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  2. I use Scotty downriggers, I just swing the boom up to get the weight closer to the boat..
  3. Hey everyone! I am posting to get some suggestions on my boat restoration project. I have owned this boat for 3 years now and we have been on many adventures together. Unfortunately, the transom is completely rotted out, and it has no storage of any kind other than the floor. I want to change that and renovate the entire thing. I want to build out a custom livewell, replace the transom, and add a bunch of storage compartments. I will finish it all off with new seats/floor/paint and some rod holders. Deconstruction/Demo So far I have managed to build an engine stand, remove the engine, remove the rotted Transom (in pieces), and Remove/Cut the Wood/Aluminium/Saturated foam from the seats for storage compartments and reinforcing for seats. It is unbelievable how heavy and wet the massive blocks of foam were. I had to cut them apart with a reciprocating saw, then pry/smash out everything. It came off the sides pretty easily. The Transom Troubles My transom was completely rotted out, and the Aluminum making up the back and inside of the boat are in really rough shape. Some of the nuts/bolts had pulled through from overtightening in the past by some other owner, and they put plates on to add some strength for the bolts to grab onto. The aluminum is also pitted and full of holes like you wouldnt believe. I think that my only option was to have a welding shop make up and install a new back plate and insert panel, which I had done this week. Next step is to build wood core from two sheets of 3/4 marine plywood and seal it with epoxy, then mount and drill holes for everything. Storage I am thinking that I want to build some compartments in every bench seat. It would be nice to stash the battery/fuel cell under the back bench opposite the driver, and also have a spot for lifejackets/tackle boxes and other misc stuff without them being on the floor. Im not sure which position will be ideal for everything yet because I still havent decided which seat I want to build the livewell under. I am leaning for the middle seat. If anyone has experience with these things and has any tips or tricks to offer, I am all ears! Livewell I am planning on building a custom livewell inside one of the benches. I will do this by framing it all up nicely, then I will find a plastic container that fits my dimensions perfectly (maybe build it to fit the bin lol). I will have an aerator setup and a pump for filling and draining. I wanted to pipe the fill/drain ports out of the back of the boat. I was thinking that the drivers side rear bench would be the ideal location because it would take minimal plumbing to get to the ports at the back of the boat, but I am not sure if it is a good idea to add that much weight into the back of the boat when it is filled with water. I already have my engine, myself, battery, and fuel cell back there. The middle seat is probably the ideal spot. It would allow for a much larger tank, and it would distribute the weight better. Only downfall is that I need to run piping to the back, which isnt that big of a deal. I would love to hear any suggestions/tips/tricks! Looking forward to talking to some of you about the project!
  4. Looking for a pair of 48” tracks to replace my 2 current 24” tracks let me know if have some available
  5. 2 new trailer tires and rims . They were fit my other boat but never installed. Asking 225 for the pair . I am in central ny but am in Mexico often
  6. You will need the center fot a Yamaha and this the description : https://www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/product/tempestplusprop
  7. Sad to hear that . We wondering why I didn’t se his pads weren’t around anymore. I liked his better than the Amish ones.
  8. it doesn't hurt to upgrade the drags to start with. if you leave the drag tight when it's stored the washers are fixed at the position so you have no more adjustment on the drag. you should back the drags all the way off and let them set for a few days and then check them. for future reference when you are done fishing for the trip always back the drags all the way off for storage. I don't intend to offend you but like said above the Magda pro reels are the bottom of the list. you really should think about an upgrade. even if you replace 1 or 2 at a time you will be much better off. a convertor 30 is much better or a Daiwa accudepth plus 47, or Daiwa sealine sg47lc3b are all better choices. I walleye fish in the central basin of Erie and use small reels. I used the old accudepth plus 17lc for years and never had one fail me. but upgraded part of them with the old sealine sg17lca which serves me well. I upgraded part of them with the sealine sglc3b. then when I lost a couple of the old LCA reels I upgraded them with the Okuma Coldwater 203 reels. I love the coldwater reels they are the smoothest of the lot and the drags are great. but I've only used them for 2 week long trips to Erie. so I haven't used them enough to recommend them without adding a little salt. 10 years or more down the road then I will be able to say for sure. new washers should cure your problem. but you will still be using Magda reels.
  9. Weird. Lake Ontario buoys are rockin’. Erie buoys and webcam at Sunset says fishable??? Must be wind aloft over Erie. Windy as hell at my house all day. My buddy tried to cheat the wind and drove to the bass islands and got skunked. He said he was not marking anything either. That tells me the fish are probably here.
  10. you should have been able to tighten it enough that it wouldn't slip when turning. I have a Mercruiser outdrive to a 9.9 4-stroke Merc. and it steers great. I have my kicker mounted on a Panther tilt the only time it slips is when I tilt my kicker. and when I told the kicker down I have to turn my outdrive all the way over to correct the bar. I have a short bar for an outboard to outboard but it would be too short for an outdrive. I believe my bar is 39" closed and centered it just fits my kicker but my kicker bracket is turned slightly so it's centered with the outdrive.
  11. they are the best you're going to find and they have more clearance than any others I've seen. I use them on my cannon riggers and the beads do get hung up at times. if I was still using the stops on mine I would try to use a end roller for a cannon rigger rigged in a way to retrieve my cable and still let the bead go through smoothly. but this is just 1 person's opinion.
  12. how much and what does it fit? i have a yamaha fx 200 out board..
  13. $100 each oval base for track mounting shipping included lower 48
  14. I'll check the next time I go down to the pole barn. and I can check the pitch I am using now which is working great. I believe it's a 15p but could be 13. but your 14p should be fine.
  15. $1350 x 2 = $2700 includes shipping lower 48 paypal
  16. Ron I have a global map 3600C igps would that help ?
  17. Or whatever you catch fish successfully, I’ve tried 2 riggers , because it’s easier Solo, but I catch more Salmon my way….
  18. Larry Kuitems, look for him on facebook
  19. counters are designed to show the amount of line let out.....will be most accurate if the reel is full of line
  20. This may seem ridiculous but I would like an answer. Never had a line counter reel before. Can I load my new line counter reel with more than 100 feet of line and still have the line counter show only the amount of line that has left the reel? For example , if my reel is loaded with 200 feet of line can it still show on the line counter only the 20 feet that I have released. Can my reel be loaded up with 200 feet with the line counter set to zero? Hope this all makes sense. jim
  21. Up to 60 FOW, chute rigger and two braid slide divers. Any deeper, I switch the braid slide divers to wire slide divers. I do this for browns and kings.
  22. When fishing alone for browns, I run my chute rigger and two braid slide divers. If the browns are deeper than 60’ I switch the braid sliders to wire sliders.
  23. Yesterday
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