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horsehunter

Breaking down Dipsey Rods

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I am considering adding 10 or more probably adding 15 feet of 50 lb big game to my 7 strand Dipsey reels to allow me to wind all the wire onto the reel and brake down the rods for transit or storage. When I break down the rods now I end up somehow with a little curl even tho I am careful not to put a hard bend in the wire. This is a curl and not a kink but it scares me. What would be the best knot or connection for my purpose. I do have some tiny Spro swivels rated for 80 and I think 120 pounds that would easily go through the guides (hopefully without catching ) but they sure don't look as substantial as the ball bearing swivels I normally use on terminal ends.The other benefit I can see to this would be being able to clip the terminal end and switch the reel to a 7.5 or 8 foot rod when fishing alone without constantly clipping the wire.

Your thoughts please.

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Improved Albright, and I put a drop of super glue on mine just to make me feel better. I run slide divers. So all my wire rods have a 50' braid piece on them.

 

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12 minutes ago, whycanteye said:

Improved Albright, and I put a drop of super glue on mine just to make me feel better. I run slide divers. So all my wire rods have a 50' braid piece on them.

 

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How is that braid come flea season, and what pound test are you running? I was thinking of putting slide divers on my 8 foot med hvy muskie rods 80 pound Power Pro ( 20 lb dia ) and letting them do double duty until needed in September.

 

 

 

 

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I run 65# braid. When the fleas are bad I run all 50' out. Then the braid is horizontal in the water column and really you get a minimal amount on it. It will gather on your wire and stop at that Albright knot but you can get most to come off when that knot gets close to you're twillie tip.

 

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Wire to braid segment via improved/modified albright, then braid to mono.  Adding mono adds stretch to an otherwise unforgiving wire that does not stretch.  The no curly cue to the end of wire is an added bonus.  

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17 minutes ago, Gill-T said:

Wire to braid segment via improved/modified albright, then braid to mono.  Adding mono adds stretch to an otherwise unforgiving wire that does not stretch.  The no curly cue to the end of wire is an added bonus.  

Can you not just wire to mono and eliminate one knot also I'm thinking fleas on the braid.

What about using a small swivel

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1 hour ago, horsehunter said:

Can you not just wire to mono and eliminate one knot also I'm thinking fleas on the braid.

What about using a small swivel

you can, but having done it and faced the consequence of losing a couple diver setups, i switched to the small section of braid (80lb) and have never lost one since

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50 minutes ago, Puck5760 said:

you can, but having done it and faced the consequence of losing a couple diver setups, i switched to the small section of braid (80lb) and have never lost one since

So why would I even bother with the mono and not just run braid directly to the dipsey and run the snubber I have always run behind the dipsey I have bulk spools of both 80 and 100 pound power pro. I'm only trying to get all the wire on the reel for break down.

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I never run snubbers, only wire and 65lb braid. I run high speed #30 convectors, I keep them tight enough that they creep a little in surge, I usually end up with a 6-8' flouro leader 25# for spoons and 40lb for meat rigs or flys. If I have had a terminal failure it's always been a human error and not terminal tackle.

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Posted (edited)

No snubbers. My inside wire rods are 6 1/2 ft one piece roller rods. The outside wires are 8 1/2 ft two piece rods; one with twilli tip the other roller tip. For them i use a velcro boat rope strap for the butt, and a yellow coated wire rod securing item (comes in two sizes) for the upper rod half. To secure the wire itself I use a very small bungi cord from the line swivel to  a rod eyelet that adjusts the tension and keeps it from slipping. The items can be found at places like Walmart. The yellow velcro straps are in the boating section, the rod securing wires are  in the fishing section and the bungi's are in the automotive section.

wiresecure.jpg

Edited by Sk8man

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13 hours ago, horsehunter said:

So why would I even bother with the mono and not just run braid directly to the dipsey and run the snubber I have always run behind the dipsey I have bulk spools of both 80 and 100 pound power pro. I'm only trying to get all the wire on the reel for break down.

you can do that if you want to use a snubber.   I don't use snubbers.

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I don't use mono, snubbers or braid and  I don't take the divers or the leader off either- waste of time. Use a Velcro strap around the diver release lever and around the reel seat to hold diver in place. Next wind the diver leader around the reel. Hook a hair zingie to the leader swivel and secure leader by attaching hair zingie around the line counter or reel handle. Eazee peezee. This keeps tension on the line and eliminates kinks etc.

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1 hour ago, chowder said:

I don't use mono, snubbers or braid and  I don't take the divers or the leader off either- waste of time. Use a Velcro strap around the diver release lever and around the reel seat to hold diver in place. Next wind the diver leader around the reel. Hook a hair zingie to the leader swivel and secure leader by attaching hair zingie around the line counter or reel handle. Eazee peezee. This keeps tension on the line and eliminates kinks etc.

 

Doesn't sound like that's allowing me to break down rod . 10 foot rods don't fit my rod lockers or truck cab.

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I have a 15 foot piece of 50 lb mono tied in for this exact purpose works well no failers in that section so far I use an Albright knot replace mono every spring (it's cheap) and if needed throughout the season if that section get twisted with another line or something. Mono that thick will hold up in a knot to wire very well the weak point is usually further down the system in the leader from dipsey to lure

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