pick the boat trailer up at the tongue and tip it back like its nothing, I mean one hand! Is this an issue? Should i have more weight on the tongue? Is this whats causing the sway or bounce in the boat during trailering? My old boat which was 3 feet shorter and probably a 1k pounds was a struggle for me to lift so thought i would ask the question.

 

Second thing is how would i shift more weight to the tongue? do i move the whole pedestal and then move the contact point of the boat lower? or raise the contact point. Right now the last roller sits perfect at the very edge of transom.  I am trying to think it out in my head but just cant wrap my head around it.

 

Thanks

 

 

fyi... 2001 fishmaster and 2001 starcraft roller trailer

Edited by salmonite
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Salmonite;

If you can move the last set of rollers to the inside of the frame, you could then just slide the winch post the same amount toward the tow vehicle. You do need tongue weight.

Good Luck!

John

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The boat needs to be repositioned and the trailer adjusted so that there is tongue weight. It should take more effort than that if it is properly balanced. That is likely what is causing the swaying.The swaying can be a real problem at higher speeds while trailering leading to loss of control of your vehicle or a rollover (sort of like the tail wagging the dog). Usually the trailer has adjustment positions or bolt holes, U bolts for moving the axle etc. or by moving the tongue forward or back so the boat can be centered but usually it is done while the boat is in the water off the trailer....depends on the trailer. When I bought my boat new I had to have it adjusted three times before it was right. Another potential problem causing swaying is if the trailer wheelbase is considerably wider than that of the tow vehicle. I had to move to a Ford Expedition from an Explorer to correct that. Another thing that can happen is if the tongue weight is "marginal" and the boat has a substantial gas tank that is partially filled the gas can slosh back and forth at higher speeds or going around corners such that things can appear to be alright until those conditions happen.

Edited by Sk8man
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When I had problems after putting on  new tires I was told to move the axel back in 6" increments until the problem went away (boat was in perfect relationship to the back of the trailer so the axel was moved). Only took me one move of 6" to fix the sway issue. With the original tires I must have been right on the edge of sway/no sway. I also added some accesory's that added weight from the original package purchase. This also plays into toungue weight. Lastly and often most overlooked is your tounge is suppose to be horizontal when trailering not tipped up or down. Different ball drop assy's should get you close if that is an issue. My neighbor drives off with his boat tilted a good 20 degrees. I imagine his boat would sway at higher speeds. Since he is just going to the local pond at 40mph he probably doesn't see it as an issue.

 

Spike

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I think every boat and trailer combination is going to take a different approach to adjustment. While changing the position of the boat on the trailer may work, you also have to consider if it will change the support of the boat significantly.

 

Since two extra batteries and a 15hp kicker motor was added to my boat (which is on a roller trailer), I positioned the boat on the trailer as far forward as possible so the back of the rear roller is even with the back of the boat when it is cinched tight at the winch stand. The position of the winch stand can be adjusted on the tongue beam to accomplish this.

 

I still had to move the axle back to get an acceptable tongue weight. On my trailer, the axle is attached to springs which are mounted to spring holding brackets, which are attached to the trailer frame with U bolts. All I had to do was jack the trailer up and support it on jack stands (blocks can be used instead) behind the axle so it doesn't cause the tongue to lift. I marked the position of the axle on the trailer frame, loostened the U bolts and then moved the axle back, then lowered it back down and checked the weight again. I was careful to make sure I moved the axle the same distance on both sides to keep the axle square with the trailer. Repeated until I had an accepable tongue weight. It is recomended to be about 6% of total weight with full tank of gas and all boating equipment.

 

Keep in mind that when you go on a trip, to pay attention to what you load in the boat in terms of tackle, coolers and other gear and how it is distributed. I try to put the heavier gear in the tow vehicle, especially on long trips.

 

You will have to look at your trailer configuration to see what is involved in changing the position of the axle. If there is wiring or brake lines you will have to deal with that as well.

 

Also I found out quite a number of years later after dealing with damage to the keel of the boat at the single middle and single front rollers that supported the boat at the keel, that the damage was due to the front of the boat bouncing on the rollers. I have since attributed that to the fact that a lot of extra weight was added to the back which cause the weight balance of the boat on the trailer to be shifted toward the rear. I now use a rachet strap to cinch the front of the boat down to the trailer at the bow ring and I no longer have that problem. The boat must be "one" with the trailer when going down the road.

 

Here are some links that may help and if you google "adjusting boat trailer tongue weight" you will find other helpful links on the sublect.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJVjK3a1IXA

 

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/014416.html

Edited by muskiedreams
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I do have a straight ball and hitch with no drop. Check out the pics of the back of the boat. I do have some adjustment fwd if needed.post-140411-14076022793129_thumb.jpg

Also see on the last roller I do have a slot I could move it up but would that scrape anything with out having a roller in the last 6 inches?

post-140411-1407602342381_thumb.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Oh I gotcha move the whole bracket on trailer not just the rollers

But I will start by weighing the my rig then seeing if I have an issue

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited by salmonite
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If you have to make an adjustment, it looks like you might be able to move the boat forward an inch or two so the back of the rear roller is even with the back of the transom. You will have to move the winch stand forward to do it. If you need more tongue weight after that (as measured like in the You Tube video with full tank of gas and all equipment) it might be better and easier to move the axle and not the rollers. You have to make sure the scale is well supported as if it is on a floor to make sure you get a good measurement.

 

When jacking up the rig, it will help to have it connected to the tow vehicle to help stabilize it for safety.

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Move the axle back 6 inches or more and check for tongue weight on the bathroom scale at level trailer attitude. 8 to 10 % on the tongue. If your boat weighs 3200 trailer weighs 800 you got 4000 total. 8 % would be 320 lbs. But you gotta take into consider the weight behind the axles. Down riggers with 12 lb weights hanging and a kicker motor. ..another 5 gallons gas can hanging on the swim platform all fulcrum weight off the hitch and needs to be compensated for.

Here is a little more advantage to the axle move to the REAR..yes to get more weight on the ball move the axle back and you will also benefit from the boat floating off and on easier without backing in the water so far. A longer wheel base from the tongue will stop the wagging and porpoise issues.

It's very simple to move the axle by loosening the u bolts at the frame. Mark the axle position and move the axle back the same on both sides. Check the scale. When it is right and you have the 8% on the tongue next you check alignment. Measure with a string from the center of the hub to the center of the hitch near the hitch lock. That reference point could be a mark placed exact center of the hitch behind the lock. Get the measurement to be the same each side at the axle hubs and then scribe a mark where the axle edge crosses the frame rail for future reference point in case you need to make adjustments later. Tighten the frame axle u bolts and you are good to go.

Not sure if your axle has brakes. .but if it does not then you are done. Tandem axle you measure the alignment at the exact Centerpoint of the space between the axles as the fulcrum point. I'm guessing yours is a single axle ..

Mark

Cent frum my notso smart fone

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