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180 Angler advice


Low Baller

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Starting to read up and search for components and advice on setting up for trolling.  Watching the classifieds for good used riggers etc. Have a fish hawk from other boat. Want to covert to 2 battery system. Need a little input on proper mounting. Also keeping an eye out for good used kicker and bracket. 9.9 would probably be sufficient. Boat isn't huge. Any input is appreciated. 

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9.9hp would be plenty big for that size boat.

 

If you are adding a kicker and re-working your batteries, I would suggest finding a way to put the two batteries on the opposite side of the boat  as the kicker to counter balance the weight of the new motor. I have two starting batteries on the port side with my kicker on the starboard side and my boat still leans to the starboard side quite a bit. 

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a 9.9 should be great as we use a 9.9 big foot on our 26' boat. i use mercury on mine but i guess any of the top brands would work. i have a 02 mercury 9.9 tiller with the start button on the tiller that's a great looking and great starting with electric starting and running motor, and she runs awesome for sale for 1600.00 that'll knock your socks off. but i would guess you live too far away to make the trip to pick it up.

 

as for the batteries you need to get an isolator to control which battery is getting charged when it has the lowest charge. this switch is automatic and keeps both batteries charged. there is another switch that does this but for the life of me i can't remember what it's called. and if possible, you should put the kicker mount on the opposite side of the boat to balance the extra weight. but the 9.9 4 stroke merc only weighs a little over 100# dry.

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42 minutes ago, sherman brown said:

a 9.9 should be great as we use a 9.9 big foot on our 26' boat. i use mercury on mine but i guess any of the top brands would work. i have a 02 mercury 9.9 tiller with the start button on the tiller that's a great looking and great starting with electric starting and running motor, and she runs awesome for sale for 1600.00 that'll knock your socks off. but i would guess you live too far away to make the trip to pick it up.

 

as for the batteries you need to get an isolator to control which battery is getting charged when it has the lowest charge. this switch is automatic and keeps both batteries charged. there is another switch that does this but for the life of me i can't remember what it's called. and if possible, you should put the kicker mount on the opposite side of the boat to balance the extra weight. but the 9.9 4 stroke merc only weighs a little over 100# dry.

Send me a pm, I'll be fishing Mexico labor day weekend. Thanks 

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Trailer's squared away. Leaf springs, bearings, tires. Captain chairs and pedestals ordered. Any recommendations on restoring faded jell coat. Picking up a buffer with wool pad for compound. Are all marine products the same. 3m was recommended to me. Also when switching to dual battery, can I run down riggers with other auxiliaries, or do they need their own battery?

Thanks, Clark 

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I can’t recommend bearing buddies enough.  After having a bearing blow on the road a few years ago I top them off every spring and again late summer.  Depending on your graph draw you may want to run a separate battery for your riggers.  If you were able to run it all day before on one battery you should be fine but with my Hummingbird Helix it pushes my battery to the limit after 6 hours even if I troll with my main motor for a while to give it charge.  I run 3 batteries with 1 just for my electric trolling motor.  That’s my 2cents anyway.

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Also with your 90hp you shouldn’t need trolling bags.  My boat is a 17.6’ with a 115 merc 2 stroke and it trolls down to 2.0-2.1 at the slowest which isn’t always great for walleyes but just fine for Lake O.

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I'm looking at Cannon mag 10 ts electric and gimbal mounts. Have unitrol hand cranks with swivel mounts on old boat. I'm assuming the white down riggers are salt rated? I fish both as a weekend warrior,, so any gear won't see a ton of use. Trying to be cost effective. 

Also I could use the other forward rod holder with another adjustable gimbal mount for dipsy.  I know I could just Google, but I like hands on experience.  Thoughts? 

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Clarke I have a similar situation on my Whaler with the inset rod holders. I have rigged mine so I have an option of running either 4 riggers or two riggers and up to three divers or other rods per side. These are all on Cannon gimbel mounts and the side rod holders are on Cannon tracks. The forward rigger holders can be used for inline boards as well when not running them as riggers

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Edited by Sk8man
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Perfect. I'll only use 2 riggers, 2 dipseys, maybe copper down the shuttle. Have otterboats and a dbl reel single mast if needed. Boat isn't that big lol. Thanks for chiming in Less. I look forward to hearing from you every year.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@Low BallerIf you still want info on a 2 battery system I can send you a pic of my wiring diagram. I researched the heck out of it and it was a pain in the ass to fully sort out.  I'm 4 seasons into using it and all seems well.  I have a 2 battery system with ON/OFF/ALL switch.  ACR (Automatic Charging Relay).  I run 2 DRs, fishhawk, house power, radio etc.  My 9.9 has is a T model Yamaha so it has a good alternator for charging. I have the main going to one battery, the 9.9 going to the other and the ACR balances the charging of the 2.    To your question on DRs and other stuff.  I have one DR on each battery and no interference that I can identify with DR use.   I also have a few pics.  When you have this much stuff I found that using a buss bar is better than gang piling too many things on the battery terminals.  Even then I still added a lug for the post of the battery so I could use the screwed post and the other one.  My interconnect wires are large and sealed at the ends and all connection terminals were sprayed with battery terminal connector spray.  

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16 minutes ago, tuffishooker said:

I went with a 9.9 Yamaha kicker on my 16 ft. Starcraft ; probably the best investment I have made on that boat !

I'm chewing on it, trying to way cost versus function. I don't get up to the O but for late season. I'm itching to be able to fish July. I fish Cayuga occasionally, and am only 2 hrs from upper Chesapeake. Building an around fishing machine with comfort for wife and play for grandkids. If I find a good used one, I'll probably jump. Thanks 

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40 minutes ago, Fat Trout said:

@Low BallerIf you still want info on a 2 battery system I can send you a pic of my wiring diagram. I researched the heck out of it and it was a pain in the ass to fully sort out.  I'm 4 seasons into using it and all seems well.  I have a 2 battery system with ON/OFF/ALL switch.  ACR (Automatic Charging Relay).  I run 2 DRs, fishhawk, house power, radio etc.  My 9.9 has is a T model Yamaha so it has a good alternator for charging. I have the main going to one battery, the 9.9 going to the other and the ACR balances the charging of the 2.    To your question on DRs and other stuff.  I have one DR on each battery and no interference that I can identify with DR use.   I also have a few pics.  When you have this much stuff I found that using a buss bar is better than gang piling too many things on the battery terminals.  Even then I still added a lug for the post of the battery so I could use the screwed post and the other one.  My interconnect wires are large and sealed at the ends and all connection terminals were sprayed with battery terminal connector spray.  

Please do buddy. Appreciate it 

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Progress report.  She buffed out about as far as my arms can take it. Is there a secret sauce to remove stains from non skid deck? I've tried everything I can think of. Used all of the marine products, 3m pads, buffer heavy cut compound, thinner, you name it. Also upon inspecting the inner hull, it holds moisture in the bow. Was thinking of a built in blower for ventilation. Or maybe an access hatch to put a small fan in. If I can get it dry can I flex seal the fiberglass or will that create problems? Thoughts? 

Thanks again. 

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Clark the Flexseal is generally garbage and turns yellow when exposed to UV sunlight for extended periods. Try some Starbright Hull Cleaner on stains and oxidation and you might also try the Black Streak Remover. I often use something called Tuff Stuff in spray can for non-skid deck stuff. All can usually be found in places like Walmart etc.

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41 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

Clark the Flexseal is generally garbage and turns yellow when exposed to UV sunlight for extended periods. Try some Starbright Hull Cleaner on stains and oxidation and you might also try the Black Streak Remover. I often use something called Tuff Stuff in spray can for non-skid deck stuff. All can usually be found in places like Walmart etc.

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Lol, yes, did that. Guess after 20 yrs it'll have to do. I don't think this thing has seen wax for a decade. Severely oxidized. As far as the flex seal, I was referring to the inside of the hull where the fiberglass matting is exposed. Should have bought aluminum. 😪 oh well, she'll work fine. Last build for me. 

Thanks Less.

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Try the Starbrite or Attwood Cleaner/Wax on the oxidation.

Edited by Sk8man
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The starbrite product line has worked well for me from the textured deck cleaner to the fabric mold and stain remover for the vinyl.  I had to use a magic eraser for a couple of scuffs though that nothing else would touch.

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I went through 4 magic boat erasers. They worked great. Finished up the buffing this evening. Had to buff the deck out too. Really sucked. I followed up with the starbrite and a clean microfiber to get the build up out of the nonskid surface. Looks about as good as its going to. I'm just anal lol. 

Another question for you folk. Can I use a lithium battery for 2nd (house) for downriggers and deck lights. I bought 2 last year for the Misty, 1 med and 1 large for the trolling motor. Major investment, but it took 50lbs off the boat. Still using lead acid for crank and factory accessories. Thanks 

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