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  1. Past hour
  2. Tomb
    Thx my wife messaged him via Facebook and we are just waiting to hear back.
  3. sherman brown
    I have been using them for 30+ years and never calibrated 1 yet. I just spool the same amount of line on each reel getting them close to full. I use the counter to get me back to the same spot I want to fish. if I let out 150' of line and get a fish I want my lure back as close to that spot as I can get, I have found with some line counters it's best to zero them each time before letting out line. many times my counters were on a half number and did not work, so I wouldn't know how much line was out. but now I try to remember to just reset my counter making sure it's on all zeros.
  4. Today
  5. GAMBLER
    I really have trouble understanding why anyone would buy a reel that needs a drag upgrade new out of the box. I wouldn’t buy a new truck that needed a better transmission so it worked right. Buy quality reels to begin with and be done with it.
  6. fisherman21
    Rochester
  7. douglas
  8. Fronk
    I am currently restoring my tin can, I have a thread going if anyone is interested. Right now I am researching to find which epoxy is going to be the best for adhering my 3/4 marine plywood, and to seal the entire thing afterwards. Lots of info out there, but basically none of the products people talk about are available without ordering online. I'm trying to go out today and get the Wood and epoxy from hardware stores or local Boating stores. Living near Dunnville. This transom was rotted out, and the Aluminum back plate and interior insert were completely destroyed with pitting, corrosion, holes, pulled through bolts, etc. I had a local fabricator weld on a new 1/2 plate on the back and bend up a brand new insert. Next step is to get the wood cut up and sealed.
  9. Reaper85
    Location?
  10. Jglmuz
    Shipping available on buyers dime
  11. troubles
    ttt
  12. troubles
    ttt
  13. stinger
    Set your line counter to zero. Pull out the line until it reads say 20. Measure how much line is out. That should give you a good idea of THAT reel is doing. Keep in mind that a full spool will play out more line at 20 than a spool 3/4 full.
  14. Speedy
    I have a brand new 80 lb thrust 24 volt Minnkotta as my trolling motor. I need a electric start, electric trim 40 hp to get me across the large/medium size lakes with wind. So the 9.9 as the primary doesn't cut it. But thanks and ask around for one. Thanks, Tight Lines, Speedy
  15. ron vella
    Does anyone remember what The C-Map cartridges were called that were used in the Lowrance Maplink units that were used with the Lowrance Globalmap 2000 GPS units??? I let mine go with my boat when I sold it years ago. Now that I would like to get another one, for Western Lake Ontario, I do not remember the model number that I should be looking for.
  16. rolmops
    You may want to reconsider. Most trolling is done with small kickers in order to save on gas and because the 9.9 engines can run at very low speeds ( between 1.5 and 4 mph) Here it is quite common to have a 30 or 40 horse main engine to go places and then switch to the 9.9 for trolling.
  17. rolmops
    You should not expect the counter to give exact footage. They count the number of rotations, not feet. They are fine for going back to the same depth.
  18. BRsnow
    5 fish limit, largest king I believe just under 27. This is Wisconsin side 2024 Sheboygan Salmon Cup Day 1 Pro Division Results 1. Vendetta 2.0 94.46# 2. Mvp 93.22# 3. Rocks and Reels 90.92# 4. Karma III 73.66 5. Liquor Box 70.28 6. Fish Stik 68.94 7. Poseidon 62.50 8. Great Oz 59.62 9. Piss on money 51.92 10. Pure Chaos 51.78 11. Hell on Reels 51.24 12. Pennisula Pursuit 45.88 13. Grandpa VI 37.08 14. Outta Line 28.46 15. For Real? 18.74
  19. Yesterday
  20. J.D.
    I use Scotty downriggers, I just swing the boom up to get the weight closer to the boat..
  21. Fronk
    Hey everyone! I am posting to get some suggestions on my boat restoration project. I have owned this boat for 3 years now and we have been on many adventures together. Unfortunately, the transom is completely rotted out, and it has no storage of any kind other than the floor. I want to change that and renovate the entire thing. I want to build out a custom livewell, replace the transom, and add a bunch of storage compartments. I will finish it all off with new seats/floor/paint and some rod holders. Deconstruction/Demo So far I have managed to build an engine stand, remove the engine, remove the rotted Transom (in pieces), and Remove/Cut the Wood/Aluminium/Saturated foam from the seats for storage compartments and reinforcing for seats. It is unbelievable how heavy and wet the massive blocks of foam were. I had to cut them apart with a reciprocating saw, then pry/smash out everything. It came off the sides pretty easily. The Transom Troubles My transom was completely rotted out, and the Aluminum making up the back and inside of the boat are in really rough shape. Some of the nuts/bolts had pulled through from overtightening in the past by some other owner, and they put plates on to add some strength for the bolts to grab onto. The aluminum is also pitted and full of holes like you wouldnt believe. I think that my only option was to have a welding shop make up and install a new back plate and insert panel, which I had done this week. Next step is to build wood core from two sheets of 3/4 marine plywood and seal it with epoxy, then mount and drill holes for everything. Storage I am thinking that I want to build some compartments in every bench seat. It would be nice to stash the battery/fuel cell under the back bench opposite the driver, and also have a spot for lifejackets/tackle boxes and other misc stuff without them being on the floor. Im not sure which position will be ideal for everything yet because I still havent decided which seat I want to build the livewell under. I am leaning for the middle seat. If anyone has experience with these things and has any tips or tricks to offer, I am all ears! Livewell I am planning on building a custom livewell inside one of the benches. I will do this by framing it all up nicely, then I will find a plastic container that fits my dimensions perfectly (maybe build it to fit the bin lol). I will have an aerator setup and a pump for filling and draining. I wanted to pipe the fill/drain ports out of the back of the boat. I was thinking that the drivers side rear bench would be the ideal location because it would take minimal plumbing to get to the ports at the back of the boat, but I am not sure if it is a good idea to add that much weight into the back of the boat when it is filled with water. I already have my engine, myself, battery, and fuel cell back there. The middle seat is probably the ideal spot. It would allow for a much larger tank, and it would distribute the weight better. Only downfall is that I need to run piping to the back, which isnt that big of a deal. I would love to hear any suggestions/tips/tricks! Looking forward to talking to some of you about the project!
  22. PD Buoy

    for sale : usa 2000 Tiara 2900 Open Class

    PD Buoy replied to Josh Smith's topic in Boats for Sale

    X-2
  23. Reel Chaos
    Looking for a pair of 48” tracks to replace my 2 current 24” tracks let me know if have some available
  24. hookedupf7
    2 new trailer tires and rims . They were fit my other boat but never installed. Asking 225 for the pair . I am in central ny but am in Mexico often
  25. Andre wallyandre
    You will need the center fot a Yamaha and this the description : https://www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/product/tempestplusprop
  26. hookedupf7
    Sad to hear that . We wondering why I didn’t se his pads weren’t around anymore. I liked his better than the Amish ones.
  27. sherman brown
    it doesn't hurt to upgrade the drags to start with. if you leave the drag tight when it's stored the washers are fixed at the position so you have no more adjustment on the drag. you should back the drags all the way off and let them set for a few days and then check them. for future reference when you are done fishing for the trip always back the drags all the way off for storage. I don't intend to offend you but like said above the Magda pro reels are the bottom of the list. you really should think about an upgrade. even if you replace 1 or 2 at a time you will be much better off. a convertor 30 is much better or a Daiwa accudepth plus 47, or Daiwa sealine sg47lc3b are all better choices. I walleye fish in the central basin of Erie and use small reels. I used the old accudepth plus 17lc for years and never had one fail me. but upgraded part of them with the old sealine sg17lca which serves me well. I upgraded part of them with the sealine sglc3b. then when I lost a couple of the old LCA reels I upgraded them with the Okuma Coldwater 203 reels. I love the coldwater reels they are the smoothest of the lot and the drags are great. but I've only used them for 2 week long trips to Erie. so I haven't used them enough to recommend them without adding a little salt. 10 years or more down the road then I will be able to say for sure. new washers should cure your problem. but you will still be using Magda reels.
  28. Gill-T

    Lake Erie Bite 2024

    Gill-T replied to Gill-T's topic in Walleye

    Weird. Lake Ontario buoys are rockin’. Erie buoys and webcam at Sunset says fishable??? Must be wind aloft over Erie. Windy as hell at my house all day. My buddy tried to cheat the wind and drove to the bass islands and got skunked. He said he was not marking anything either. That tells me the fish are probably here.
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