hookedupf7

Transducer mount plate

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Not positive what you call it but I know there is a plastic flat plate that you put on boat to mount trans on. Do these just epoxy or do you screw them on and where can I get one?

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The advantage to the one from Cabelas is that if you decide to sell your boat etc. you can take the plate off with your (multiple) transducers attached and seal the two little holes in the transom and touchup with a little matching gel coat and then transfer the plate with everything already mounted to the new boat. I believe the epoxy method is permanent.

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Good Morning Les, 

I have used the 5200 in the past, rather permanant. Web says the 4200 is 50% as strong but does allow for removal, as you stated. As was not sure if the 4200 would hold, but apparently it does. Have you had any issues with strength?

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Been on for 15 years  since I bought the boat new and no problems detected:) But the plate is also screwed in with the 2 screws which are also sealed

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Posted (edited)

Check this out...http://www.smithmountainstriperclub.com/the-boathouse/making-a-transducer-mounting-plate

 

This is what I am doing. I made a large transom saver out of starboard material I had laying around and plan on a permanent installation using G-flex 655. The shape I made mine probably won't work on a different boat since I matched my deadrise and if I want to change ducers, or just remove one, there will be no patching holes. The transom saver stays with the boat...

 

I am also using 2 mounting screws for mine just to hold it tight until the thickened epoxy dries. I oversized my 2 screw holes and filled with thickened epoxy as well, then redrilled for the screws.

 

I have read that caulk and adhesives don't stick well to the plastic transom savers and I will be flame treating mine before installing it.

Edited by Tyee II

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Posted (edited)

There are no holes to patch as far as the transducers in the other one in the mounting plate you can relocate multiple transducers for optimal positioning and the holes in the plate itself are irrelevant as the screws don't penetrate into the transom itself. My boat is a multipurpose one and if I were to sell it someday (unlikely) everything on it comes off without it looking like a fishing boat thus appealing to a wider market potentially.

Edited by Sk8man

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Yes, every boat is a different situation, in fact my Lund was done the same way yours is done except I used Mahogany boards for my transom savers. They have  held up for over 20 years with just removing the mounting screws every few years and resealing and tightening them. 

 

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True:yes:

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Tyee - you using the 655-8 or the NRS/G flex? Which do you recommend for my aluminum?

 

Dave

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Can't remember the number, but I saw it at west marine right next to the 655-8. It said for aluminum on the box.

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Posted (edited)

Actually,  just checked the box and the 655 should work with aluminum just fine. I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff stern saver uses. The 8 in the 655-8 means 8 ounces. 

Edited by Tyee II

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Bow and Stern Marine has a bracket with remote electric steering on it. Great for single handed fishing.

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Many of the West Coast boats come with a welded on transducer bracket.

If it were a fiberglass boat Starboard is an excellent option. Its also great for all sorts of other boat projects, I used it for electronics mounts, tackle storage etc.

 

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If I had that aluminum mounting plate, I think I would still put a board of some sort on there to make it easier to adjust my transducer if necessary without drilling into aluminum every time. Or even change to a different transducer in the future, which I have done a couple times with the Lund and screwing into the board was a breeze.

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Posted (edited)

I used a large plastic cutting board available at kitchen supply stores. A mixture of epoxy is applied and the board is through bolted above the water line. Stainless screws hold well in the cutting board and do not penetrate your hull below the water line. You can change transducers dozens of times. It is flush mounted to the bottom edge of the boat's hull. The epoxy is needed as at high speeds water is caught up and sprays out from the sides of the board.

Edited by jimski2

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I mounted a stern saver exactly as instructions stated and mine started to come unglued had to drill and mount screws. Not a big fan of stern saver. Drill holes...screw in...glue and mount.. only way to go.

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I never thought about an old cutting board. Same material. You don’t have any pics do ya?


Just did a quick Google search and found a company that makes 1" thick "cutting boards". Priced a 4"x15" and it was under 20$ shipped. They make it whatever size you want and also give you corner options like bullnose, etc. I'll be doing that. Tentative plan is to use 2 screws, sealed and then drill a bunch of holes and use epoxy to mimic the stern saver idea. Great idea !!!

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2 minutes ago, NymphO said:

 


Just did a quick Google search and found a company that makes 1" thick "cutting boards". Priced a 4"x15" and it was under 20$ shipped. They make it whatever size you want and also give you corner options like bullnose, etc. I'll be doing that. Tentative plan is to use 2 screws, sealed and then drill a bunch of holes and use epoxy to mimic the stern saver idea. Great idea !!!

 

Just make sure to chamfer the inside of your holes on the board for a mechanical attachment. I used a dremel to do mine and it was quick and easy. Also, check the UV resistance of your cutting board material...not sure it's the same as Starboard material.

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