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1lastweekend

Rigger release, FishHawk and weight setup- need some advice

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I really like the performance of Chamberlain releases, and decided to try a couple inline with my riggers this year.  On the port side I have to incorporate my FishHawk probe, and the pic below is what I think I will try.  But I am concerned the wire clip on the Chamberlain could be the weak link.  Anyone else run a setup like this, and how do you rig it if you do?

image0.thumb.jpeg.c086404491fb49dc13d8d673f913a34f.jpeg

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I would want a lighter sacrificial cable from the probe to the ball. 12"-18" long. (we usually run 80 lb) If something happens it's a lot cheaper to replace just the ball and save the probe.

 

Edited by spoonfed-1
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I would want a lighter sacrificial cable from the probe to the ball. 12"-18" long. (we usually run 80 lb) If something happens it's a lot cheaper to replace just the ball and save the probe.
 
I'm pretty sure that is the breakaway in the picture that comes as part of the fish hawk system.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

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Fish Hawk has a 70lb break away cable. 

This goes between the probe & the weight.

I keep a spare on the boat incase any signs of fray or deterioration.

1575302518_ScreenShot2020-01-26at7_07_08PM.thumb.png.3add699d1ccfe6968bc726522e7b8434.png

Edited by Rookie Fisherman
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Rookie is right. I'd get that breakaway cable pictured. None of the cable connections are a guarantee if for example you get hung up on something but much cheaper to replace a weight than the probe. I think a potential weak link may be the Chamberlain connection. Why not secure the probe to the main downrigger connection (assuming it is secure) and use a stacker version Chamberlain above the main downrigger snap? It would eliminate one possible weak link in the system. Then attach the Fishhawk standard breakaway cable to the main snap with the probe and then the weight. I think it may be a bit safer. Anytime you can eliminate a connection point you eliminate one potential failure point:smile:

Edited by Sk8man
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4 minutes ago, whycanteye said:

https://fishhawkelectronics.com/shop/accessories/breakaway-double-snap-swivel-2-per-pack/

Like said the pictured snap swivels are part of the fishhawk accessories with an 80lb split ring break away as part of their factory recommended set up.

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Got it. Never saw one.

 

Edited by spoonfed-1

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I've never had a thimble fail but I have had barrel swivels fail more than once so that is my rationale for what I suggested which is the way i set my own up

Edited by Sk8man
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Either breakaway system from Fish Hawk or a well made do it yourself cable will work fine. As spoonfed originally said the idea here is a sacrificial cable between the probe and the weight. Much rather loose a weight than a probe. Although with the heavier Shark weights at close to $100 now loosing one of those would sucks too. 

 

 

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This setup has never been tested (thank God) but on my probe rigger I have a "safety" line also hooked to the probe itself in the event of a failure of the main connection point. I use an older version of the Black release that is attached right on the wire and a 90 lb wire with heavy duty swivel attached to the middle of the release which is 150 lb rigger cable and I attach both swivels to the probe. In the event of failure of the main connection theoretically the probe by itself would still be attached by the "safety wire". There is a crimp in the middle of the Black to prevent it from sliding down.

oldschool.jpg

Edited by Sk8man
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Don,

If it breaks at the crimp near the swivel snap (snap which is rated for about 200 plus pounds) the safety wire (90 lb ss wire) should still hold it if the crimp in the middle of the release prevents the Black release from sliding down (hopefully). The Fishhawk break away cable is designed to prevent loss of the probe by sacrificing the weight alone but this is presuming the main cable doesn't break. The setup above is in addition to the break away cable (not pictured). The Fishhawk breakaway cable attaches to the main swivel snap pictured above and the snap of the safety wire also snaps on the probe along with the main snap so both attach in the same hole to the top of the probe. As I mentioned it hasn't been tested but I have seen a couple of the probes deep sixed on other boats so I figured it was worth the $300 for a new probe to try something different.

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I think I asked this exact same question here when I first got my probe setup. Seemed scary to have a $300 probe hanging off a $10 blacks release. But 3 years later I have not had any issues (knock on wood). 

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Thanks all for the great feedback.  I think I will just try a Chamberlain stacker on the port side rigger to remove 1 variable from the equation...But its good to know my original setup would work as well.

 

Mike

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I really like the performance of Chamberlain releases, and decided to try a couple inline with my riggers this year.  On the port side I have to incorporate my FishHawk probe, and the pic below is what I think I will try.  But I am concerned the wire clip on the Chamberlain could be the weak link.  Anyone else run a setup like this, and how do you rig it if you do?
image0.thumb.jpeg.c086404491fb49dc13d8d673f913a34f.jpeg


I originally did mine the same way until Chamberlain came out with their other release . I hook my FishHawk directly to my Downrigger cable clip, then I put the Chamberlain slide release above the fish hawk at the desired height that I want



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I use snubbers. I have the new mag 10s I feel like it helps absorb a lot especially with the sudden stops. Also I stated this another post... I have different reading with in line release with my fish hawk. Sometimes it’s pretty significant. It’s always different when rigged and unrigged.


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I have chamberlains and love them. That being said last year I had the wire that runs through the Chamberlain break and lost a new 16 pound shark weight. Luckily it was on the rigger that did not have my probe on it. I have been using them for 4 years now and that is the only issue I have had with them. I have since cut the wire that runs through the Chamberlain and now run the downtigger cable though the release and then to a Cannon terminator. I have a Scotty rubber stop above the chamberlain to keep it from riding up the downrigger cable.

Last year I bought snubbers for my cannon 10 Stx riggers and wish I had bought them sooner. They really help with the sudden stop and bounce of the balls when its wavy.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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1 hour ago, Fishmaster 196 said:

I have chamberlains and love them. That being said last year I had the wire that runs through the Chamberlain break and lost a new 16 pound shark weight. Luckily it was on the rigger that did not have my probe on it. I have been using them for 4 years now and that is the only issue I have had with them. I have since cut the wire that runs through the Chamberlain and now run the downtigger cable though the release and then to a Cannon terminator. I have a Scotty rubber stop above the chamberlain to keep it from riding up the downrigger cable.

Last year I bought snubbers for my cannon 10 Stx riggers and wish I had bought them sooner. They really help with the sudden stop and bounce of the balls when its wavy.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

That's a great idea, clipping the wire and running the DR cable through the space where the wire was...Thanks!  I may try that with a rubber stop above the terminal end as you did...

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That is the way most of the connections were done originally with most releases (e.g. back to the seventies for me)

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I am interested in getting snubbers. Were do I get them. Brand and part number please.

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32 minutes ago, Earl28 said:

I am interested in getting snubbers. Were do I get them. Brand and part number please.

Hey Earl

Both Amish outfitters and Scotty have down rigger snubbers. 

 

https://amishoutfitters.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=52

 

http://scotty.com/product/no-370-trolling-snubber-w-sampo-ball-bearing-swivel/

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Here's what I came up with, bought a Cannon terminal end kit, and clipped off the wire from the Chamberlain then threaded the rigger wire through the hole in the Chamberlain.  One less variable...

image0 (1).jpeg

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3 minutes ago, 1lastweekend said:

Here's what I came up with, bought a Cannon terminal end kit, and clipped off the wire from the Chamberlain then threaded the rigger wire through the hole in the Chamberlain.  One less variable...

image0 (1).jpeg

 

Looks good.

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