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Mag 10 dry rot cable replacement


njg0621

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So I have the old school wires that all dry rotted on my mag 10's.  I went to the local Cannon Downrigger repair man and he told me he can replace the wires.  He said that the wire that attaches to the downrigger isn't easy to install.  You need to drill it out with a 1" hole? Basically he said $45 per downrigger for the cable kit plus $25 to install.  Is this a good price? Should I just do it myself?

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Sounds a little off price-wise because the cable kit (with disconnects) alone that you want is about $54.00 plus shipping from Fish307.com. They are very easy to install....just closely observe and or mark where the wires attach inside. You may need to reseal things with silicone after and instead of drilling out the hole for the new plastic grommet fitting that the wire runs through I just used silicone to seal the existing hole up (is somewhat pliable etc.)  and after a few years now no problems whatsoever. http://www.fish307.com/cannon-mag-10-downrigger-parts-pre-2006-models/

Edited by Sk8man
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Sounds a little off price-wise because the cable kit alone that you want is about $54.00 plus shipping from Fish307.com. They are very easy to install....just closely observe and or mark where the wires attach inside. You may need to reseal things with silicone after and instead of drilling out the hole for the new plastic grommet fitting that the wire runs through I just used silicone to seal the existing hole up (is somewhat pliable etc.) and after a few years now no problems whatsoever. http://www.fish307.com/cannon-mag-10-downrigger-parts-pre-2006-models/

X2 unless battery leads are in rough condition. If so I used Minn Kota trolling motor wires which are nice, the side by side terms. Make for easy wiring and the female end comes with a nice water proof cap/plug. I never priced the battery wires from cannon, but I liked the idea to be able to plug in like a light receptacle. Personal preferance for sure.

Edited by pap
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When I bought my boat I had them install 4 plug in receptacles and I have never regretted it. Although I usually use just 2 or 3 downriggers I can relocate them anywhere in the existing 4 gimbal mounting holes giving a lot of flexibility in how I run different setups. The receptacles fit the connectors very snugly so there is never a problem with the connection and the downriggers run from a separate battery run through a 30 amp breaker.

 

Tip: When you change the connections at the motor end make sure the wires go exactly as the old ones or the polarity will be reversed.

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  I went to an electrical supply store and bought 40 feet of 10 gauge 2 wire "Low voltage lighting cable." Don't say anything about a boat or they'll say we don't carry boat stuff. For connectors I used 30 amp extension cord ends. The cable has a tracer along one conductor so you can keep track of Positive and Negative. I run the Positives to a fuse block and negatives to a grounding bar. Not a difficult job.

 

  You will have to seal the cable opening AND the joining surfaces where the two halves of the housing meet. I didn't do that, and my housings accumulated water and shorted out the circuit boards. That was an expensive lesson and down time in the prime of fishing season.

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Contact cannon. They were having an issue with some cables not being uv protected. They replaced mine for free, just needed to ship them to them or go to an authorized repair center.

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Thanks Mike.

I have damn near the same thing, only cord to deal with is the rigger cord. I also wired my light bar the same, so early morn. Lights later rigger power port, no fussing around with cords laying around or when done cords to put away. Simple like me LOL

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