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FishingFool34

Rubber Bands and In-Line Planer Boards

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So I'm looking into purchasing the stuff to have 2 weighted steel setups to try this year. I did some searching on how to attach the 19 strand wire backing to planer boards and keep seeing people mention using rubber bands. I run offshore inline boards and am curious how this is supposed to work? I guess I'm looking for more specifics info on how this works without damaging the wire or risk of losing the board.

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It will kink your line some if you clamp on the steel. The rubber band is to wrap around the release grips to hold the wire.
I let out all my weighted steel and put my release on my backer, but you need a really tight release to hold all the weight so I use a rubber band half hitched to the backer to keep it from slipping. I also wrap it around the pads for a stronger hold on my board.


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13 hours ago, Fishnut said:
It will kink your line some if you clamp on the steel. The rubber band is to wrap around the release grips to hold the wire.
I let out all my weighted steel and put my release on my backer, but you need a really tight release to hold all the weight so I use a rubber band half hitched to the backer to keep it from slipping. I also wrap it around the pads for a stronger hold on my board.


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You are using inlines correct?  I have offshore boards with the or 18 release on the front but I'm sure the 19 strand will still slip through and kink even with the upgraded release.  So if I'm understanding correctly the wire backer is sitting just outside the release jaws and only the rubber band is being pinched?  Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

Edited by Fishmaster 196

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I believe what he is saying is the same as i run copper setups. The weighted steel or copper is put on in specific lengths 300 , 400 , etc.generally with braid backer. All of the wire is let out and board is then clipped to the backing line. I run the mag size inlines set up to trip. Sams pro release on the front and pad  with the pin on the back. The Sams release holds up well to the braid and wont slip its also very adjustable. Works well for kings or eyes on erie. Hope this helps 👍

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I think the OP and I are talking about the unique situation with us using specifically 19 strand wire for backing and not braid to take advantage of the sink rate of the weighted steel. I currently have a splice of 50 lb mono between my weighted steel and wire backer to clip the board to but then I lose the benefit of letting out more backer to have the 200 steel run deeper.
Has anyone tried using a rubber band on 19 strand wire to clip into the offshore release? I'm thinking that the 19 strand will kink in either case whether you put it in the release itself or try to use a rubber band to clip in the release, hoping someone has already tried it.

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If using  the Offshore release with the pin place a sufficiently strong rubber band (this is something that often takes some experimentation with to determine) behind the pin and loop knot the other end to the wire. It shouldn't damage the 19 strand if the right strength rubber band is selected. You just want it to hold the setup and break when a fish hits. There are many different applications for rubber bands in fishing and in each case the strength of the band and amount of stretch should be right for that particular application (e.g. from downrigger release, on fixed sliders, or from boards etc.). If the band selected is the correct strength the wire shouldn't kink. I've even used bands in the past with seven strand from boards experimenting without damage, but again the correct rubber band strength  needs to be chosen. On my boards I don't want the thing to release as I take the boards off when reeling in the fish so a different set-up.

Edited by Sk8man

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I want to know how to attach 19 wire to an in-line planer board. I don’t want rubber bands breaking as I don’t want to lose the board. I’ve read ppl say they use rubber bands for this to work. But I don’t know how to attach the rubber bands to the wire and then attach to the planet board.

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I know that some folks may be running stuff this way with19 strand to weighted steel but why complicate things by running two components that are usually run by themselves (and are quite stiff etc.)? The additional depth can be achieved by applying snap weights near the junction of the backing and weighted steel with braid and still have the flexibility of the braid as the main line without the concerns of kinking (remove the weights on the way in)? The only concern with the braid is the possibility of cutting through a release  but this can be dealt with by wrapping the braid around the release a few times before clamping it. I also think braid would be less of a potential problem in rough water conditions

 

Edited by Sk8man

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The point of the 19 strand wire on weighted steel is the versatility of that setup. Steel with wire backing will keep sinking at the same rate. So 200ft steel plus 500ft of wire gives the ability to have a 200-700 copper setups on a single reel. 

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But with a dead fish at the other end by the time it comes in?:lol: You can achieve pretty good depth with a 300 and weights I guess I'll leave this one to you to figure out:smile: Good luck.

Edited by Sk8man

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I almost certainly would never use a 700ft setup but can see myself using 200, 250, 300, 350, 400 maybe even up to 500. Having all those setups on one reel saves me room in the boat and prolly close to $1000 in combos and copper I don’t have to buy.

 

by the time I let out 300 copper, clip on a weight to the backing and then let out enough backing to where the weight actually does something... how much line in the water am I actually saving between a 300 with a weight and a 400 without?

 

im sure I’m not the first guy to want to run a WS setup off an in-line planer. 

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I was kinda messing with you a bit, but I can understand your rationale as far as the amount of equipment and I plead guilty to all counts of having too much of it myself:smile:

 

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Raise your hand if the idea of clipping anything to wire backing (especially 19 stand) seems like a terrible idea.... Rubber bands or not this is a disaster waiting to happen.

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Sometimes you  have to let things play out for the results to take shape Rob:smile:

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3 hours ago, Legacy said:

Raise your hand if the idea of clipping anything to wire backing (especially 19 stand) seems like a terrible idea.... Rubber bands or not this is a disaster waiting to happen.


So the only option for a weighted steel setup to flat-line it? This is why I asked this question before I actually bought anything. Seems very versatile for the multiple depths it can reach but if the deployment methods are limited to just flat lining it off the side, than it's not the right stuff for me. Ill stick with copper that I know I can run off boards with no issues if that is the case.

Edited by FishingFool34

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Why not use 50# braid as backing and a SAMs pro release on the board? If you absolutely had to use 19strand as a backer simply segment in a short piece of braid to attach to the board.

 Otherwise see Websters abridged for "Wheel"

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If depth is your primary objective and you don't intend to run a whole bunch of other stuff out back with it use one of your downriggers and either braid or Sea Flee mono ( a lot of stretch though) as the backing. I've used coppers and leadcores plenty of times this way. You just have to set your release correctly and make sure your other stuff is compatibly selected and placed.

Edited by Sk8man

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On ‎2‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 7:56 AM, Fishmaster 196 said:

You are using inlines correct?  I have offshore boards with the or 18 release on the front but I'm sure the 19 strand will still slip through and kink even with the upgraded release.  So if I'm understanding correctly the wire backer is sitting just outside the release jaws and only the rubber band is being pinched?  Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

they will slip and chew up your pads. that's why I let all of mine out and clamp on the backer. I rarely run weighted steel off a plainer, I use it as a chute rod or tail gunner.

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3 hours ago, Songdog said:

Why not use 50# braid as backing and a SAMs pro release on the board? If you absolutely had to use 19strand as a backer simply segment in a short piece of braid to attach to the board.

 Otherwise see Websters abridged for "Wheel"


The reason for using wire as backing is that it maintains the same sink rate into the backing when using wire. So 200ft of weighted steel plus 100ft of wire backing sinks to the same depth as 300ft of weighted steel and so on. So with 200ft of WS and 500ft of wire backing you would have the ability to reach whatever depth 700ft of WS would be (way more than most people would ever need). If I backed with braid that setup would be good for one 1 certain depth, meaning I would need multiple setups for different depths. Even if I splice in braid/mono to attach the board to I'm essentially limiting the setup to a certain depth by the point I splice in line, not to mention adding in more failure points.

 

3 hours ago, Sk8man said:

If depth is your primary objective and you don't intend to run a whole bunch of other stuff out back with it use one of your downriggers and either braid or Sea Flee mono ( a lot of stretch though) as the backing. I've used coppers and leadcores plenty of times this way. You just have to set your release correctly and make sure your other stuff is compatibly selected and placed.

 

The reason I want to run it on boards is I'm limited in a smaller boat to how many lines I can get out. I normally run 2 riggers and 2 dipseys (occasionally 4 but I really don't like to). Then copper or LC off boards. I only have (2) 300 copper setups and couple different LC setups currently. I was looking into getting a 200 and 400 copper setups to add this year when I read about steel. I could have all 3 of the setups I want (plus more) on one reel with steel. In 2 steel setups i could cover all 6 of the combos I want and not have to buy 4 more rods/reels/copper. Which would save me well over $600.

Edited by FishingFool34

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The rationale is a valid one... trying to conserve space and money etc.. The practicality of operation of the idea may not be....try it and see what happens we may be wrong. But if it ends up a mess....it wasn't our fault:lol: I sincerely wish you good luck that is what experimentation is all about "swimming upstream against the current":smile:

Edited by Sk8man

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Does 19strand sink at the same rate as 45#Torpedo weighted steel? I'm going to punt on that. However Im in a seminar Sunday am with the owner of Torpedo products I'll try to get some clarity and pass that along.

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5 hours ago, Songdog said:

Does 19strand sink at the same rate as 45#Torpedo weighted steel? I'm going to punt on that. However Im in a seminar Sunday am with the owner of Torpedo products I'll try to get some clarity and pass that along.

I'm pretty sure this has been confirmed by other members here. It's not that the wire sinks the same as the steel it's that the wires small diameter allows the steel to continue to sink I believe. Ask him and how he recommends using this setup on planer boards, as I'm sure I'm not the only one wanting to know.

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