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i did my floor over and used vinyl nautolex in storm grey bought it from DEFENDER at the best price around .I also used there glue which i thought was pricey ,not sure you need there glue. I secured the edges with a vinyl piece of 1/2 inch flat moulding screwed every 18 in to the side of boat so it will not lstart to pee; later on. VERY HAPPY with it

 


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I have a 1991 195GLS I bought used 11years ago. Awesome boat!!! I re-did the floor 8 years ago. Put new carpet back down but did not put the holes back in the floor for the two extra seats in the back. That's where moisture got in before and made the floor soft. My boat has a removeable piece that locks in place on the bow that lets you change from walk thru to full deck. Will try to add pictures.

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I had one several years ago.  Nice boats.  Over 6 years, only used the live wells once, and it was difficult to get all the perch out.  I would suggest leaving them out and modifying with a useful storage area - maybe drawers.  Leave the top flat for a cooler.  - OR - modify the front to accommodate a larger cooler or 2.  That was my plan, then I bought a bigger boat.

 

I really miss the inset side panels.  We used that area to hang all my spoons.  Never had to worry about leaning on an exposed hook, and, cut down on the number of boxes in the boat.  Also easy to see what colors you had.  we also laid dipsy's and flashers in the flat part of that area.  Never bounced out, and, again, no need for boxes. 

 

Mine was actually a FS model.  Same hull just had a folding back to back seat on the passenger side.  I thought about building boxes with drawers under the driver seat, but, never got around to it.  The pedestal just seems like waisted space.  It was nice being open, but, we seemed to always be tripping over stuff laying on the floor.  Some of that stuff might have been out of the way in an easily accessible drawer.

 

The shark colored vinyl isn't too bad to clean, I put it in my current boat.  You could always toss a throw rug in for the summer outings w/kids if it gets too hot on the foot.

 

 

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I have a 175gls, if it was me I would build a rod locker up the middle between the consoles like the new boats have.

it just a wasted space and the convertible seat base rocks way to much.

 

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Did mine in 99 with Marine plywood and Cabelas vinyl flooring and their glue. Vinyl has been awesome and I have dumped hundreds of 5 gal pails of water over it rinsing blood. It has held up well. My floors are now soft though and will need redone.Lessons learned. Don't buy marine plywood, exterior grade will do fine.  My floors are going bad along the edges so I'd say buy the best sealant, seal the perimeter and apply a 90 degree moulding while sealant is wet. Make it so all water must run to the bilge. Here's my layout. I run 1 120 cooler for fish and another for food up front. Live well is wasted. Note in the fish pic. the sheetmetal support I put in to tie the gunnel on the starboard side below the starboard rigger to help spread the load of that 5 ft  boom and 12 lb cannon ball in to the interior sheatmetal work . My mom and I also recovered those white blue grey hip bump pads with cablelas vinyl.

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Marine Plywood or at the very least exterior grade - the marine will be void free which is where rot usually starts - after you cut it to fit, use fiberglass resin mixed appropriately with MEK, then thinned with acetone and it will soak right into the wood - a few coats of that letting it cure in between and you won't need to worry about water or rot for a long time.   Anywhere you screw into it, you can pre-load screw with marine silicone or 3M 4200 to further seal those areas from water - cover with Vinyl.   

Edited by AnglingAddict
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Wow. Tons of ideas. Appreciate em all. I am sold on vinyl for the floors and carpet everywhere else.

I may hold off on building the bow and just leave the front flat, but even with the rest of the floor.

Although everybody I talk to seems to think I'm more than fine, I'm also still considering doing the transom. I would have it done as it's not something I have the time to dedicate to on top of the other to do's. I just feel like if I'm willing to do the boat I should take the precaution. It's in good shape I'm just being Pro active.

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I replaced the floor on my  Crestliner a couple of years ago and used a uv stabilized plastic sheet in 5/8" thickness. Never rot, srong as hell, got it in a textured Finnish so it's slip resistant. I probably could have used 1/2 but always seem to go over board. 

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I redid a 190 starcraft superfisherman.. I imagine they are fairly similar,, but I redid the floor with 3/4 marine ply,,ordered at home depot, original was 1/2",,, something I found out was I raised the floor 1/4" so that moved the consoles up and apart,, which made the windshield off from a tight meet of the swing window.. Not a biggy just had to shim outside of windshield to level it and add a piece where  they met. also had to replace floatation under floor,,, water satuation from sitting outside by previous owner,,, if possible try to salvage your floor sections so that you may use them for patterns for the new floor..I had my floor done in durabak,, and it is nice not having fish smell and slime all through carpet..a couple days in the hot sun was all I could take without washing down the carpet.. total redo including rewire. but turned out nice.. and I learned my boat from the inside out.. good luck,,,make sure you seal top bottom and EDGES like was mentioned above..

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Thanks for the pics ! I think I'm gonna go with the shark, so when there's a fat pile of chrome on the floor there's a bit more contrast

Getting marine ply. Hopefully be able to cut and test for tomorrow. Sealing will be tough. Not sure how my buddy will feel about his garage getting all stinky.

I left the counsels in since the piece that will slide under won't be too big. Hoping that doesn't bite me later.

As far as the glue, what did those with vinyl use ? Did you go for the nautolex 88 or something else?


And tonight's work...
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  If you plan on putting a Electric trolling motor in. While you have the floor out it is a great time to build battery compartments and run your wiring under the floor.If you plan on putting one on.If you plan on doing a live well in the future you may also want to run your drain fill line.I had to replace mine because it was cracked when I bought my boat.Fishing the new hose in around the fuel tank with the floor in was not fun.Make sure to check all of your wiring especially to your fuel tank clean the contacts check your hoses and clamps.

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  If you plan on putting a Electric trolling motor in. While you have the floor out it is a great time to build battery compartments and run your wiring under the floor.If you plan on putting one on.If you plan on doing a live well in the future you may also want to run your drain fill line.I had to replace mine because it was cracked when I bought my boat.Fishing the new hose in around the fuel tank with the floor in was not fun.Make sure to check all of your wiring especially to your fuel tank clean the contacts check your hoses and clamps.


Excellent idea. I'm on it. I've "sorta" cancelled the Livewell idea for now but I intend on replacing the hoses as they are hard as a rock and very brittle. I want the boat done enough where I can enjoy it then if I want a summer project of building a Livewell it won't hold me up too much.

Definitely intend on a trolling motor up front. I've got some mental plans for the bow build and will have an area for 1 battery in front of each counsel and the option to put a 3rd in the very front under bow. Plan is to just have a 24v but want the available space in case I do 36v. For now the compartment up front will be storage space.

The "kick" panels in the walk through area are going to be screwed in over the carpet so I can take them off later, or if I have the time I'm going to put a couple hinges/ doors on them, again for storage and so I can get batteries in there when I get a electric troller.
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just a thought, why not run a piece of "conduit" from the front to the back.  That way, if you decide to make changes down the road, you have an easy route for wires/hoses.  I'd leave a small piece of rope in there too, then all you need to do is tie on what you want to pull through, even if it's years down the road.  Don't imagine 20' would cost much, but, it sure would save a headache down the road.  Maybe cap the ends so no bugs/critters get in there.

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just a thought, why not run a piece of "conduit" from the front to the back.  That way, if you decide to make changes down the road, you have an easy route for wires/hoses.  I'd leave a small piece of rope in there too, then all you need to do is tie on what you want to pull through, even if it's years down the road.  Don't imagine 20' would cost much, but, it sure would save a headache down the road.  Maybe cap the ends so no bugs/critters get in there.


Will do. I'll use pvc. Cheap and easy to make connection size changes. That was my plan for the potential Livewell line. Adding some string is a great idea. Thanks !
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