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7' rod for Copper


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Daiwa Heartlands would be my choice too. I ordered 2 of these for my 600 and 700 copper for the 2009 season:

Salmon Hot Shotting & Trolling

HL-SS 761HFB H F 7'6" 1 10 - 25 1/2 - 6 9

The dipsey rods that everyone uses are a H action rod, and this rod has the same action that they do. I haven't run it yet, as I just received my order last week, but I do look forward to running it. My reason for a shorter copper rod is b/c this is generally my "chute" copper rig. Therefore, I like to have a shorter rod for this so the distance between the tip of the rod, and where the line meets the water is the shortest I can get it. This serves two purposes.

1. That point where it hits the water is closer to the back of the boat for fish fighting purposes. You can control a fish when he is closer to the boat better than when he is 100' behind the boat. This makes it easy to go either over or under the copper rod that is out the back.

2. When you aren't running all 600' out there will be some copper out of the water. minimizing this will allow you to have to let less line out to achieve where you want to be. To have 300 out with a long rod might mean you really have 350 or 375 out, but on a shorter rod it could be 325.

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Thats what makes this board as good as it is. Hearing various opinions and ultimately making it of ones preference. I on the other hand like to use the 9' on my coppers running down the chute. I purchased the Ugly Stik from A-Tom-Mik and have nothing but good to say about them . The reason I like to run the longer rods is that it provides more clearance out the back in case of an outdown, or inside rigger rod takes a shot. The point of entry is further back. So I view that as a positive. I use the float to actually achieve greater distance for clearance, in case another rod does take a target. Tim B. had a writeup on the Pike float in this months G.L.A. mag. It really comes down to ones liking and preference. I just like knowing if and when, we take a target off another rod other than the copper, I have ample clearance to begin with esp. when a major hits. I feel the longer rod helps in acheiving this.- Duane

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I have been using the 9ft Ugly Sticks also and they work great for copper and lead core. It is nice when you are running copper down the chute to be able to stick the copper rod in a side rod holder when you have to and still have some seperation from the riggers. The rod looks like a tooth pick when you strap that reel on with 600 ft of copper :lol:

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While I was grocery shopping I picked up a pair of Ugly stik BWD 1100 7' at Wally World for $31.00 apiece, seems like a heck of a rod for the money, hopefully they will work out ok.

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  • 1 month later...

Okuma has a new rod just for copper. Large all metal guides and carboloy tip top(if you use swivels to attach leaders). 12-27lb. line which I would call a medium heavy action. They are 8.5 ft. long and I just picked up 2 for $80. Very nice rods specifically for copper.

http://www.fishusa.com/Okuma-Classic-Pr ... ods_p.html

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I also like using the longer (9' rod) down the chute for a couple reasons,one of which was already stated, the ability to get clearance when fighting fish on the other rods. there is a greater chance, percentage wise, that one of the other rods will take a fish based on numbers. 7:1. :yes: I do wish the rod would shrink to 7' when the fish does get to the boat :(

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  • 2 weeks later...
While I was grocery shopping I picked up a pair of Ugly stik BWD 1100 7' at Wally World for $31.00 apiece

LOL :rofl:

I use 7' Shimano TLD, Heavy action, not because I like them, but because I have them and they are cheap!! They do a good job tiring out the fishemen and then they just go to sleep or get hungry and start feeding me -- either way I win!! As for me personally -- I would never want to catch a fish on copper, in fact, the 2-3 times I pleasure fish in a year, I don't/won't run it.

CC

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