rolmops

I just decided to stay on the Finger Lakes for now and have a successful season . When the kings come, I'll come back to Lake Ontario.

I have double keel otterboats with the second keel only half the weight. A full keel makes the otterboat sink when it lays still in the water. A second keel without weight will give extra pull, but it is less stable and it tends to hang over a bit, specially when the second one is on the outside. You cannot buy half keels in a store. You have to order them from Big Jon.

The remote control box that I currently have on this boat is an old Quicksilver Commander2000 that never really fit and always had some sort of trouble. Now after having installed a professionally rebuilt engine and a brand new kicker I want to also have a nice looking remote control box with tilt and trim. I mean the type that has the box behind the trim and just the cover plate and handle showing. Does anybody know what the right box would be? If you do, please tell me. Thank you, Cornelis.

The Luhr-Jensons came out looking new.

Being stuck at home because of family reasons I decided to do the experiment. For now all my Luhr-Jensen flasher/dodgers are being cleaned in the dish washer and next will be the spoons. Did anybody do this and what were the results, specially with the stick-on eyes and/or glue on strips? Thank you for your opinions and shared experiences.

Me thinks that the gentleman doesn’t care much about method or legality and with Saiff as captain the daily limit is probably very flexible .

You should start with an aluminum self etching primer. It is usually grey or green. Next pick a color that you like but consider the hot sun and how much it can heat up a metal floor. My suggestion would be a light grey or other pastel. All of this can be done with spray paint. I personally like the Rustoleum spray paints. The cleanest way to do it, is by cutting your floor to the right fit and drilling slightly oversized holes holes because aluminum will expand and contract, lay it in the boat and make sure that it fits. Next take the floor out and spray paint the self etching primer on both sides and let it dry. (30 minutes tops ) Then spray the final color on (2 layers). It is best to make sure that the aluminum that you use is the same grade as the rest of the boat, just so the parts are equally noble and neither will corrode by electrolysis. Also you should use a bit of M5200 in every screw hole and use stainless screws only. The nonslip part is easy. You can buy a can of non slip material that you sprinkle lightly over the the first layer of paint while it is wet. Another way is using truckbed liner, after you have used the self etching primer. Oops, I forgot to mention that you must check the flotation material to see if it is dry or saturated. Personally I would continue using wood, but that too has its pros and cons.

I used the I-Bay launch today. All the floating docks are in and there is a great courtesy dock with room for maybe ten rigs. The launch itself worries me. Specially the center one. (there are three launches). Backing down that launch you had better go straight and know what you are doing. It is narrow with walls on either side. There will be plenty of cars getting dented and scraped up this summer. I can foresee a lot of upset people with damaged vehicles because of a launch that was designed by a non boater.

I did the same to my mercruiser a few years ago and I never looked back. I installed the Delco Voyager EST Kit. On this setup there is a plug in wire that goes out from the bottom of the distributor to the interruptor. maybe yours has a similar option.

Did you see anybody negotiate that sharp left turn at the end of the entrance way? It really looks very tight.

Is your boat called the " Echo chamber"?

3M Product #847

A catering operation is just not the thing, but if a charter boat would have a container of hot coffee,like the ones you can get at dunking donuts, to start the trip, that would be a success. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United